What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

joshuak

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Haven't been on this thread in a long time, about a year I guess.. Something about work...

Last year when I got back from vacation, I scored 8 new GP's from an English guy for a fraction of the price (DieselRx)
Back home removed and tested the old ones, they were all dead, but not swollen.
Put in the new plugs, removed the resistor bank on the firewall and put the GP relay on 12volts.
Also removed the GP controller and wired in a pushbutton. Wired it so that when I push it, the "wait" light comes on also when glowing.
Now need to glow a bit longer, but works great.

Beside the normal maintenance, still in search of 33x12.5x16.5 tires. Here in Europe they seen to be made of unobtanium..
Now have to make due with second hand tires with some cuts in the tread.

Replaced a marker/turnsignal socket, as the inside wiring was messed up.
Got 2 secondhand numberplate lights and made 1 good one out of 3 bad ones.

Now to find out if the front BO lights in the bumper can be switched on while service lights are on. Does anyone know this?
Want to convert them to (switchable) driving lights.

And to see if the High idle is bypassable.

Not many options for tires in the r16.5 flavor on this side of the pond either.

Unless you want to run boggers. https://www.intercotire.com/tires/type/specialty_light_truck_off_road/tire_rim_diameter/165

In 37's you could get take offs or retreads, https://www.treadwright.com/collections/filter?rim=16-5&search_by_size=true .
 

Kaiser67M715

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NH
Haven't been on this thread in a long time, about a year I guess.. Something about work...

Last year when I got back from vacation, I scored 8 new GP's from an English guy for a fraction of the price (DieselRx)
Back home removed and tested the old ones, they were all dead, but not swollen.
Put in the new plugs, removed the resistor bank on the firewall and put the GP relay on 12volts.
Also removed the GP controller and wired in a pushbutton. Wired it so that when I push it, the "wait" light comes on also when glowing.
Now need to glow a bit longer, but works great.

Beside the normal maintenance, still in search of 33x12.5x16.5 tires. Here in Europe they seen to be made of unobtanium..
Now have to make due with second hand tires with some cuts in the tread.

Replaced a marker/turnsignal socket, as the inside wiring was messed up.
Got 2 secondhand numberplate lights and made 1 good one out of 3 bad ones.

Now to find out if the front BO lights in the bumper can be switched on while service lights are on. Does anyone know this?
Want to convert them to (switchable) driving lights.

And to see if the High idle is bypassable.
16.5 tires have been getting harder to find period. It's not just Europe. I've had to replace wheels and tires because it's been cheaper then finding 16.5 tires in the right size that don't cost 4x a regular 16 inch tire costs.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

german m1008

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Frankfurt,Germany
Haven't been on this thread in a long time, about a year I guess.. Something about work...

Last year when I got back from vacation, I scored 8 new GP's from an English guy for a fraction of the price (DieselRx)
Back home removed and tested the old ones, they were all dead, but not swollen.
Put in the new plugs, removed the resistor bank on the firewall and put the GP relay on 12volts.
Also removed the GP controller and wired in a pushbutton. Wired it so that when I push it, the "wait" light comes on also when glowing.
Now need to glow a bit longer, but works great.

Beside the normal maintenance, still in search of 33x12.5x16.5 tires. Here in Europe they seen to be made of unobtanium..
Now have to make due with second hand tires with some cuts in the tread.

Replaced a marker/turnsignal socket, as the inside wiring was messed up.
Got 2 secondhand numberplate lights and made 1 good one out of 3 bad ones.

Now to find out if the front BO lights in the bumper can be switched on while service lights are on. Does anyone know this?
Want to convert them to (switchable) driving lights.

And to see if the High idle is bypassable.
..........https://m.bkt-tires.com/de/pattern/multimax-mt-518#code-8903094039517_over
 

Rutjes

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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
After hours and hours of removing body mounts from the M1009, I was finally able to get the rear cross-member out. At first I removed the four mounts at the rear and tried to lift the body from the back. No luck. After cutting holes in the floor I was able to remove the front left mount and loosen the right one. Still could not lift the rear up high enough. Then a neighbor came by and together we managed to raise to body enough for me to be able to grind of the rivet heads.

IMG_20190716_170625.jpg

I wanted to use both M1009 rear cross-members, but the front one will not work with how the M1028 frame is sloped there. Will have to use a piece of angle in front of the tank like others do. Started test fitting and mounting things on the M1028. Everything fits great so far, tank isn't exactly level, will be an easy fix. I was able to re-purpose existing holes and only drill a minimal amount of extra holes for bolts to go through.

IMG_20190722_184959.jpg

BUT, only after having everything mounted in place I noticed that the filler tube goes straight over the hole for the bed mount!

IMG_20190722_202608.jpg

I''m not sure what to do now... move it further back? I don't want to drill more holes... I think I'll modify the bed cross-member(s) as they need replacing anyway.

