Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

[ehuppert]

The Roloc discs work great, but..... Those fibers are one of the worst things you can get in the motor! Make sure you clean any extra flying about residue! And, they do remove metal, so go light....

 

[retro_life]

The Roloc discs work great, but..... Those fibers are one of the worst things you can get in the motor! Make sure you clean any extra flying about residue! And, they do remove metal, so go light....

The discs I used were made from plastic, not sure what they’re called. They didn’t seem to give off any fibers or anything. I had the holes stuffed the whole time, too. I really only used them for the water block surfaces and those will get silicone + gasket. I did just enough to get rid of all the gunk. The intake manifold area was already pretty clean because the gasket came clean off. So no need to to touch there.

 

[cucvrus]

I use gaskets and the Right Stuff on the valve covers. Just beware when tightening them not to smash the gaskets. Looks Great and you could never get someone else to do that nice of work. Keep going. I take a long time also when I am doing rebuilds as I think out every move and plan on being as precise as possible. I see the work that others do and that is where I learned to do better. Be Safe and enjoy the weekend.

 

[retro_life]

Got the fuel pump installed today. Was a real PITA but I got her done! Tomorrow I plan to get the valve covers and all the water block stuff back on.

 

[retro_life]

Hey everyone, sorry for the lack of updates for the past week. I'm pretty much done! I got everything installed except the intake manifold. I'm planning to start it up tomorrow, but I just wanted to know how I should go about it. @cucvrus I was thinking I should crank it over and get the fuel going with the intake manifold off so I can check for any leaks on the injector pipes. I torqued them all to 20 ft lb as the TM said to do. But at the same time, I don't want a bunch of crap in the air to get sucked into the motor. Let me know how I should go about this.

 

[cucvrus]

I have run them like this only 1 time. I hated it. It was spewing exhaust and residue out of the EGR ports. Thinking out loud. I would remove the glow plugs and crank it over with the nozzle nuts loose. Do this till the fuel is present and all the nozzles are wet. Tighten the nuts and install the glow plugs. Start as normal. Maybe not normal but it should start from that point. The intake? I would install it and move on. Think positive and do it right. You think positive and work positive you get positive results. I am positive about that. Any other way. Well look around you see negative results everywhere. Don't be that guy. Take Care. Good Luck and I am Happy I could assist. Wish I had a few more hands but I deal with that daily in a positive manner. Be safe. Thank you for your confidence.

 

[retro_life]

She's back together and running great! I only took her around the block real quick, but so far so good. Will drive it more tomorrow. Thanks so much @cucvrus ! I wouldn't have done this without your support and encouragement! I saved 1000s of dollars and learned how to wrench on a 6.2. I feel accomplished and am glad I took this on.

First thing on the list now is to get some new tires! Any recommendations?

Running

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Running 2

Watch "Running 2" on Streamable.

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[cucvrus]

It looks really great. You done a super job. I like your attention to detail and cleanliness. I would consider getting the correct size group 31 batteries or some 6 TL batteries to compliment the finished look under the hood. I hope you have the correct battery hold downs. It looks great. I am happy I could help from afar. But you deserve the credit you had it in you all the time and just needed a little positive encouragement. Drive on. Thank you.

 

[gringeltaube]

I saved 1000s of dollars and learned how to wrench on a 6.2. I feel accomplished and am glad I took this on.

OK, guess it's about time to update your thread title, then... (did it for you)

Thanks so much @cucvrus ! I wouldn't have done this without your support and encouragement!

... How about this: "Thanks so much to this Great Forum STEEL SOLDIERS - and to member Cucvrus !" (In that particular order....)

 

[retro_life]

It looks really great. You done a super job. I like your attention to detail and cleanliness. I would consider getting the correct size group 31 batteries or some 6 TL batteries to compliment the finished look under the hood. I hope you have the correct battery hold downs. It looks great. I am happy I could help from afar. But you deserve the credit you had it in you all the time and just needed a little positive encouragement. Drive on. Thank you.

Thanks! I spent a lot of time cleaning under the hood, but it could still use some more cleaning lol. I wanted to paint the air cleaner like I did the valve covers, but I didn't want to lose that warning sticker. Anywhere to get more of those?

I definitely want to get the correct batteries. Those are just the Walmart specials from when I went to pick her up from the surplus yard. I do have the two battery hold downs. I just gotta clean up and paint the battery trays and replace a rod. Do you happen to know the thread pitch?

