What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

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D6T

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Thanks for the reply. I am not sure how to post pics.

The pins I am referring to are the 2 pins that attach the plow assembly to the plow frame on the truck (at the end of the A frame). I am running an old Meyers plow.

I have tried all kinds of pins, actual Myers pins, hitch pins from the farm supply store, and pins for reciever hitches, plus a variety is spring clips on the pins, but still manage to lose them quite often. There probably isn't a better option, but I figured I would ask.

I was able to heat up the hinge bar and straighten it out enough to get it back on the truck last night, but the metal is stretched and probably won't last long. Hopefully long enough to finish my parking lot and driveway.

I have ordered a replacement hinge bar and will cut the old one off and weld the new one on when it arrives.
My CUCV plow is a Fisher Speedcaster, but I believe I know the pins you speak of...

Looking here: https://www.fisherplows.com/parts-service/parts-list/poster/mc-series-a-frame-components/

...near where the number 178 is seen, there are three holes on each side of the A-Frame. You want the spring-loaded pins that go in there, correct?

Since yours is a Meyer, let's take a peek there...

http://www.equipmentspecialistsinc.com/cms-display/meyer_parts_classic_st.html

...possibly parts 17 and 18 in that diagram?
 

Chaski

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https://www.mcmaster.com/pins

McMaster Carr has some neat looking options.




Thanks for the reply. I am not sure how to post pics.

The pins I am referring to are the 2 pins that attach the plow assembly to the plow frame on the truck (at the end of the A frame). I am running an old Meyers plow.

I have tried all kinds of pins, actual Myers pins, hitch pins from the farm supply store, and pins for reciever hitches, plus a variety is spring clips on the pins, but still manage to lose them quite often. There probably isn't a better option, but I figured I would ask.

I was able to heat up the hinge bar and straighten it out enough to get it back on the truck last night, but the metal is stretched and probably won't last long. Hopefully long enough to finish my parking lot and driveway.

I have ordered a replacement hinge bar and will cut the old one off and weld the new one on when it arrives.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Virginia
Thanks for the reply. I am not sure how to post pics.
Well, we have a "Forum Tips and Tricks" section where you should be able to find a post on how to do that, but unfortunately, it's been overrun by a bad case of the stupids, so it's completely useless. (I know there's a post in there on that topic, but I couldn't find it for you, and I originally posted it!)

So here's a quick version:

First of all, make sure your profile settings for the Editor are set to WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get).

Go to your profile (Top of the page), and click on "Settings".

Profile Settings location.PNG

Now look for "General Settings" on the left (scroll down as needed)

General Settings location.PNG

Now look for the "Editor" section (scroll down as needed) and make sure the radio button is set for WYSISYG.

WYSISYG setting in General Settings.PNG


Now you are ready to post piktoors, lahk us'n ex spurts! :mrgreen:

So, once that is done, when you create a post (or reply to one), you'll see the editing bar at the top of your reply window. See that Insert Image button there? Mash that puppy!

Insert Image button.jpg

This will pop up a dialog box. It usually comes up (for me, at least) thinking I want to link to a URL. Nah, I wanna upload from my computer, so I'll click that tab.

Insert Image Dialog Box.jpg

That will change it to look like this guy. Hit the "Browse" button (blue arrow). Once you have browsed to your picture, select it, and hit the "Upload Files" text there (yellow box) that should look like a button, but doesn't, because somebody doesn't know how to build an interface properly.

Insert Image Dialog Box 2.jpg

Bingo. There you have it! :beer:

Now, all y'all of the rest of you, bookmark this post so you can just point people to it. (Click the little number on the post to the top right and copy that URL. It will always take you to this exact post, not just this thread.)
 

Another Ahab

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Well, we have a "Forum Tips and Tricks" section where you should be able to find a post on how to do that, but unfortunately, it's been overrun by a bad case of the stupids, so it's completely useless. (I know there's a post in there on that topic, but I couldn't find it for you, and I originally posted it!)
:jumpin::funny:
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
A Kubota should fire up at -25. Mine always did. Try starting it without that thing. Kubota's are made to take on the world. I removed the in line coolant heater because it was just there. The prongs on the heater element were corroded right off. One time it was cold and fired right up. I went to coil the cord up and the cord fell from the engine. It hadn't been working in a long time. It was a pcycological thing. I eliminated it and actually glow it the 60 - 90 seconds. That little glow plug indicator does glow RED HOT. Just teasing. Do as you must. I have a Yanmar diesel engine on my log splitter that I pull start. Today is one of them days. Happy Holidays.
 

