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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

gottaluvit

Active member
Worked it hard yesterday. Maxed out trailer and truck putting 2700 lbs. on each. Braked good and handled turns descently. Still felt I had to ease off for turns and kept a very clear distance from vehicles in front of me. The M1008 did great with the only fail being a rim bolt pop on the HMMWV rim that actually don't belong on this truck anyway. When the pictured bolt popped it sounded like a .22 rifle, I looked into the side mirror and saw it ricochet across the road. Pulled over, finding the issue, and kept speed under 45 through the last county before getting home. Back roads only with this truck. Time to throw a new trailer wheel/tire on.

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True Knight

Active member
668
170
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Those look very noisy.
So far they have been really smooth and quiet.

Good LOW speed mud tire but they don’t handle long highway speeds very well. Not that the cucv is a high speed vehicle but I bought a set & ran them on a newer 3/4 ton diesel
3 of them separated on longer 75-80 mph runs. Took them back, they warrantied 1 with a $50 credit ����.Put 3 new on & 2 of those separated (all less than 5000 on them).Pulled ALL 4, bought a set of hankooks & have been happy ever since.
I do run a heavy 3/4 ton 4x4 with trailer (10-12k) 75-80mph extended lengths of time (5+ hours)
They DO NOT handle weight or speed at all !!!
Just watch them closely !
They are E/121 load rated (3,195 lbs), and Q speed rated (99 mph), and all the reviews I saw for them were good. But I will watch them just as we should with any tire. (I don't drive that fast often or with that heavy of a load)

Nice and what size are they and did you get new rims too.
They are 37x13.5x17. No, I've had these wheels since 2010.

How did you mount that spare under the back?
It's definitely a tight fit! I got one of the steel cable type spare tire carriers from a newer Chevy truck and put it up under there (the stock CUCV tire carrier was removed long ago). I use the steel cable tire carrier to lift the tire into place and then use a racket strap to help secure the weight of the spare. It wedges between the rear shackle hangers and has about 1" between the tow hitch and a few inches between the differential cover.
 

ridenby

Member
144
18
18
Location
Frankfort,Ky
Switched to two yellow top batterys , moved mounts. Took her out wheeling with a bunch of jeeps. Went on the not so hard group,35inch tire. I run 37s. Good choice,no real problems. 7000+lbs following 4500lbs jeeps was interesting. Confirmed why v-belts are of the past and big wide belts are where it is at. 102_1332.jpg102_1422.jpgFollowed these fellows all day. It was a blast. Burnt 7 gals of fuel in 46miles. Other than belts not liking water/mud,no problems.
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
Changed the fluid in the transfer case, swapped rear driveshafts so I can get my better one balanced, replaced transfer case mounts and secured some transmission cooler hoses a little better. Winter is here so I need to get my snow ride ready.
 

joshuak

Active member
747
214
43
Location
Slower shore, DE
This weekend I was cleaning some rims for my CUCV, I looked up for a second and next thing I know I felt something was pulling at my shirt (was tucked in).

IMG_3111.jpg



Stay safe folks.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
9
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Last edited:

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
16
Location
Linsdale, TN
Dude! Wire wheels are EVIL STOP USING THEM! here's what use, they're much safer, work way better, and are gentler on the part........https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-60571.html
Thanks, I gonna look into those. I used to sell welding supplies and saw many a customer injured by wire wheels. I sold several "lightweight" leather welding coats as protection. I can't tell you how many times the wire drew blood just from handling them.
"Work smarter with less ER time..."

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Drock

New member
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Location
Eatonton GA
Thanks, I gonna look into those. I used to sell welding supplies and saw many a customer injured by wire wheels. I sold several "lightweight" leather welding coats as protection. I can't tell you how many times the wire drew blood just from handling them.
"Work smarter with less ER time..."

