What did you do to your M37 today?

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Floridianson

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Per the help of member pjwest03 aka Harlan starting in on my one wire alternator upgrade. I still have a 16 /19 mm pully on order but things looking good so far. I am using all my stock brackets and as of now looks like I will need a shorter stock belt. Had to rework the alternator just a bit but being a caveman it was not hard. I will keep up on the thread if all works out on the alinement and show what I had to do. Thanks Harlan so far. Also I have to many 24 volt headlights left over from the other trucks so quick wiring job. I am not going to pay the high price for the bulbs with the wire attached to the bulb and connectors that were stock as no one sees the connections and now quick easy change. Wires soldered, liquid tape and heat shrink.
 

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Floridianson

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OK now just waiting on a new shorter belt. The stock arm does not have a curve in it so there is only about a little over one inch of travel to adjust the belt tension on this set up. The belt that was on mine was 54 inches and I ordered one that is 52 inches so we will see. I got the new pully in from National quick start sales and it fit perfect on the shaft. So far the line up is looking real good using the my stock bracket and having to modify the Alternator housing just a bit. Really was no problem and guess I got lucky with the hack saw. I had to remove some of the housing to get the Alternator to get in line and removed about 1/2 inch of the alternator housing to move the alternator back to the rear the firewall some. Here is the link to National quick start where I bought the pully #A203. https://store.alternatorparts.com/search.aspx?find=A203
 
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Floridianson

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Also here is the Alternator Harlan recommended I try. So Far so good.
 

Floridianson

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Rear drive shaft front u joint was bad so got it replaced. Went to put some grease in the rear drive shaft rear joint before I installed the drive line and Thanks. Someone put the u joint in backwards and they must have said heck with it as the grease fitting not even installed. If you put them in backwards you can not get the grease gun on the grease fitting with the drive shaft installed. O well got it apart and waiting on one more u joint from my local auto parts place. Went pretty good and only needed two ball peen hammers and a flat blade screw driver and a pair of vice grips to do both u joints.
 

Floridianson

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Nothing like a soft top. To tell you the truth any windshield that can be folded I love a soft top. On the Deuce or 809 series so much easer to pull it off and do transmission a R&R and the safety factor than working from the bottom. Still waiting on my antique tag but took it for a ride on my back roads today. Small spot on the drivers door I am prepping to take care of and then shoot the door with fresh paint. At least the little truck is keeping me close to home with all that is going on and keeping me out of trouble with the girls.
 

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Floridianson

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Talk about hens teeth but I found the last battery tray for sale on Earth I think. Little new paint on the bottom and tomorrow a little new paint on the top side, dry and install. Ordered the battery hold down bracket and should be here soon and thanks to one of our members post two 1993 Honda Del Sol battery's . Also got my title in today and sent info to Gulfway collector insurance company so I can apply for my antique tags.
 

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Floridianson

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After finding a battery tray and ordering the stock hold down bracket from Midwest things looking good. The battery box and lid came with the truck when I bought it. I used aftermarket hold down rods for now but have ordered the stock rods / bolts. Thanks to an old post and one of our members vtdeucedriver for posting that the Honda Del Sol batteries fit just right in the tray and the stock hold down. :driver:
 

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Floridianson

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Engine oil and filter plus removed the bypass canister and gave it a good cleaning. Had a little brake fluid on the passenger side drum front so pulled both sides. New hub seals and will repack the bearings tomorrow when my seals come in plus new wheel cylinders. I will say those hub seals have to be one of the harder ones I have had to get out. Good thing I had my seal be gone tool.
Also was easer to remove the hub and drum at the same time and work on the three screws with the drum flat on the ground. Used my hand impact and hammer and came right out. Cleaned the screws up with wire brush and anti-seize them up. Will install hub first then drum when ready to reassemble. Staying at home seems to be a good thing for me or at least getting a lot done in one day.
 

