What did you do to your trailer today.

FloridaAKM

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You were worried for nothing on that buy & recovery. It may have a few small issues, but it is still a great score. Congratulations on it all the way, auction pictures were poor compared to what you posted.

My deal is not working as well as the lift hydraulics blew a cylinder while I was unloading the trailer for the shop pickup Saturday!
 

FloridaAKM

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Well, I discovered that a Gichner S-788 - G will not fit in a M-1102 or a M-105a2 after trying to load it with a forklift. Proves the old adage that you measure twice & it fits, rather than you try twice & it still won't fit. It seems that I really don't know what I think I do sometimes. Well, there is next week & the A/M34K-4a air launched missile trailer will have to be home to the shelter till I come up with a better platform. At least it will be home where I can start work on it.
 

Tinstar

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Installed new Grade 8 tank bolts on my M149A1-2
Glad I did as all were very rusted and several were almost half original shaft size.
All came out fine except for one.
Would have to remove tank again to get it as it’s spinning the insert in tank.

I wanted to go back with the original style safety wire bolts but their pricey and didn’t really need them since I don’t tow it up and down the highway.
 

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FloridaAKM

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Saturday was pickup attempt 2 for the Gichner S-788-G shelter & it fit on the A/M34K-4a perfectly. I did have to remove the bolted on tie downs on the corners & put 2"x 8" runners down the center & outside of the trailer deck to space the shelter off the deck since there is a small bolted on plate in the front area of the shelter that wouldn't let it rest flat on the deck. Pulling the trailer is a huge pain due to loaded or unloaded, it likes to oscillate vertically & bang against the pintel hitch like a bucking bronco. Pulling it with the Deuce, it can't be seen or heard, but pulling with the Toyota Tacoma, you are very aware of all the noise & gyrations. 15 miles of backroads in the country makes towing easy running @ a max 30mph. Yes, I know it is not the best way to do it, but it is better than giving up the purchase price due to not being able to remove it from the GP site.
 

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flyfishtrailer

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Today I spent a couple of hours hand stitching the zippers on my M1102 cargo cover. Picked the cover up on GP for $60 (as well as what appears to be camo Humvee and FMTV covers as well). All three were in great shape, of course except for the one I needed. It was simple enough, the thread had pulled away on both zippers. I make no claims to be a seamstress, but I think I did a decent enough job to be useable for awhile (at which point it will go to a canvas repair shop and be done right). Other than the thread pulling away, both zippers were in great shape and not missing any teeth. IMG_0585.JPGIMG_0586.JPGIMG_0587.JPGIMG_0588.JPG
 

Floridianson

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Drilled two holes so I could use my better ladder. Started in on removing the three phase in coming power supply so I can go to single phase. This trailer had DC and 400 HZ power inside. For right now I just want to get the lights up and running so I will go 30 amp power in. Was thinking best thing in the long run 50 amp so that is on the table for later.
 

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Bill Nutting

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I attached a sheet of 3/8" plywood to the top of the bows on my M101A1, copying the idea from how I received my other M101 trailer. That will keep water from pooling in between the bows.

Before
View attachment 667949

Sinking screws to protect the tarp.
View attachment 667954

The plywood installed.
View attachment 667955

The cover installed over the plywood.
View attachment 667956
If you put a sheet of 1” foam insulation on top of the plywood it will protect the vinyl top from chafing.
 

Mullaney

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Guess I did something right because we got light. Some of the trailers I have have the old style ballast resistors and I guess I have some bad ones. Think I will rewire the fixtures for LED and get rid of those ballast resistors. My father would be proud so far.

Those panels look good! Nice job Floridianson ! First class lighting in that trailer for sure.

We replaced our ballast lighting using tubes in the existing fixtures here in the print shop about 6 years ago. It is SO nice to just have light and zero maintenance. Power bill is less too with LED lighting, so I imagine if you drive the trailer with a generator - it won't have to work nearly as much... I definitely don't miss replacing a ballast or two every month (48 fixtures).

Tim
 

Floridianson

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Got one bank of the LED's in and got lucky I used my old tombstones just had to shunt them. Think I will do the other outer bank and see how well lit the trailer is as I might get away with just two banks and leave the two inner banks alone. Four banks of LED's would be a operating room bright.
 

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Floridianson

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Had a couple of weak spots in the plywood in the front so I am replacing all the forward wood. Not bad getting it out and new cut to size. Just waiting on Amazon for the Torx head screws I like to use so come on Amazon. Then new vinyl and we are good to go.
 

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Floridianson

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OK one trailer converted to LED so now the other one and this one a little more work. Also one ballast guess no one house trained it and it went in the housing.
PS one side done from starting this morning. Yea this trailer was a little harder as it had other wires in the channel used for the other outlets on the wall.
 

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Mullaney

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OK one trailer converted to LED so now the other one and this one a little more work. Also one ballast guess no one house trained it and it went in the housing.
Wow. And the stink from those things when they "go" will make you gag. Best thing we ever did here in the shop was converting to LEDs. I was on a ladder at least twice a month swapping a ballast. It has been 7 years since the swap and we are finally starting to see some bulb failures... Still better than the old way by a lot.

Looking good in that trailer!

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