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Yeah after discovering these the only wire wheel I have in my life is a small one on my drill press. I use it to quickly clean bolt threads, beyond that I have no use for them anymore.2cents
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
16
Location
Linsdale, TN
Yeah after discovering these the only wire wheel I have in my life is a small one on my drill press. I use it to quickly clean bolt threads, beyond that I have no use for them anymore.2cents
I'm an old Swamp Yankee do I'll hang on to my wire wheels even if I never use them again because, someday..." lol

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Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,256
1,708
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Dude! WIRE WHEELS EVIL STOP USING THEM! here's what I use, they're much safer, work way better, and are gentler on the part........https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-60571.html
I use that type by DeWalt.
I also use a wire wheel.

The difference is a wire wheel will not sand off metal like the disks do.
Sure they clean up metal nice, but you can also see where it removes metal with each pass.
No matter how easy you are on the downforce, it still takes it off.
Wire wheel will not do that.

They both clean metal, but in two totally different ways.
Each has its own purpose and recommend use.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
9
0
Location
Eatonton GA
I use that type by DeWalt.
I also use a wire wheel.

The difference is a wire wheel will not sand off metal like the disks do.
Sure they clean up metal nice, but you can also see where it removes metal with each pass.
No matter how easy you are on the downforce, it still takes it off.
Wire wheel will not do that.

They both clean metal, but in two totally different ways.
Each has its own purpose and recommend use.
Your thinking of flapper grinding wheels. These are not the same at all. I've found the wire wheels are far more detrimental to the metal underneath. Mostly do to the heat they produce, especially if your working with sheet metal where warping can occur.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Edmond, Oklahoma
Well I broke something.
For the first time in over two years my M1008A1 will not start.
Cranks great, just won’t fire. Was getting harder to start the last few days.
Wet by mechanical fuel pump, so hopefully it failed or the hose is bad.
(That pre-formed weird shaped fuel hose is the only one I didn’t replace since they don’t make that special shape anymore).

To make matters worse, I have to go to my In-Laws in Arizona tomorrow, so no troubleshooting until we get back.

When it rains.......it pours.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,388
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Thanks, I gonna look into those. I used to sell welding supplies and saw many a customer injured by wire wheels. I sold several "lightweight" leather welding coats as protection. I can't tell you how many times the wire drew blood just from handling them.
"Work smarter with less ER time..."

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
During my years as a metal fabricator I got "stuck" with the wire coming off the wire wheels all the time. The worst was when the wire went into my right eye. I needed to go to the emergency eye doctor to have it removed as it screwed itself into my eye. Before anyone asks, yes I had on goggles. The wire snuck itself into the vented side opening. The problem is just like "Tinstar" mentioned. The other style sanders actually remove metal, while the wire wheel doesn't.
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
16
Location
Linsdale, TN
Your thinking of flapper grinding wheels. These are not the same at all. I've found the wire wheels are far more detrimental to the metal underneath. Mostly do to the heat they produce, especially if your working with sheet metal where warping can occur.
I bought two of them yesterday. They are now waiting in the tool box for use.

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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,285
9,647
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Well I broke something.
For the first time in over two years my M1008A1 will not start.
Cranks great, just won’t fire. Was getting harder to start the last few days.
Wet by mechanical fuel pump, so hopefully it failed or the hose is bad.
(That pre-formed weird shaped fuel hose is the only one I didn’t replace since they don’t make that special shape anymore).

To make matters worse, I have to go to my In-Laws in Arizona tomorrow, so no troubleshooting until we get back.

When it rains.......it pours.
You can make a new fuel feed hose with 3/8" fuel hose and some split loom. It will be a bit longer but it will work fine. I made a few. I have done a few updates with a new metal line. A few look like the engine was pulled while the fuel line was still hooked up. Bent the metal line up and then kinked it. They just hammered it down. I removed the line and made a shorter metal line with a barbed/beaded edge fitting like the original one. If you want see pictures let me know. But I would remove the old line. Check it closely. Cut the ends of the hose off where the clamps were and reinstall with fresh clamps. Good Luck. But if the pumps wet. You may as well change that.
 
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