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Saberr

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Just a side note, i was told to not bother putting those 3 scres back in by multiple old timers. They always a sob to remove, even with anti seize. Was told there only there so when you remove tire, the drum can't come off, otherwise the lugs keep it on. Hopefuly anti seize will work perfectly :). Nice thorought job, always dread seals.
 

Floridianson

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Yea the wheel would hold the drum on no problem. Think I am just looking for stuff to do to keep my mind off what is happening around the world. Also the right tools makes a easy job of it and I even did the screw that holds the shoe inspection plate on the drum. I like working on this smaller truck so much better than all the others big ones.
 

Floridianson

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Well all the parts came in plus my extra bearing race. Packed the inner and installed the hub seal. Got luck my FMTV hub seal tool was the perfect size to match the M37 hub seal. It does not hold it like a matching seal and tool but it was a great to catch all the seal. Started the hub seal with it and finished of with the race and seal tool. I went real slow when the snap ring groove started to show. I used the snap ring and tried to insert just the tip in the groove all around. If the seal was not deep enough just a light tap with the race on the seal till I could just make a circle with the tip of the snap ring. Install the snap ring and make sure it was seated right. Myself I pack the trough with grease and a paint stirring stick works perfect. I packed the outer bearing and with the hub facing outer bearing up installed the outer bearing. These hubs are light compared to my MTV hubs. I picked up the hub using my two thumbs to hold the outer bearing in place and started to put the hub on the spindle. I never try and seat the hub all the way up by pushing on it. Most hubs are so heavy I have to hold the hub centered on the spindle till I get the outer bearing and nut on. The hub / outer bearing went in far enough for me to get the nut started. From here I use the hub nut socket and while I tighten up the nut I spun the hub till it the nut was tight and hub fully seated. Set preload and jam nut torqued. Put a little grease in the cavity around the outer area cleaned and up my mess. Install the new locking hubs and now just waiting on my new wheel cylinders. Just to mention I hate silicone for a gasket sealer. I love the high tack gasket spray and if I ever have to go back in a quick spray of brake cleaner and it is ready for the new gasket. Well at least that is done with.
 

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Floridianson

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Just a side note, i was told to not bother putting those 3 scres back in by multiple old timers. They always a sob to remove, even with anti seize. Was told there only there so when you remove tire, the drum can't come off, otherwise the lugs keep it on. Hopefuly anti seize will work perfectly :). Nice thorought job, always dread seals.
Went to put the drum back on and without using the three screws the drum did not seat all the way on the hub. This might have given me a bad brake adjustment if I did not see it was not fully seated. I did my brake adjustment with the wheel off. I used the three screws and tighten them down tight and could hear and see the drum seat. Went to take the drum back off and had to use the jacking bolts as the drum was seated tight to the hub. I again put the drum back on and used the three screws and tighten them down tight again and watched the drum move in and seat tight. I then loosen the three screws but then just snugged them up to the drum because it was fully seated. I will keep my screws installed for or if the next time I have the drum off and the hub on. I am an old timer and if nothing else do not throw you screws away you might just need them to pull the drum up tight next time you do brake work.
 

Saberr

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Yes, to adjust the brakes, you do need to use the screws, or bolt that will hold the drum on, have to have drum flush to adjust. Meant was that you don't have to have the screws on to put the wheel on and drive. Its always a great idea to keep any old part, amazing how often its easier to re-use or find, than get new parts. So that more a tip for if your in corrosian places, or cant get screws. Spent waaay to much time trying to learn how to adjust brakes lol.
 

Floridianson

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Maybe my drums wheel stud holes are in great shape and with the hub wheel studs being in great shape my drum fits very tight to the hub wheel studs. You can also see how much area is on the stud for the drum to lock on too after the threads stop. Setup this way the drum would never have any slop on the studs. And yes that is Never-Seize and I only use it because the little size of the truck. I do not use it on something as big or bigger than a Deuce. Someone once said it says it on the can of Never-Seize us on wheel studs. Mine can does not say that anywhere on the can.
 

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