What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Drock

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I’ve thought about one of these for a while, where’d you get it? I ended up moving my rear battery onto the front tray as well because it died prematurely even with a heat shield wrap.
I got it off Ebay $24.90. Any T4 turbo blanket will work but this one was in my price range. I can PM you a link if your interested.
 
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cucvrus

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DSCF3580.jpg
Prices on heater cores are nothing compared to a radiator.
Don't need one yet, but I think I'll order one anyway.
This was a re-core I had done about 8-10 years ago. Leaking now. Wise money would have bought a new one with a lifetime warranty. I had a radiator shop do the work they do not give lifetime warranties. Sort of hard to ask after 8 - 10 years. But the Autozone one would be no questions asked. I had that radiator support and all sanded and painted back when I assembled it and got it under roof. I never finished the M1009 I just wanted to get it running and get it inside out of the weather. About 2007 vintage.
 

computer54

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Nashville,TN
View attachment 700566

This was a re-core I had done about 8-10 years ago. Leaking now. Wise money would have bought a new one with a lifetime warranty. I had a radiator shop do the work they do not give lifetime warranties. Sort of hard to ask after 8 - 10 years. But the Autozone one would be no questions asked. I had that radiator support and all sanded and painted back when I assembled it and got it under roof. I never finished the M1009 I just wanted to get it running and get it inside out of the weather. About 2007 vintage.
Yea but this is what I was talking about the Radiator .
 

Drock

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I went back and looked, The heater core I got was $25.99 + $5.00 shipping from Pepboys (Ebay auction). They originally sent the wrong one, in the right box so watch out! There are several heater cores made for our trucks, but this one actually fits. The others are much thinner and require "padding" to make fit (Padding not included).20170921_155112.jpg
 
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Biomed Joe

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I pulled everything out from the bench seat back, cleaned the sheet metal, treated the rust spots, sprayed bed liner on the floor and w-wells then placed some un-molded rubber backed auto carpet down and covered that with 1/8 inch molded industrial polyvinyl from LMC Truck. That should quiet my M1009. Next project...the shell seals. Next, next project...the window seals. The front floor is a nightmare yet to be resolved.
 

computer54

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Location
Nashville,TN
i think I have a heat related problem with air getting in the fuel lines but don't know how to fix because my fuel filter in on the back of the motor under the air filter. My truck is a 93 chevy 4 by 4 6.2l help would be nice.
 

cucvrus

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I pulled everything out from the bench seat back, cleaned the sheet metal, treated the rust spots, sprayed bed liner on the floor and w-wells then placed some un-molded rubber backed auto carpet down and covered that with 1/8 inch molded industrial polyvinyl from LMC Truck. That should quiet my M1009. Next project...the shell seals. Next, next project...the window seals. The front floor is a nightmare yet to be resolved.
Your next project should be learning how to replace the floor pan in the M1009. You have just built a rust whore house in that poor vehicle. Every time you get in it will get wet and it will soak up every drop of moisture it can get. It will never dry and will rust relentlessly. Road noise and hearing the engine and driveline is the CUCV experience. I have a few that have Line X in them. I also have a few that have the floor painted with CARC paint. The CARC holds up remarkably well to wear. I even have the roof off for the past 6 years on my Mule M1009 and the back window open all summer long and on occasion the side glass. Dry as dust in a few hours. Now imagine that with carpeting and the rubber mat in there. Never dry. Just my thought. Do as you wish. Have a great day. Nice weather the next few days. Lots of opportunity for getting it done. What ever it is you need to get done.
 

3jumpjeep

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Linsdale, TN
Your next project should be learning how to replace the floor pan in the M1009. You have just built a rust whore house in that poor vehicle. Every time you get in it will get wet and it will soak up every drop of moisture it can get. It will never dry and will rust relentlessly. Road noise and hearing the engine and driveline is the CUCV experience. I have a few that have Line X in them. I also have a few that have the floor painted with CARC paint. The CARC holds up remarkably well to wear. I even have the roof off for the past 6 years on my Mule M1009 and the back window open all summer long and on occasion the side glass. Dry as dust in a few hours. Now imagine that with carpeting and the rubber mat in there. Never dry. Just my thought. Do as you wish. Have a great day. Nice weather the next few days. Lots of opportunity for getting it done. What ever it is you need to get done.
I use hearing protection on long highway drives.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
I done it to several. I think great. I sold a few to guys on here with the Line X. It sure does hold up to years of traffic and abuse. I tried the Durabac brush in liner. Pure garbage. In 2 years I seen a few raised marks be=hind the seat. I tapped on them and the floor went thru. Prepped and installed by the factory rep. I spent an entire winter scrapping and sanding it out. LineXed since 2010 and not a mark under it or on it. Used hard in my wood cutting M1009 Crown of Thorns. I have spilled gasoline, oil, and ATF. No lift. My Son has a brush in in the cab and ATF lifted it like a latex glove. Well worth the money. I had Rhino fail twice in beds. Dried out and cracked on 2 trucks.
 
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