OK, guess it's about time to update your thread title, then... (did it for you)


... How about this: "Thanks so much to this Great Forum STEEL SOLDIERS - and to member Cucvrus !" (In that particular order....)

That's a great title! Thanks for fixing it for me. I'm so used to forums that don't let you edit stuff like that so I didn't even think about updating the title.

And yes sir, I am grateful to this forum in general which is why I became a supporter. I'm so happy there's a place with tons of knowledgeable people I can come to for help with my truck. I look forward to posting some more repairs and mods to the truck.

Thanks everyone!

 

[cucvrus]

Thanks! I spent a lot of time cleaning under the hood, but it could still use some more cleaning lol. I wanted to paint the air cleaner like I did the valve covers, but I didn't want to lose that warning sticker. Anywhere to get more of those?
Tape off the sticker. I do it all the time when I do repairs on tractors and mower decks. They cost a small fortune on some equipment.

Buy thread rod at a hardware store. 1/4 x 20 will get you started. Cut to length. Buff the cut end and install a clean new nut.

I think you have this. Reach out if you need any further assistance. Drive on.

 

[frank8003]

You get one very large attaboy
What means Attaboy?
express encouragement, approval, or admiration

—used to express encouragement, approval, or admiration.

 

[retro_life]

I got some new tires installed today. I went with Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 285/75/16. I love the way the truck looks now.

But unfortunately there is a new issue. I didn't mention it earlier but the truck had some vibration/droning at round 40mph. At low speed it's fine, and I can throttle through it to 45-50 and it will go away again. There seems to be a sweet spot when this vibration starts. The vibration seems to travel through the TC shifter.

cucv vibration

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cucv vibration 2

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I thought it was just the old worn out tires that were on the truck, but it is still happening even with the new tires installed.

I also noticed a leak coming from where the transmission and transfer case meet. I dipped my finger in it and it is definitely ATF. In the photos you'll see the transmission pan is very dirty, but that's old grease from when I had a diesel leak and it was blowing back though the bell housing. You'll also notice the front drive shaft has been removed in the pics. I have it and need to put it back on.

I know these trucks sometimes get the rear drive shafts bent from the surplus guys moving them around with forklifts, but the drive shat looks pretty straight. There is a little play in it when the truck is in park, but not sure if that's normal or the U-joints need replacing.

drive shaft

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The transmission mounts don't look so great either.

Take a look at the pictures and videos and let me know what you guys think I should do.

Thanks!

 

[cucvrus]

I would definitely have the drive shafts checked closely. Balanced if at all possible. Do they have any dents? Are the U joints free and not seized and binding? While you have the shafts off you may as well remove the transfer case and replace that gasket or seal it with the Permatex the Right Stuff. Make sure the transfer case is not over full. If this condition exists it is possible that the rear seal between the transmission and transfer case is leaking and it will push ATF into the transfer case and make it leak out the vent on the transfer case. I know you are wanting to clean all them parts anyway so look at it as an opportunity for improvements. The truck looks great and do your best to retain that original patina. The trucks with the original look are rare and sought after. If you want to do suspension work just replace the front springs with stock height and use the 4 ply style. They look great and retain the new original parts and driveline. This is a stock M1008 with the stock 235/16 tires. I added all new leaf springs to it. It sits nice and drove like day 1. Good Luck. Anyone recognize that truck? Oh it's out there. It's really out there.

 

[dougco1]

I would definitely have the drive shafts checked closely. Balanced if at all possible. Do they have any dents? Are the U joints free and not seized and binding? While you have the shafts off you may as well remove the transfer case and replace that gasket or seal it with the Permatex the Right Stuff. Make sure the transfer case is not over full. If this condition exists it is possible that the rear seal between the transmission and transfer case is leaking and it will push ATF into the transfer case and make it leak out the vent on the transfer case. I know you are wanting to clean all them parts anyway so look at it as an opportunity for improvements. The truck looks great and do your best to retain that original patina. The trucks with the original look are rare and sought after. If you want to do suspension work just replace the front springs with stock height and use the 4 ply style. They look great and retain the new original parts and driveline. This is a stock M1008 with the stock 235/16 tires. I added all new leaf springs to it. It sits nice and drove like day 1. Good Luck. Anyone recognize that truck? Oh it's out there. It's really out there. View attachment 837667

Hay, that truck looks familiar

 

[chevymike]

Pull the driveshaft and take it to get checked and balanced. If it is okay, put new u-joints in. My M1010 had a similar vibration but the shaft "looked" straight. I mounted a GoPro type camera on the frame, pointing back to view the driveshaft. Sure enough, there was a slight bend it in that you would not see with the naked eye. Since I was putting in a Gear Vendors OD unit, I had a new driveshaft made. It doesn't take much to cause driveshaft vibrations.

