What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Spence

Member
26
70
13
Location
Massachusetts
Oh. Good thing you found that. I had a pack rat chew on my starter wire. he died from the 24 volts but then the wire grounded to the frame. That ended up frying my alternators and a few fusible links until I found the grounded wire.

Good luck. I'm glad you found the problem.
Thanks! Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Rats can wreak havoc on wiring. I’m undoing some poor work from the past, such as bolts left out during service. Once I get this vehicle sorted, I expect to use it daily. Many people scoff at using such a vehicle for daily duty, but I am in love with this amazing rig!
 

Spence

Member
26
70
13
Location
Massachusetts
I’ve been dailying the M1010 for a couple of weeks now. It’s running great from what I can tell. My plan is to continue refreshing stuff as I get time. I want to replace all the old rubber stuff (brake wheel cylinders, hoses, etc.). Also planning to get some camping trips in during this fall season.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
163
259
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
1. Fired the truck back up for the first time in months to take a video of my motor smoking issue. Posted the video on my rebuild thread for opinions, gonna send it to the guy likely gonna rebuild my IP in the coming weeks. Would love some more opinions on that if anyone has a minute to check out my thread: LINK TO THREAD POST.

2. Been tracing the GEN2 exciter circuit to see why I don't get a light on the dash/0V at the brown exciter wire at alternator. Replaced 30A fuse with 10A fuse, fuse had 24V at fuseblock. Removed a wire PO had jammed in the "always 24V slot" - not sure what he had wired up to that but it was getting 24V. Next steps are checking the light and relay.

3. Removed the rear driveshaft and got both ujoints off (the caps fell off the backside ujoint as I took the driveshaft off, figure I may as well just replace both at the yoke and at the rear diff). Scraped as much of the grime and surface rust off the driveshafts, likely going to paint them black. Would look a little nicer, like I've put a little extra effort into it all. Thanks to @adf5565 I know that I need a MOOG 280 (front driveshaft at front diff), and two MOOG 232s (ends of rear driveshaft). Found them pretty cheap on RockAuto/Summit. Spicer equivalents are a 1350 (rear driveshaft ujoints), and Spicer 1310 (front at front diff). Either way it's way pricier to go through Autozone, Advance, or O'Reillys by me for them (Like 90-100 bucks vs. about 50-60 at time of writing).

Considering an NP208 rebuild, mine is leaking pretty badly. Likely multiple failing seals (out of the tailshaft, all over the skidplate, lots on the floor, the whole tcase looked wet).
 

Finnegan1008

Member
84
91
18
Location
Connecticut
It was the last ride for the ole worn out 6.2 diesel. Drove it down to the shop to drop it off. When it comes back it'll have a Vortec 350 in it.

* When I bought the 86' M1008 in June 2018, I knew I was eventually going to have to swap out the engine. I can't complain, I got 5yrs out of the ole 6.2 diesel. Good times..

What size tires are you running? looks killer
 

vanaisa

Well-known member
233
310
63
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Drove my 1009 to welders shop (with one very large whisky). I never lerned welding skills and in my age it is too late already :)
After bodywork
After bodywork and paint it is my time - shocks, bushings brakes, harmonic balancer, oils etc.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks