Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

vanaisa

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Well, i may be wrong, but i always did coolant change this way:
drain from radiator (easiest to remove lower hose,if you have large pan);
if engine have drain plugs, from there too;
fill system with destilled water, run some 5 minutes;
drain again;
fill with proper coolant mix.

But this is your smallest problem right now. It can be done, when engine is running again.
 

retro_life

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Well, i may be wrong, but i always did coolant change this way:
drain from radiator (easiest to remove lower hose,if you have large pan);
if engine have drain plugs, from there too;
fill system with destilled water, run some 5 minutes;
drain again;
fill with proper coolant mix.

But this is your smallest problem right now. It can be done, when engine is running again.
I guess I’m being advised to drain it now is so I can change the coolant crossover gaskets.

the coolant looks clean so I’m guessing I can drain the coolant, change the gaskets and then fill it back up.

would pulling the large hose off be sufficient to drain the system without messing with that petcock bolt @cucvrus ?
 
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cucvrus

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Good deal. I am not sure how far you want to go. But if you remove the hoses you may as well change them. Most CUCV's I se have the original hoses on them. Not expensive and once you do it you are assured to not have to do them again. But that antifreeze has expired so I would replace it with new antifreeze. You are doing great. I still like to check and make sure the petcock is operational. Do it right the first time while the radiator is empty.
 

retro_life

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Good deal. I am not sure how far you want to go. But if you remove the hoses you may as well change them. Most CUCV's I se have the original hoses on them. Not expensive and once you do it you are assured to not have to do them again. But that antifreeze has expired so I would replace it with new antifreeze. You are doing great. I still like to check and make sure the petcock is operational. Do it right the first time while the radiator is empty.
I will see if I can find a new hose tomorrow and if I can I’ll def change it out. I ordered a new thermostat today, too. The only one I could find was a duralast brand from auto zone—part # 42995. I originally wanted the NAPA one but they said it would be over a week to get it. The duralast should be here tomorrow.

I’m gonna pull off the cross over pipe and clean it and then reinstall with the new gaskets. Then pop in the new thermostat.

As soon as I remove the rear water blocks I’ll show you the temp sensor so you can let me know if that’s the updated one or not.

I decided to just pull the big hose because that petcock was hard to access and it wasn’t leaking or anything so I thought it best not to disturb it.
 

cucvrus

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Little tip that has worked for me. Use an impact if possible to break the M10 thermostat bolts loose. They have a tendency to strip out the threads due to the aluminum on steel reaction. Electrolysis I think is the correct term. But yes use a bit of never seize on the bolts when reattaching and make sure the flange of the coolant manifold is clean so the thermostat can be properly seated in place before tightening the thermostat cover. I seen a few cracked and stripped manifolds. Good Luck report back. And while you are at it replace the top hose, bypass hose, and the heater hoses. Only cost a few dollars more to do it right. I would get the radiator rodded out and thoroughly checked out. That radiator repair business is a dying art. I still have a friend I went to school with that does it. But I just talked with him last week and he said 4 more years he is out of it and that will be the end of radiator repairs in my area. Buy new and throw away the old will be the new norm. Good Luck. Thank you for the updates.
 

retro_life

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Little tip that has worked for me. Use an impact if possible to break the M10 thermostat bolts loose. They have a tendency to strip out the threads due to the aluminum on steel reaction. Electrolysis I think is the correct term. But yes use a bit of never seize on the bolts when reattaching and make sure the flange of the coolant manifold is clean so the thermostat can be properly seated in place before tightening the thermostat cover. I seen a few cracked and stripped manifolds. Good Luck report back. And while you are at it replace the top hose, bypass hose, and the heater hoses. Only cost a few dollars more to do it right. I would get the radiator rodded out and thoroughly checked out. That radiator repair business is a dying art. I still have a friend I went to school with that does it. But I just talked with him last week and he said 4 more years he is out of it and that will be the end of radiator repairs in my area. Buy new and throw away the old will be the new norm. Good Luck. Thank you for the updates.
I got all the water block stuff taken off and I will be picking up new hoses and thermostat shortly. Looks like they attached the tube going to the thermostat with the gasket and some RTV. Should I also do that when I when I re-install it? What type do you recommend--Permatex, right stuff etc.

I will also pick up some anti-seize and make sure to put some on all the bolts before going back in.

How do you recommend I clean up the gasket surfaces? Scotch bright? razor?

That rear dummy block comes off right? I think they glued the sh** out of it with some liquid gasket. I was going to ask you about that before trying to pry it off.

Here's some pics of everything.
 

