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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

Ambeihl

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Well the labeling leads me to believe that is the polarity protection device. Diodes in an aluminum heatsync that only allow current to flow one direction. The only reason to bypass it would be if you suspected the diode was bad.

But lets play what if... So your are a new mechanic fresh out of school and full of “knowledge” and hookup batteries backward and of course nothing works. Then your vast intelect deduces that the polarity box has mysteriously gone bad as you have voltage up to the batt terminal(wrong polarity but it is present) but not onto the load terminal, so you bypass it and succeed in accomplishing what the box was put in there to prevent, and now things REALLY dont work as you have let the magic smoke out of them...

That little jumper by itself shouldnt cause any problem as current is supposed to flow between those two terminals if the batteries are hooked up correctly. Add in backward connected batteries however and I think that probably caused your issues...
Yea that makes sense to me. I guess that would explain the melted grounding bolt that I had to replace and the tcm that was smoking when it got any power.


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coachgeo

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... Perfect day to shoot Lizard Skin soundproofing!
Your evil mean person.... shooting all those poor sweet little big eye lizards just to soundproof your truck.
lizardCrp.jpg

seriously though...... good job...... Look forward to hearing about your results
 
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Ohiobenz

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Seville, OH
20180903_162020.jpg

Looking for flooring thoughts. My green padded vinyl is in very good shape but I hate to dye it black....
For those who did camper conversions, what did you do?
 

SMFD

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Hey guys we are a fire department that just recently aquired a m-1083 and it need a right hand outer door handle and were wondering if any one caould point us in the right direction
 

coachgeo

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Looking for flooring thoughts. My green padded vinyl is in very good shape but I hate to dye it black....
For those who did camper conversions, what did you do?
I think most scraped them all together or just put it back as is on top of all the new they installed without a color change. IMHO I would NOT go black..... truck gets hot enough as it is. I would suggest painting and putting it all back, Suggest though that in in the footwell, masking it off where the feet rest.... and paint all the rest desert tan, let mask keep the foot wear area green. If your going to add floorboard mats..... then just paint it all.

If you can / make install drains so you can water hose out the truck... I would do that... assuming you do not add glue on liner sound and temp insulation stuff on top of your lizard skin. You can find floor board plugs, duck bills or other type drains you can add into floor areas where it would drain too. Think originally there were duck bills but recall no one's been able to find a replacement. so maybe seal,weld up old holes you cant find right size drain to fill and insert all new. I would do that now. For either type of drains or plugs.... you may want to grind way lizard skin in a spot bigger than the plug then paint appropriately. Drains/plugs may not seal well sitting on top of the ruff lizard skin is why that suggestion and the transition from lizard skin - to flat paint spot - to drain hole in middle of that, may help it drain. Especially if you do not have tool to punch in a recessed area around the drain hole.

Just my .02... which many consider worthless lol
 
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Ohiobenz

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Thanks for the thoughts!
I was pleasantly surprised yesterday at the difference in cab temps after shooting Lizard Skin inside the cab vs the day before while shooting the first coat.
I will be shooting the ceramic Lizard Skin on the roof and on top of the soundproofing underneath on the engine cover area yet, and then painting over the roof.
I've decided to keep the old floormats as additional sound/heat insulation, but will cover with fitted cut pile carpet that's easy to remove and clean. Velcro is my friend :)
 

Ohiobenz

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Seville, OH
Curious.... what was time for lizard painting?? and total time for all the needed masking in advance??
Masking time inside the cab wasn't that bad. Maybe an hour max.
I pressure washed the underneath one evening after work and shot the Lizard Skin in an evening. Probly about an hour or so each.
I shot the back wall of the cab and the floors and ceiling in a morning, and came back and shot a 2nd coat on the back that afternoon. The next day I shot final color where the panels won't cover, then 2nd coat on all the floor and engine cover/hump.
The time consumer was scraping all the old coating off, addressing the corrosion with Ospho, 3x... I bet I spent 20+ hrs and got the blisters to prove it lol.
 

Ohiobenz

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I see you put lizard skin in your doors. Did you spray them or paint roller?


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Man of few words

M1081 LVAD
I bought the Lizard Skin gun kit which worked really well. So, I sprayed everything. Doors and cab walls all have 2 coats on inside. Floors have 2 coats inside and 1 coat underneath. I'm spraying their ceramic coating underneath, on top of the soundproofing per their instructions. Also shooting the ceramic coating on the outside of the cab roof, and then painting over it....
The temp difference from last Sunday while shooting soundproof coating inside the cab, vs the next day while shooting the 2nd coat on the floor, was amazing. Both days in the 90s.
 

Ohiobenz

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Seville, OH
So I ordered a set of these today.

Screenshot_20180908-220208_Google.jpg

And one of these - I used one in my FJ Cruiser with good results. This will power all my 12v accessories in the cab.

Screenshot_20180908-221241_Chrome.jpg
 
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