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waiting for the tow truck

dburd72

Member
138
5
18
Location
Westtown NY
All Gm dealers were sent timesert kits as a required tool see if one will install the proper size cheaper then the kit Just a thought Good luck
 

watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
Alreadyordered the kit. By the time I paid to have it towed up there, and their hourly rate to do the job it would be much more than the kit. At least this way I will have the kit on hand when someone here needs it.
 

choll

Member
387
5
18
Location
Las Vegas,NV
Glad to hear you are working on it again!!!!!!!!!! The one that I have been working on for a year for my wife is almost finished. The front bearings are getting hot so I have to have them replaced. Taking it back to the place that did the front end work when they aligned it the steering wheel is upside down. Noticed it when I pick it up but it was a weekend and no one was around and my ride just dropped me off snd left. I travel alot for work the last year so I dont get much time to work on it.
 

watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
Starter is in, truck starts, everything is exactly as it was before I replaced the injection pump. At idle, white smoke (and some black), high rpm's no smoke, but when you punch it lots of black smoke. Hard starting, have to keep the starter turning while it's trying to start for several seconds. Dies when put in gear unless you give it a lot of throttle.

Any ideas before I scrap this thing?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,192
1,647
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Head gasket? Pull your radiator cap while the engine is running. Does it seem to have pressure coming out with the coolant cold? Are you using coolant? White smoke after start up is normally a sign of coolant in the combustion chamber. Of course, a real bad one will leave a white cloud. Yours souds very minor. Try and do a pressure test on the cooling system and see if it holds.

If you do scrap it, how much you want for it?
 

watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
Head gasket? Pull your radiator cap while the engine is running. Does it seem to have pressure coming out with the coolant cold? Are you using coolant? White smoke after start up is normally a sign of coolant in the combustion chamber. Of course, a real bad one will leave a white cloud. Yours souds very minor. Try and do a pressure test on the cooling system and see if it holds.

If you do scrap it, how much you want for it?
cooling system seems to be fine, no oil in the radiator. White smoke tends to be air in the lines, but i've gone through all that. and don't have any leaks.

Haven't decided what to ask for it. It's got two new batteries, new injection pump, transmission looks to be new, the alternators look to be new, the starter is new (by new I mean recently rebuilt). Stock except for a tilt wheel. Tires are decent. No rust out. I wish I could make it work, I've wanted one for a long time, but this has me stumped.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
My 1008 smokes white on initial startup when it's cold, white smoke in a diesel can be unburnt fuel.

Did you make sure that the timing on the IP is correct? Can you get a compression test done on it?

It really sounds to me like the injection timing is off. Have you tried loosening the three bolts holding the IP to the engine and rotating it a little in each direction to see if it changes the problem?

Later,
Joe
 

watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
My 1008 smokes white on initial startup when it's cold, white smoke in a diesel can be unburnt fuel.

Did you make sure that the timing on the IP is correct? Can you get a compression test done on it?

It really sounds to me like the injection timing is off. Have you tried loosening the three bolts holding the IP to the engine and rotating it a little in each direction to see if it changes the problem?

Later,
Joe
Yeah, the timing mark on the pump lines up. I just put a new pump it in, and the problem didn't change at all.

I don't have a diesel compression tester. Wish I did.
 
I wish you lived closer to me 'cause I would definitely help you fix that thing or Frick it up so bad it could never be fixed! Anyway, I feel your pain there buddy. Seems like no matter what you do for it, like some ex-wives, and the fact anything with breasts or wheels causes headaches, all it does is find something else for you to do for it.
That being said, what could be the root of the problem? I was betting on bad fuel, and I know you mentioned draining the tank and refilling it, but I did not see where you actually did that, and amazingly, I have battled off my severe ADD and read each and every post on this whole thread due to the fact someone else has evidently found some of my luck that I evidently misplaced somewhere in Texas.
If you have replaced that old fuel with fresh diesel, my next bet would be the lift pump. I saw where you had also mentioned that, but if I followed correctly, it seems you did not replace the lift pump because you found slight improvement with a new fuel filter. If you did indeed replace the lift pump, then my next guess would be air pressure not correct in you front passenger-side tire... in other words, I am stumped - for now.
Don't give up. It's not the kill, it's the thrill of the chase (Rainbow) for you, the music writer-abouter.
One thing I would like to mention regarding starter fluid: a diesel mechanic once told me to use Rosanol lighter fluid if you need to use something because it is wetter than starting fluid, and you should only use a small squirt each time. I also have a suburban with a 6.2 that had sheared a starter bolt and was missing the bracket. I went to Fastenal and purchased some 1/2" (I think - the next size up anyway in standard from the factory bolts) and helicoiled the new holes I drilled into the block, and knock on wood, have not had any problems with the starter since. Locktite or Threadlocker is also a must on both your starter bolts and flexplate bolts. I would also recommend replacing your starter relay ASAP with the Doghead modification since you don't want your starter to keeping turning over after you let off the key, which is exactly what will happen when that cheapo factory relay that is actually made for a heater motor messes up on you.
So anyway, did you replace the old fuel with fresh diesel, and did you put in a new lift pump?
 