Miah

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now that we're back.

Installed updated gp temp sensor & pigtail yesterday & managed to get it titled & tagged this afternoon so i'm officially street legal.
 
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cucvrus

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When is the last time it got to -25 below in Jonestown?
I travel to Sullivan/Bradford county PA all the time. We have a manual Kubota B7100 up there and it gets quite cold in winter. Exact time and date i don't know. But I used the tractor in Lopez PA to clear snow and get wood and it was -30. I had the battery inside over night and it fired the tractor after glowing the plugs about 90 seconds. Rare ocasion but it happened. If kept inside out of the wind it always seems to help with most vehicles. Even facing a wall with the front end seems to help. But with the CUCV's coolant heater was all I ever used and very seldom. Happy Holidays. Don't make me get the grinch out after you. https://www.citizensvoice.com/news/cold-temperatures-the-norm-for-sullivan-county-community-1.1826413
 

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TechnoWeenie

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I only needed 12 Bosch glow plugs to replace the SWELLmans that were 35 yrs old. Damn tabs kept breaking.. known issue apparently.

Pulled the dash apart, painted the back of the cluster gloss white, replaced with LEDs except GEN bulbs... Bought a 2 pack of Bosch 194s... 1 of which was DOA.... ~SIGH~. It's a bulb.. how hard is it to not screw up? Apparently Bosch isn't the company it used to be.

Upgraded factory battery cables, bypassed GP resistor....then forgot I needed to replace the GP relay too.... So, truck wouldn't start.... gotta tackle that and add a manual GP switch today...
 

LT67

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Bowdon, GA
Didn't do anything to the 86 M1008... I've had the 86 M1008 since late July 2018 and all I've used it for was to run errands. Up until the other day, I haven't had it no further than 12 miles from the house. Well, the other day the ole truck got pressed into daily driver duty for work. I filled up the tank and put 136 miles on it in one day. Most of the mileage was country highways driving right at 55mph. Getting the old truck out and running it for a few hours was what it needed. By the end of the day I could tell the truck was running much better and smoother. Good times..
 

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rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Didn't do anything to the 86 M1008... I've had the 86 M1008 since late July 2018 and all I've used it for was to run errands. Up until the other day, I haven't had it no further than 12 miles from the house. Well, the other day the ole truck got pressed into daily driver duty for work. I filled up the tank and put 136 miles on it in one day. Most of the mileage was country highways driving right at 55mph. Getting the old truck out and running it for a few hours was what it needed. By the end of the day I could tell the truck was running much better and smoother. Good times..
Just like the rest of us, a little exercise goes a long way for preventive maintenance .
 

SDJunkMan

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Went to start the 1009 yesterday and just got a click. Charged the batteries, didn't seem to help. Found a loose connection on one of the batteries and tightened it up, still no luck. Found a crappy crimp fix a PO did on a large pink wire coming out of the fuse box that looks like it goes to the starter and tried to fix it but it's too cold out for my soldering gun to heat it up enough so I put a crimp connection on for now, still no luck. There is a female connector between the engine and firewall that has two large pink wires going in one side and what looks like a resistor or a doide jabbed in it completing the curciut, doesn't look right, is that supposed to be there?

I looked under the TM's for a wiring diagram, but didn't see one. I know someone has mentioned one before, am I looking in the wrong place for it?

is there anything unusual about the 24 volt system that I should be checking?
 

chevymike

Member
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San Diego, CA
Went to start the 1009 yesterday and just got a click. Charged the batteries, didn't seem to help. Found a loose connection on one of the batteries and tightened it up, still no luck. Found a crappy crimp fix a PO did on a large pink wire coming out of the fuse box that looks like it goes to the starter and tried to fix it but it's too cold out for my soldering gun to heat it up enough so I put a crimp connection on for now, still no luck. There is a female connector between the engine and firewall that has two large pink wires going in one side and what looks like a resistor or a doide jabbed in it completing the curciut, doesn't look right, is that supposed to be there?

I looked under the TM's for a wiring diagram, but didn't see one. I know someone has mentioned one before, am I looking in the wrong place for it?

is there anything unusual about the 24 volt system that I should be checking?
Have you checked the starter relay under the dash? Those commonly go bad. Search Doghead Relay for the way to upgrade this part.
 
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