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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2


Oh. Good thing you found that. I had a pack rat chew on my starter wire. he died from the 24 volts but then the wire grounded to the frame. That ended up frying my alternators and a few fusible links until I found the grounded wire.

Good luck. I'm glad you found the problem.
Thanks! Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Rats can wreak havoc on wiring. I’m undoing some poor work from the past, such as bolts left out during service. Once I get this vehicle sorted, I expect to use it daily. Many people scoff at using such a vehicle for daily duty, but I am in love with this amazing rig!


I’ve been dailying the M1010 for a couple of weeks now. It’s running great from what I can tell. My plan is to continue refreshing stuff as I get time. I want to replace all the old rubber stuff (brake wheel cylinders, hoses, etc.). Also planning to get some camping trips in during this fall season.


Well-known member
Leland, N.C.
1. Fired the truck back up for the first time in months to take a video of my motor smoking issue. Posted the video on my rebuild thread for opinions, gonna send it to the guy likely gonna rebuild my IP in the coming weeks. Would love some more opinions on that if anyone has a minute to check out my thread: LINK TO THREAD POST.

2. Been tracing the GEN2 exciter circuit to see why I don't get a light on the dash/0V at the brown exciter wire at alternator. Replaced 30A fuse with 10A fuse, fuse had 24V at fuseblock. Removed a wire PO had jammed in the "always 24V slot" - not sure what he had wired up to that but it was getting 24V. Next steps are checking the light and relay.

3. Removed the rear driveshaft and got both ujoints off (the caps fell off the backside ujoint as I took the driveshaft off, figure I may as well just replace both at the yoke and at the rear diff). Scraped as much of the grime and surface rust off the driveshafts, likely going to paint them black. Would look a little nicer, like I've put a little extra effort into it all. Thanks to @adf5565 I know that I need a MOOG 280 (front driveshaft at front diff), and two MOOG 232s (ends of rear driveshaft). Found them pretty cheap on RockAuto/Summit. Spicer equivalents are a 1350 (rear driveshaft ujoints), and Spicer 1310 (front at front diff). Either way it's way pricier to go through Autozone, Advance, or O'Reillys by me for them (Like 90-100 bucks vs. about 50-60 at time of writing).

Considering an NP208 rebuild, mine is leaking pretty badly. Likely multiple failing seals (out of the tailshaft, all over the skidplate, lots on the floor, the whole tcase looked wet).


Active member
It was the last ride for the ole worn out 6.2 diesel. Drove it down to the shop to drop it off. When it comes back it'll have a Vortec 350 in it.

* When I bought the 86' M1008 in June 2018, I knew I was eventually going to have to swap out the engine. I can't complain, I got 5yrs out of the ole 6.2 diesel. Good times..

What size tires are you running? looks killer


Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Edmond, Oklahoma
Changed engine oil and filter.
Mobil1 Delvac 15w-40
Wix 51061
Only Drove the CUCV about 2600 miles last year.

Greased all the fittings.
Checked rest of fluids. All good.
Air and fuel filters were changed last oil change. Their still good.
Fuel filter checked for water. None found.

Wiper blades good.
Tire pressure good
Can of Seafoam in the topped off tank.

Installed LED tail light stop/turn bulbs.
(Side marker LEDs were installed long ago)
All exterior bulbs are now LED with the exception of the front turn signals.
I have the LED bulbs but still need to get a LED flasher(s).
The turn signals still work now but if I installed the new bulbs in the fronts, they wouldn’t without the new flashers.
New LED flashers ordered.

Loaded up my dog and my trusty Winchester 1894 lever action and took a satisfying drive around the ranch.

Gotta love old trucks…….!
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