 

[LT67]

She's back together and running great! I only took her around the block real quick, but so far so good. Will drive it more tomorrow. Thanks so much @cucvrus ! I wouldn't have done this without your support and encouragement! I saved 1000s of dollars and learned how to wrench on a 6.2. I feel accomplished and am glad I took this on.

First thing on the list now is to get some new tires! Any recommendations?

Running

Watch "Running" on Streamable.

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Running 2

Watch "Running 2" on Streamable.

streamable.com

If you are running the stock suspension, a 255 85r16 mud tire will fit with no rubbing issues. In that size I run bfg km2's on my 86 M1008 and Toyo Mt's on my 79 K20. Both tires measured out to advertised specs when mounted on the factory wheels. And there are no issues with traction off road with a tall skinny mud tire. Both sets of tires do well on and off road.

 

[retro_life]

I pulled the drive shaft this morning and it was indeed dented and the ujoint completely came apart when I pulled it out, too.

I dropped the front and rear drive shafts off to a shop in Milwaukee and they’re going to rebuild the rear and install new u joints front and rear.

I haven’t had the time to inspect the transmission and TC yet to see if it’s just leaking from a seal or worse.. cracked somewhere. I’m praying for it to just be a seal.

 

[cucvrus]

That explains the leak in the transfer case. That size dent can break things and crack the transfer case. Not always but it can. Vibration can do serious damage if it is left unrepaired. I would check and make sure the gaskets are good and the seal between the transmission and transfer case are good. Fun owning one of these old trucks. They are good work trucks I was told told. Yes this is true. You can work on them everyday. But truth be told I have rebuilt a few in stock form and run them hard for many years with minor setbacks during the run. You are on the right track. Good Luck and Keep on Truckin.

 

[retro_life]

That explains the leak in the transfer case. That size dent can break things and crack the transfer case. Not always but it can. Vibration can do serious damage if it is left unrepaired. I would check and make sure the gaskets are good and the seal between the transmission and transfer case are good. Fun owning one of these old trucks. They are good work trucks I was told told. Yes this is true. You can work on them everyday. But truth be told I have rebuilt a few in stock form and run them hard for many years with minor setbacks during the run. You are on the right track. Good Luck and Keep on Truckin. View attachment 837738

I really hope there isn't any damage, but if there is I guess it's just more money unfortunately. I just want to hit the road, but things keep coming up.

So I was thinking about pulling the TC, but I kinda have some doubts doing it. For one, I'm a one man show and don't have any help. I'd really hate to be trying to balance the thing on a jack and disconnecting it and drop it on the ground or on myself. The TH400 and 208 look to be pretty darn heavy! Anyone ever use one of the harbor freight low lift transmission jacks and do this type of job at home? Is it safe and manageable for one person to drop the trans and TC?

Otherwise what I'm thinking is once I get the drive shafts back, I just pop them in and take it over to a transmission shop. I've been calling around and I was told that at best case scenario if nothing is cracked and just needs a seal they can do for it around $600, and that includes installing the new flex plate. That doesn't sound too bad. If it is cracked it will obviously be more because I'll have to replace things. I'm planning to get under there and clean and inspect what's going on, but we're having a rain storm in WI right now.

Another thing I was thinking about is the rear main seal. The best time to tackle that would be when the transmission is removed, correct? Is it worth messing with if it is not leaking? I'm trying to get all the things done that I can to prevent issues on the road. Does anyone know the correct fel pro part number for the rear seal?

While I'm waiting I think it would also be a good idea to swap out the harmonic balancer. From what I've read it doesn't seem too hard, as long as I have the proper puller tool. Which one should I go with? Standard AC Delco, or something more expensive like the fluidampr? Also, I see a lot of these kits say they don't include the bolt and washer. Does anyone know the part number for the bolt and washer?

Also....I discovered my power steering bracket is broken. It is just the tab on the top left that broke off--I still have the piece as it was being held on by the nut there. Everything is still holding firm while the motor is running, but I'm going to need to fix that too. I guess I'll remove it and get it welded somewhere.

One thing after the other it seems... But I'm determined to get it all done.

Again, thanks for all the help and advice. I really appreciate it!