What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

LT67

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Bowdon, GA
Didn't do anything to the 86 M1008... I've had the 86 M1008 since late July 2018 and all I've used it for was to run errands. Up until the other day, I haven't had it no further than 12 miles from the house. Well, the other day the ole truck got pressed into daily driver duty for work. I filled up the tank and put 136 miles on it in one day. Most of the mileage was country highways driving right at 55mph. Getting the old truck out and running it for a few hours was what it needed. By the end of the day I could tell the truck was running much better and smoother. Good times..
 

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rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Didn't do anything to the 86 M1008... I've had the 86 M1008 since late July 2018 and all I've used it for was to run errands. Up until the other day, I haven't had it no further than 12 miles from the house. Well, the other day the ole truck got pressed into daily driver duty for work. I filled up the tank and put 136 miles on it in one day. Most of the mileage was country highways driving right at 55mph. Getting the old truck out and running it for a few hours was what it needed. By the end of the day I could tell the truck was running much better and smoother. Good times..
Just like the rest of us, a little exercise goes a long way for preventive maintenance .
 

SDJunkMan

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Rapid City/SD
Went to start the 1009 yesterday and just got a click. Charged the batteries, didn't seem to help. Found a loose connection on one of the batteries and tightened it up, still no luck. Found a crappy crimp fix a PO did on a large pink wire coming out of the fuse box that looks like it goes to the starter and tried to fix it but it's too cold out for my soldering gun to heat it up enough so I put a crimp connection on for now, still no luck. There is a female connector between the engine and firewall that has two large pink wires going in one side and what looks like a resistor or a doide jabbed in it completing the curciut, doesn't look right, is that supposed to be there?

I looked under the TM's for a wiring diagram, but didn't see one. I know someone has mentioned one before, am I looking in the wrong place for it?

is there anything unusual about the 24 volt system that I should be checking?
 

chevymike

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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San Diego, CA
Went to start the 1009 yesterday and just got a click. Charged the batteries, didn't seem to help. Found a loose connection on one of the batteries and tightened it up, still no luck. Found a crappy crimp fix a PO did on a large pink wire coming out of the fuse box that looks like it goes to the starter and tried to fix it but it's too cold out for my soldering gun to heat it up enough so I put a crimp connection on for now, still no luck. There is a female connector between the engine and firewall that has two large pink wires going in one side and what looks like a resistor or a doide jabbed in it completing the curciut, doesn't look right, is that supposed to be there?

I looked under the TM's for a wiring diagram, but didn't see one. I know someone has mentioned one before, am I looking in the wrong place for it?

is there anything unusual about the 24 volt system that I should be checking?
Have you checked the starter relay under the dash? Those commonly go bad. Search Doghead Relay for the way to upgrade this part.
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
There is a female connector between the engine and firewall that has two large pink wires going in one side and what looks like a resistor or a diode jabbed in it completing the circuit, doesn't look right, is that supposed to be there?

Yes that diode is supposed to be there. I know it looks home grown but it was there since new. I think the starter may be the problem. And before you go and cut the starter relay harness apart get another relay and try that. I have CUCV's for 25 years and never used anything but the stock relay. NAPA AR746. Plug and go. I had a member state they make a heavier plug in relay from NAPA. The AR746 always worked for my CUCV's. Keeping the battery's strong and the starting system healthy is the main key to avoid the relay melt downs. I mean they lasted over 30 years. Happy Holidays.
 

SDJunkMan

Member
33
11
8
Location
Rapid City/SD
There is a female connector between the engine and firewall that has two large pink wires going in one side and what looks like a resistor or a diode jabbed in it completing the circuit, doesn't look right, is that supposed to be there?

Yes that diode is supposed to be there. I know it looks home grown but it was there since new. I think the starter may be the problem. And before you go and cut the starter relay harness apart get another relay and try that. I have CUCV's for 25 years and never used anything but the stock relay. NAPA AR746. Plug and go. I had a member state they make a heavier plug in relay from NAPA. The AR746 always worked for my CUCV's. Keeping the battery's strong and the starting system healthy is the main key to avoid the relay melt downs. I mean they lasted over 30 years. Happy Holidays.
Thanks for the reply. I tested the relay and it seems to be working fine, guess I will drop the starter and check it out.

The wires that I mentioned that had been spliced on the engine side of the firewall were purple, not pink, looked at them again this morning without the sun shining on them.
 

cucvrus

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Fairly easy to change the starter. Make sure the support bracket is in place. The small wire is an 11/32" on a direct drive starter and 5/16" on a gear reduction starter. The starter bolters are metric M10 x 1.5 with 15mm hex heads. I would replace the bolts if you have new ones available. If not reuse them and replace them at your earliest convenience. They are METRIC. as is the support bracket bolt into the block. Be Safe and Good Luck. Happy Holidays.
 

