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I wanted something that was more designed for interstate speeds. My m1009 does 65-70 alright, but the cucv ii is obviously better. The cucv ii also has AC that works...CUCV 1 gets my vote. The other ones not very resilient to off road use, abuse and hard use. It is just a civilian built Tahoe that was upfitted by GM Military. Good Luck. Be Safe.
A little further investigation...I just now looked on Parker Racor's website and confirmed that the 660 ports are 3/8"-18 NPT. You might want to verify that the fittings you have are actually 3/8" NPT and that the female orfices have not been opened/rethreaded by somebody else. If it were me I would try a hardware store fitting which is confirmed to be 3/8" NPT to verify the threads in the filter.
Welcome to the M1010 club. Sounds like you are going through systems and bringing them up to snuff. I have been doing the same, little by little. If you're on FB, check out my M1010 page in my signature.Step 1: Read all 437 pages of this post. Wanted to get through it all before I posted something. I'd get off work at 5, work on the M1010 until 6:30 or so, eat supper real quick and get back out after until 9 or so. Then I'd come in and read read read. I mostly read this post, but I'd take a break and read the TPMs.
First off, thanks everyone for this great post I have learned a lot.
Over the past 3 months I've done the following:
The first thing I did was changed the factory fuel filter for a spin on type. I has having some air getting in and loosing prime. I had read about fixing the filter, put decided to go with a FM100 type with the primer pump on top. Works Great.
The very next thing was the dog head relay. While I was in the dash area I took the gauges out, cleaned everything, replaced bulbs, etc. It's nice to have turn signal indicators again(can't hear the clicker over the clatter).
The next big thing was swapping the 24volt alternators for 2 isolated ground 12volt alternators. The DUVAC was already removed when I received the truck. I replaced the belts while I was at it. Put in all new wiring between alternators, batteries and bus bars. Someone along the way had replaced the factory wiring with stiff 2/0 wires that were either way too long or just barely long enough. I went with 4g for alternators to batteries and 2g between batteries and to bus bars. I think cleaning the bus bar and new tight connections have made it start much better. When I first got the old girl, she'd turned over for 2-3 seconds and fire up, now she starts before you have a chance to let go of the key.
I changed the oil and greased everything. Started removing all the wasp nests I could see, I'm sure there are more....
I removed the rubber floor covering and insulation, have some surface rust in places, but luckily it's solid I removed the door panels and used a hot air gun to bring the color back. Not perfect but a big improvement. Cleaned lubed the window mechanism. I need a lot of rubber parts replaced in the doors. I'm hopeful to work on that this winter when I'll have more time to take apart the vent windows.
Next step is get some new tires and start driving her more. Tires are over 20 years old, figure it's probably time for some new ones. Looking forward to driving her on some longer errands.
Lucky you! Now, only thing left is to read the 18,XXX threads in the CUCV section and the 761 threads in the CUCV Hot Rodding and Modification section and you'll be all caught up! Well, then there is the matter of the TM's....Step 1: Read all 437 pages of this post. Wanted to get through it all before I posted something. I'd get off work at 5, work on the M1010 until 6:30 or so, eat supper real quick and get back out after until 9 or so. Then I'd come in and read read read. I mostly read this post, but I'd take a break and read the TPMs.
I'm working on reading them all. At least a quick skim of the threads. hahaLucky you! Now, only thing left is to read the 18,XXX threads in the CUCV section and the 761 threads in the CUCV Hot Rodding and Modification section and you'll be all caught up! Well, then there is the matter of the TM's....
Joking aside, sounds like you've put a lot of work into your rig and would be fun to see some pictures. Start a thread if you have time, would be fun to follow along.
I'm working on reading them all. At least a quick skim of the threads. haha
My bad, you already have. Nice truck by the way.... Joking aside, sounds like you've put a lot of work into your rig and would be fun to see some pictures. Start a thread if you have time, would be fun to follow along.
From looking at the pictures you have used an aerosol spray can to apply the primer. You do not have enough mil's https://nitcnrcsbase-www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_040198.pdfWow, 2nd time I had to skip pages to find this thread. Nobody working on their trucks anymore?
Last evening I spent a couple hours wire wheeling the D60. A bit more detailing and it's ready for epoxy primer.
View attachment 804703
And here's the rust forming on the frame I was talking about before:
View attachment 804700 View attachment 804701 View attachment 804702
It's supposed to be epoxy primer. Maybe I should've painted it earlier. I expected some to form around hard to reach nooks and crannies, but not on pretty much flat surfaces. Anyway, what would you guys do? Sand the rusty spots away and apply another coat?
Actually, I had it sandblasted and primed by a coating company. It's been a while, I doubt they'd "warranty" it by now...From looking at the pictures you have used an aerosol spray can to apply the primer. You do not have enough mil's https://nitcnrcsbase-www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_040198.pdf
Aerosol cans are not the correct way to apply a epoxy primer on a bare metal frame. Unless you apply the correct coat in the correct uniform thickness you will always have rust bleed thru. You went thru a lot of work. Like I always say. The paint and finish is only 1% of the end result. It is a very important 1% and you must use the proper finish and sealers to achieve the desired finish. I would scuff and get a HVLP cup gun and get a thicker coat of epoxy sealer on that frame. Good Luck. The humidity will rust blast3ed bare metal in a few hours.
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