Time to go order a plastic tank (31 gal), new sender and straps.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
693
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18
Location
NH
After hours and hours of removing body mounts from the M1009, I was finally able to get the rear cross-member out. At first I removed the four mounts at the rear and tried to lift the body from the back. No luck. After cutting holes in the floor I was able to remove the front left mount and loosen the right one. Still could not lift the rear up high enough. Then a neighbor came by and together we managed to raise to body enough for me to be able to grind of the rivet heads.

View attachment 771634

I wanted to use both M1009 rear cross-members, but the front one will not work with how the M1028 frame is sloped there. Will have to use a piece of angle in front of the tank like others do. Started test fitting and mounting things on the M1028. Everything fits great so far, tank isn't exactly level, will be an easy fix. I was able to re-purpose existing holes and only drill a minimal amount of extra holes for bolts to go through.

View attachment 771633

BUT, only after having everything mounted in place I noticed that the filler tube goes straight over the hole for the bed mount!

View attachment 771632

I''m not sure what to do now... move it further back? I don't want to drill more holes... I think I'll modify the bed cross-member(s) as they need replacing anyway.

Time to go order a plastic tank (31 gal), new sender and straps.
This might work out in your benefit to move the cross member forward or backward, one normally has to notch the center to clear the pickup tubes and hump of the fuel tank, perhaps moving it back a few inches will allow you adequate clearance.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

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Why does that rear brake drum look so different than the M1028/M1008? Just asking cause it appears to be a smaller size drum. Lots of work you have going on there. Good Luck.
 

Rutjes

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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Why does that rear brake drum look so different than the M1028/M1008? Just asking cause it appears to be a smaller size drum. Lots of work you have going on there. Good Luck.
Might be the angle of the photo? This is what was on it when I bought the truck. Never really looked at it, figured those are stock? Do you have any reference shots?
 

royalflush55

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Reydon, OK
Why does that rear brake drum look so different than the M1028/M1008? Just asking cause it appears to be a smaller size drum. Lots of work you have going on there. Good Luck.
Looks like a 2 1/2" wide shoe and drum in the picture instead of the 3" like it should be.
 

Rutjes

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I think you guys are on to something. It IS different. One of the previous owners must have swapped the complete axle for one with different drums. Explains the faded blueish tint on the diff, doesn't look like a factory color to me.

I was near the truck today so went and got a close-up photo.

IMG_20190727_093703.jpg
 

cucvrus

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That looks like a 14 bolt out of a 3/4 ton truck/Suburban. I seen it right away and thought why does it look so different. All is well. As long as the gears are the same ratio it will sail.
 

Rutjes

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That looks like a 14 bolt out of a 3/4 ton truck/Suburban. I seen it right away and thought why does it look so different. All is well. As long as the gears are the same ratio it will sail.
I was just thinking about the gear ratios. Will have to check that.

Ever since coming across disc brake conversion kits I have been kinda interested in them... Now even more so... What do you guys think about those? If I do get one it will be with e-brake option.
 

cucvrus

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I would be interested in seeing what the front axle looks like. I am suspecting that someone swaped the 1 ton axles for a set of 3/4 ton axles. If you were closer I have lots of parts you could scavenge thru. That fuel tank addition is a lot of work. Good Luck.
 

Rutjes

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I would be interested in seeing what the front axle looks like. I am suspecting that someone swaped the 1 ton axles for a set of 3/4 ton axles. If you were closer I have lots of parts you could scavenge thru. That fuel tank addition is a lot of work. Good Luck.
I'll try and snap some pics of the front axle tomorrow. Pretty sure I identified it as a D60 once.

I thought all 14-bolts and D60s where 1-ton axles. What are the differences with their 3/4-ton counterparts then? Besides brake size I guess.
 

Sharecropper

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Paris KY
Ever since coming across disc brake conversion kits I have been kinda interested in them... Now even more so... What do you guys think about those? If I do get one it will be with e-brake option.
I consider rear disc brakes one of the best improvements I have made on my M1028. It was the first thing I did when I got the truck in 2010. I bought my kit from TSM in Colorado. It included the 1978 Cadillac El Dorado calipers which have the emergency brake option. My truck will stop on a dime going forward or backward, wet or dry.

https://www.tsmmfg.net/general-motors-8-lug-14-bolt-semi-complete-rear-disc-brake-kit-2631e.html

While you are at it, you should also consider removing the rear proportioning valve. GM issued a Bulletin in 1988 to remove the thing. 88-320-5 dated August 3, 1988 should be available from any GM dealership. If not, let me know and I will see if I can find it. I removed mine and now I have equal brake pressure to front and back discs.
 

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CivilEGR

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Detroit, MI
Here's a quick question. On the water pump, when installed, on the passengers side, there is an unused port. Mine has a plug in it with an indented square head. Any idea what size that is so I can get it out to install a temp probe?
 
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