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watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
Thanks akonitony. Yeah, replaced the lift pump, drained the fuel tank and put in fresh fuel (burned the 10 gallons I drained out of it in my old beater mercedes diesel.) I'll check the tire pressure tomorrow...lol.

I wound up going with the bigsert inserts. and now the start seams to be holding.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
I know you replaced the pump... I've been following along for a while now... LOL

I would try rotating the pump off the marks to see if it helps anything to make sure it's not the timing and the marks are wrong or something. Move it about a quarter inch off the marks in one direction then see how it runs, then a quarter to the other side and see how it runs.

Outside of that, the timing chain might be shot and causing the timing to be sloppy, but that's a longshot unless the engine/truck has high miles on it.

One thing that is also indicating to me that it might be timing is that the TMs all say check timing for the symptoms you are describing.

Later,
Joe
 
Gotta be the tire pressure! If it were not wanting to idle, but otherwise ran fine, I would say it was the driver's side, but...
You might want to see if you can find a nice 6.2 on GL. I got one out of Redstone a while back for $150, but haven't gotten around to tesing it out or anything. Seems like the lack of rust and a new transmission would make it worthwhile to put another engine in her. One other thing I was going to mention, as one of my previous lives I was a transmission mechanic, is to never force a trans into place. The last thing I test for once I have reinstalled an automatic is to make sure the torque converter turns nice and freely by hand and nothing is binding before I start tightening bellhousing bolts. Saved a unit more than once by finding a problem with the alignment before breaking the oil pump into many small pieces because the torque converter was misaligned. Just another little pearl of wisdom... and if I think of anything it might be, I'll be sure to mention it.
It is a machine, and not a hugely complicated one at that, so there has to be a way to make it alive once again. I am still pretty sure it is in the fuel system. You might want to drop the tank and look inside of it. Not sure how you went about with draining it, but I know one time a friend's car was experiencing similar symptoms, and it turned out someone had placed a little paper bag in her tank and it got wrapped around the intake, and ran like crap until we finally dropped the tank to put in a new fuel pump, and ended up taking the pump back for a refund since the removal of said bag made everything nice and happy once again. These trucks are generally pretty dirty on the outside, and I am willing to bet if you drop the tank, remove the top of it, and take a gander down into it, you might find something nasty plugging up your intake.
 
I know you replaced the pump... I've been following along for a while now... LOL

I would try rotating the pump off the marks to see if it helps anything to make sure it's not the timing and the marks are wrong or something. Move it about a quarter inch off the marks in one direction then see how it runs, then a quarter to the other side and see how it runs.

Outside of that, the timing chain might be shot and causing the timing to be sloppy, but that's a longshot unless the engine/truck has high miles on it.

One thing that is also indicating to me that it might be timing is that the TMs all say check timing for the symptoms you are describing.

Later,
Joe
Not a bad idea on the chain either. I replaced one on one of my M1008s that had under 40k on the odometer, but was more than likely under 140k, and found the engine ran noticeably better even though it had not jumped timing, but was just loose with the previous chain.
 
One more reply, and I am off to la-la land since I took my Ambien a few minutes ago.
Here is your "encouragement" post: Keep up the work and it will eventually pay off, especially once you do find the problem and get her running right. I drive one of my M1009s more than any other truck I have - even more than my '06 2500HD silverado, mainly because it is so much fun to drive, and like you, I had been wanting one for many years.
Here's some bonus encouragement: 10 years from now, you'll look back on today and laugh.rofl
 

watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
I'm thinking it's more like 10 years from now I'll remember this and curl up int he fetal position and cry like a little girl.

It doesn't look like it has high milage...which I know doesn't really mean anything. It has a date stenciled on the oil pan, and the oil pan and the rest of the engine look like it was rebuilt a few years ago...again, doesn't neccesarily mean anything,.

At this point, I've got to find the magic bullet, or I've got to ebay it. work has been exceedingly slow (lots of that going around), and with my wifes car dead, and my old benz acting up I've got to get it this thing running as at least a backup or sell it for enough to get a bus pass or something. No money left for anything major like an engine rebuild or replace. If this doesnt work out, I'll get another one some day.

I'll give the timing thing a shot, maybe sacrifice a chicken or something on the hood. I appreciate the help everyone has given me here. May just not be in the cards.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I don't have a diesel compression tester. Wish I did.
They have them at Harbor Freight for $26 with the 10mm 1.25 adapter for the glow plug hole. If you have a 20% coupon from a magazine like Popular Mechanic that saves you even more. The item number is 93644 and does not list the 6.2/6.5, but the more expensive one with injector adapters 46800 does as the glow plug adapter. So comparing the two, the $26 one should work as it has the 10mm 1.25 tool.
 

watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
ok, rotated the ip to the passenger side...wouldn't start at all. Rotated it to the drivers side about 1/8 it started a bit easier, but still no go. Rotated it a bit further to the drivers side, and no start.

Dropping the fuel tank here in a bit.
 

watkinssr

New member
247
3
0
Location
Fort Worth, Texa
Well, fuel tank is pulled and on the driveway. nothing obviously wrong, but the fuel lines weren't in the greatest shape so maybe replacing them will do the trick.
 
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