What did you do to your M37 today?

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M-37Bruce

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What I did on my M-37 today, I drained all of the fuel, blew out all of my fuel lines from the tank to the filter and back to the filter/12 volt pump, a mess ensued! after clean up, I attempted turn-over w/o ignition lit, my surprise, starter spun, disappointed, I redid everything I had already tried and knocked the starter a couple of sharp whacks with a 2 x 4 and a small mallet, again no dice! Tomorrow is another day.
 

Saberr

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slightly confused, you got starter to turn over with out ignition lit, but are dissapaointed, so you hit the starter ?
 

M-37Bruce

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Midlothian, VA
slightly confused, you got starter to turn over with out ignition lit, but are dissapaointed, so you hit the starter ?
I tried to start my truck w/o ignition turned on and no fuel, just to turn the crank and move some oil around before adding fuel to the system.
 

Floridianson

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Just saying being an old timer best place to keep the drum screws is in the drum. As said after I adjusted the brakes wheel off I just loosen the screws just a bit and had Never-Seize on them. This way I know where they are and if ever the next owner will find them there. From the looks of it and my calipers there is a slight taper to the M37 wheel studs that lock that drum tight to the studs when pulled up tight. New to me truck and new to me learning curve.
 
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Saberr

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yep thats is dissapointing. Fortunitly most starter rebuilders, espec deal with older constructions equip can fix them,. Worst case can buy nos, for ok price.
 

Floridianson

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Installed new mechanical fuel pump. Installed new left front wheel cylinder and brakes. Put on drum and wheel adjusted brakes. Out of all that the hardest was the dang cab to hood welting. Had to use an sharp point to make sure I was right on top of the holes in the cab to hammer in the nail thingy's. Good thing I have lost weight and the truck has strong fenders. I would rather do three more wheel cylinders than have to do that welting again.
 

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Floridianson

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Oil and filter. When I got it the boy said to use Rotella 15/ 40 and I think that is to heavy and really not the right oil. I decided to go with Amsoil synthetic Z rod 10W30 that has high zinc. Yea it cost more but with 10K into this truck as me if I worry about it. Having fun driving it around town and the looks I get with soft top off and windshield down.
 

Floridianson

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Have been reading as many threads and such on the M37 and someone posted you have to soak the leather seals before use. Well there is more to it per manual. After 30 minutes of soaking in a thin oil we must "work" the leather by rolling it with a smooth bar. We I can only guess "work" it but think I will stay with synthetic as never liked more work.
 

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Soupermike

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I mounted my fuel tank after lining it with Red-Kote. Installed carb/air cleaner and pulled the pto to fix a leak.
 

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John Mc

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Just did an oil change and cleaned out the air filter and replaced the filter oil in mine yesterday. First oil change since I bought it last September. I had been meaning to get to it earlier, but just hadn't found the time. I was not particularly worried, since th eprevious owner changed the oil yearly, and only put a max. of couple thousand miles per year on it. Oil filter cannister had a good bit of sludge in the bottom.

I thought I'd try out the Amsoil Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic oil which some have recommended. The high zinc formulation is supposed to be good for these engines (I gather it's not good for vehicles with a catalytic converter, but thats not a concern here). One thing I've noticed: the water temp is running about 10-20˚F cooller than before the oil change, despite the ambient temperature being warmer and my taking longer trips. Could be coincidence, could be that any fresh oil would have helped, but I've noticed a similar thing when switching to synthetic oil on a few small engines I have.
 
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Floridianson

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Yea believe the Z rod somewhere I was reading 1440 ppm. We will see once I put some miles on it then send it to Blackstone. The Rotella I was running and run in almost all of the other trucks was 1242 just about what I was reading also. I see why the old timers / racers switched to our diesel oil before all the newer stuff for racers and flat tappets came out. Thought it was Amsoil they felt anything around 1000ppm on the flat tappets would protect. 2000 ppm was for new break in and racers with fast ramps and high valve spring pressures. I would never just add the zinc additive to any oil if I did not know where the oil was to start with and still send it to Blackstone to make sure I was not to high. I send all my oils out.
 

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Floridianson

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Scored 5 wheels for free today. Yea rubber is no good but hay free wheels it put a smile on my face just like my stimulus check stimulated a smile.
Plus Mona shipped out my new cab canvas top today. Thanks Mona at New life Canvas. Lets not forget sold 100 bucks worth of MV parts today too. Was a good day A.
 

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M-37Bruce

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Scored 5 wheels for free today. Yea rubber is no good but hay free wheels it put a smile on my face just like my stimulus check stimulated a smile.
Plus Mona shipped out my new cab canvas top today. Thanks Mona at New life Canvas. Lets not forget sold 100 bucks worth of MV parts today too. Was a good day A.
Excellent catch!
 
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