SDJunkMan

Member
33
11
8
Location
Rapid City/SD
Fairly easy to change the starter. Make sure the support bracket is in place. The small wire is an 11/32" on a direct drive starter and 5/16" on a gear reduction starter. The starter bolters are metric M10 x 1.5 with 15mm hex heads. I would replace the bolts if you have new ones available. If not reuse them and replace them at your earliest convenience. They are METRIC. as is the support bracket bolt into the block. Be Safe and Good Luck. Happy Holidays.
Are the starter bolts special bolts or something that is availible locally?
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Special bolts. You can get them at a GM dealer or a parts store. But like I said. I would use the old ones till you get new ones if you must. I often use old ones and I change them also. I look them over. I had new ones broken as well as old ones. So no GOLDEN rule that solves all issues. it's a luck of the draw. And if you own a 30+ year old truck you have a good chance of needing repairs on a regular basis. It goes with the vintage hard used and often abused CUCV. happy Holidays and GOOD LUCK. You will need it with this old iron. Love them but not as daily drivers.
 

SDJunkMan

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Location
Rapid City/SD
Ok, I'll lokfor new bolts. Got the starter off this morning (what a pain in the backside, my fat hands don't fit in those tight spaces), taking it to the shop to have it tested. Looking at the support bracket and wondering if this the correct one or something someone cobbled together.
IMG_20191220_125513.jpgIMG_20191220_125455.jpg
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Ok, I'll lokfor new bolts. Got the starter off this morning (what a pain in the backside, my fat hands don't fit in those tight spaces), taking it to the shop to have it tested. Looking at the support bracket and wondering if this the correct one or something someone cobbled together.
View attachment 785577View attachment 785578
That is a 28MT gear reduction starter. That bracket will work. I made plenty of them myself. Then about 5 years ago I had a machine shop make me up 10. Since then I have come across several new stock ones for the stock direct drive starter. That bracket is fine if it is tight it will do the same thing. Happy Holidays.
 

SDJunkMan

Member
33
11
8
Location
Rapid City/SD
That is a 28MT gear reduction starter. That bracket will work. I made plenty of them myself. Then about 5 years ago I had a machine shop make me up 10. Since then I have come across several new stock ones for the stock direct drive starter. That bracket is fine if it is tight it will do the same thing. Happy Holidays.
I thought it looked home made, but it is tight. I will use it for now, but may look for the correct one. Is the original bracket specific to the CUCV, or could I find one on a diesel pickup?

Starter tested OK, but I'm going to have them open it up and freshen it up while it is out since it is making a little noise.

I'm thinking that there is a voltage drop that is causing the starter to not engage, there are several splices in the wiring, so I am going to try to clean the wiring up and replace what I can while I am waiting for the starter to come back from the shop. It sounds like the starter realy is known for sticking, but could it also be causing the voltage drop? Might have to do the doghead relay swap if cleaning up the wiring doesn't fix the problem. Starter shop recommended a relay that mounts near the starter that would greatly reduce the amount of wiring that would have to carry the 24 volts to energize the starter, but I really don't want to make a bunch of changes to the wiring if I don't have to.
 

Miah

Member
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Location
Kansas City-ish, MO
Part # for the GR starter bracket is 23502557, is different part # than the standard drive starter bracket which if memory serves was discontinued & no longer widely available.
 

LT67

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Location
Bowdon, GA
I had a Police M1009 back in 2012. Bought it at the local auction. It had this same A/C unit. And yes it was all jacked up. I removed every stich of it and returned it to stock. I think the guys that installed had no mechanical knowledge. Bolts were missing and yes pulley alignment was way off. The belt was off and the system was discharged. To me it did not belong there and I removed it. I know a few years back a member here had the M1009. He posted pictures of it. They drove the truck a total of about 70 miles in 2 years because it was so unreliable. The Police Chief thanked me for buying it. He received a Ford Explorer Utility to replace it. He said it was nothing but trouble and lost all the belts several times. I do know the feeling. I think it would work if properly installed but I wasn't the guy for that job. It was so much easier to remove it and scrap it. Happy Holidays. Good Luck on your current issue.
I can already see that some fabricating work on the brackets for the AC will have to be done. One of the reasons I bought the truck was because of the AC added to it. Here in Ga the summer can get stifling hot and humid... think sauna like conditions. AC is a must have at times. Plus I keep that truck around for the sole fact that my 5ft 4in tall Mama can get in and out of it when she needs a 4wd with AC.
 

ProfessorJ

New member
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Location
Roosevelt UT
Are the grill guard metal strips movable to close down air flow for winter weather?
They are not adjustable, but thought long about that very thing. Conclusion: to many moving parts to try to maintain in a harsh environment, especially vibration, when a simple piece of cardboard or canvas slid in behind would accomplish the same goal. Have used my coveralls many times fo this purpose, upper part of the coveralls for extreme cold and just the legs down each side of the radiator for moderate cold (it works).
The 5/8 bow shackles on the top are braced through the radiator core support to the frame on each side of the engine, the grill guard is very solid (no crumple zones here).
 
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