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cucvrus

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I use Permatex the right stuff lightly on everything. And yes I use the Rolok 2" mini disc for cleaning small areas. that cover plate will come right off. If you are not on a tight budget I would also change the fuel lift pump before installing a new injection pump. Dissect that old pump after you do. You will be surprised at the crud in the bowl. If it looks new then take a chance. If it has AC on the side of the pump it is the original one. But make sure you get the right pump the first time out. Your engine has the newer updated coolant temperature sensor. that is great to see. keep going you will be up and running in no time. Thank you.
 

cucvrus

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CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 4 | SteelSoldiers
Check out the tread I posted on the correct lift pump. Make sure you have the correct one. Accept no substitutes. They will fit but they will not pump fuel. The pumping action must take place immediately upon compression of the lever. Replace the push rod cover gasket also. When you get there it is easy from the topside except hooking up the feed hose. I always set the right Gen 2 aside to access the lift pump from topside. Report back.
 

retro_life

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CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 4 | SteelSoldiers
Check out the tread I posted on the correct lift pump. Make sure you have the correct one. Accept no substitutes. They will fit but they will not pump fuel. The pumping action must take place immediately upon compression of the lever. Replace the push rod cover gasket also. When you get there it is easy from the topside except hooking up the feed hose. I always set the right Gen 2 aside to access the lift pump from topside. Report back.
I’m out picking up parts right now. Got all the radiator hoses and also the new thermostat. Looks much different than the one that was in there.

I generally ask for parts for a 84 K20 at part stores, but Napa didn’t have the lift pump and said it would be 3 weeks to get one. I take it from what you just said it would’ve been the wrong one anyway.

Thank you
 

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Skinny

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I'd probably only put genuine Delco thermostat or lift pump in there. You are already committed timewise, why not put a better quality part in for not a lot more money.

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retro_life

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I'd probably only put genuine Delco thermostat or lift pump in there.

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Couldn’t find them locally. I got the part number listed in the cucv wiki.. does it really make a difference ?

I ordered the lift pump @cucvrus listed in his thread from autozone. Should be here in a few days.
 

Skinny

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You gamble with all of it but personally I'd rather buy OEM or same brand as original supplier. It should be made by AC Delco.

Deal breaker, probably not. I have almost ten years on thermostat amd lift pump woth no issues which is nice.

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retro_life

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You gamble with all of it but personally I'd rather buy OEM or same brand as original supplier. It should be made by AC Delco.

Deal breaker, probably not. I have almost ten years on thermostat amd lift pump woth no issues which is nice.

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It says made in Israel on it which was kinda surprising to me. Better than made in China I guess.

I could put the original one back in there—it looked fine. But I figure might as well go with new stuff.
 

Skinny

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Haha

Yeah made and works is about as good as it gets. It won't be NOS but its the same part the dealer puts in the box that says Chevrolet and hands it over the counter at triple the price though.

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cucvrus

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I have used parts that were made all over the world for years. Some things have not faired as well as others. I see stuff that is built and maintained in the USA and am not impressed with the longevity or fit and finish. I have been using parts from wherever I can get them. The lift pump has been a problem getting the correct one for a long time. I am not sure what the problem is. Take anyone else's negatively and opinion with a grain of salt. Including my own. But if I had anything bad to say about a product it would be it didn't fit or was poorly fitting or constructed. Any replacement part is a risk. Inspect it and it fits use it. Clean and repair as you go and do the best you can. Fix the important things and do the repairs correctly. Speaking from experience Autozone and NAPA parts are sourced from the same vendors. Packaging is different. I peeled decals from Autozone and NAPA and had another vendors name beneath, Good Luck. You are doing great and you have lots of things to clean and fix while the other parts are in transit. Lets get this truck road worthy with what you have. I had a fine piece that was made in Israel. Hung in the cabinet. UZI 9MM. traded it for something more useful.
 

Skinny

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Ac Delco 43254 is what fits the 6.2 engine. Looks hard to find, I'd go to Delphi as a second one up.

Why wouldn't use anything but the OEM part?

Correct answer...glow plugs. Do not use Wellman. Other then that, use OEM.

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retro_life

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One thing I got today that I won’t use is a Stant thermostat inlet gasket from Napa. For $1.29 I just picked it up as a backup, but I hate those gaskets that have a sticker on one side.
Picking up a felpro tomorrow.

I also got a nice big can of the right stuff.

Oh yeah, and Badger called me today and said my pump is ready. Will go pick that baby up tomorrow.
 

ehuppert

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Belts yet? Only brand I personally use is Gates. (Believe NAPA is gates, rebranded) Many years ago I had a problem with a different manufacturer.... You'd consistently have to tighten initial and twice more shortly after. Was on fleet work and it was the norm.....

Keep the old ones for back-up on the road trip! If you have them you'll never need them! Believe there's numerous posts as to the correct belts...
 
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