What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

[fuzzytoaster]

This just in.. M1148 (though technically a M1148A1R). Pretty dang rare. I'll get into it next week to see if she will fire up. No fuel, bad batteries, etc.

 

[Another Ahab]

This just in.. M1148 (though technically a M1148A1R). Pretty dang rare. I'll get into it next week to see if she will fire up. No fuel, bad batteries, etc.

View attachment 944053

Where did you pick up that bad boy, fuzzytoaster?!

 

[fuzzytoaster]

Where did you pick up that bad boy, fuzzytoaster?!

..but seriously it's not that exciting. People contact me and we make a deal. Simple as that.

 

[GCecchetto]

Not what I have done to my 2008 M1078A1R, but will be doing now that I have finished my complete restoration of the C7. As all of us running the 370/931 tune know, the only difference between our C7's and the 370HP variant in the Stryker is the water cooled turbo, CAT part# 290-4044. Just picked this up brand new, not a reman, for $1000. It's a little over $4000 new from CAT.

 

[AKPacker]

Not what I have done to my 2008 M1078A1R, but will be doing now that I have finished my complete restoration of the C7. As all of us running the 370/931 tune know, the only difference between our C7's and the 370HP variant in the Stryker is the water cooled turbo, CAT part# 290-4044. Just picked this up brand new, not a reman, for $1000. It's a little over $4000 new from CAT.

View attachment 950421

Nice score, did you experience any issues with the stock turbo? I don't want to kill my stock turbo running the 370hp tune, but I'm assuming the liquid cooled turbo would only be needed when operating at the extreme end of the performance envelope.

 

[Another Ahab]

Not what I have done to my 2008 M1078A1R, but will be doing now that I have finished my complete restoration of the C7. As all of us running the 370/931 tune know, the only difference between our C7's and the 370HP variant in the Stryker is the water cooled turbo, CAT part# 290-4044. Just picked this up brand new, not a reman, for $1000. It's a little over $4000 new from CAT.

View attachment 950421

Yikes. $4K seems pricey.

But supposing a lot of expertise and precision going into the making of a specialty item like that.

 

[GCecchetto]

Nice score, did you experience any issues with the stock turbo? I don't want to kill my stock turbo running the 370hp tune, but I'm assuming the liquid cooled turbo would only be needed when operating at the extreme end of the performance envelope.

No issues with the stock turbo. The C7 in the stryker is crammed into a very tight armored compartment so cooling is more of an issue. It's also way heavier than our trucks and designed to operate in a climate where ambient temps north of 115+ degrees aren't uncommon.

That said, high EGT's are the death of diesels, so anything that helps manage that isn't a bad thing, aside from the addition of more coolant lines to potentially fail.

 

[Another Ahab]

And, yeah, a Grand seems a whole lot more reasonable.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Yep. The coolant lines for it are the fun part to track down. CAT can get them though some are special order and you have to wait for them to make you one. The M-ATV is actually the 370 HP variant of the C7, and the more common source - over 10,000 have been built. The Stryker uses the 350 HP variant and less than 5,000 produced.

I think that turbo is closer to $4500 from CAT. I also found one new old stock surplus for $450. I have yet to install it but I have all the parts to do so. I've got a friend with an M1088 based overland rig that has the complete M-ATV crate engine with water cooled turbo in his truck due to a cracked cylinder on the original engine.

 

[aw113sgte]

I just got a egt derate code on stock turbo ..but also had a boost sensor error as well as injector 5 current error. Haven't done the 370 tune but with the hills here and my weight over 30k making me a little nervous. May have a bad boost sensor (atmospheric failed recently) and that may have triggered the derate as it was a one time occurrence in cat et. I've seen the injector issue twice, maybe a wiring issue, hopefully not an actual injector problem.

 

[Ohiobenz]

Yep. The coolant lines for it are the fun part to track down. CAT can get them though some are special order and you have to wait for them to make you one. The M-ATV is actually the 370 HP variant of the C7, and the more common source - over 10,000 have been built. The Stryker uses the 350 HP variant and less than 5,000 produced.

I think that turbo is closer to $4500 from CAT. I also found one new old stock surplus for $450. I have yet to install it but I have all the parts to do so. I've got a friend with an M1088 based overland rig that has the complete M-ATV crate engine with water cooled turbo in his truck due to a cracked cylinder on the original engine.

I converted my '98 3116 to a watercooled CAT turbo. Made my own lines.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I would caution that the CAT water lines have flexible stainless braided sections to account for thermal expansion between the 1200 degree exhaust and the 200 degree engine. Hard piping it like that is asking for a stress fracture near one of those fittings.

 

[GCecchetto]

Yep. The coolant lines for it are the fun part to track down. CAT can get them though some are special order and you have to wait for them to make you one. The M-ATV is actually the 370 HP variant of the C7, and the more common source - over 10,000 have been built. The Stryker uses the 350 HP variant and less than 5,000 produced.

I think that turbo is closer to $4500 from CAT. I also found one new old stock surplus for $450. I have yet to install it but I have all the parts to do so. I've got a friend with an M1088 based overland rig that has the complete M-ATV crate engine with water cooled turbo in his truck due to a cracked cylinder on the original engine.

I found them in CAT SIS without issue. My experience with my local CAT dealer is if they don't have the hose/line in stock, they make it while you wait. That said, a line with a section of shaped hardline would need to be ordered. I'm hoping the coolant line for the water cooled variant doesn't use the outlet on the thermostat housing that the heater hose is connected to. Don't want to rework that as well.

Would be awesome if you could post photos from your buddy's motor showing the coolant and oil line routing.

 

[Godspeed131]

In another post https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-trailer-today.163598/post-2620153 I used the truck to hook up to the new to me trailer. Well while I had the truck out this past weekend I finally got around to dumping and changing the hydraulic oil and filter for the crane on the M1084. Did notice I have two hydraulic lines leaking on the crane so Ill get to them next along with new shoes loaded up in the bed for it.

Edit:
One more thing I forgot to post is back in July I got a set of cab airbag replacements from Mike @Xengineguy and had time to remove my worn out air bags 2 weeks ago. I haven’t had time yet to do any longer runs in the truck yet besides just bouncing around the farm but so far it feels like an improvement and at half the cost.

 

[wandering neurons]

Long story made short. The cab of my M1081, Goliath, was bent, mostly the upper half, from a partial roll-over. Had rolled onto driver’s side, started onto the roof but cargo stopped that. I’d been using the truck recently in parades with the upper half removed a la “War Pig” or “Animal Mother” configuration so…
Bought a bare M1078 cab, cut the upper half off, had the cut portion capped and a cage added as “weapons mounts”. This last weekend, started the cab removal process. Monday, brought home a new Harbor Fright 1-ton gantry crane, trolley, and fished my chain hoist out of my recovery gear. Tuesday, removed the old bent cab. Wednesday, placed the new cab and bolted the front hinge points together.
Thursday, had to use the gantry to remove the bed from wife’s pickup to replace the fuel pump that had just failed, snapped connection on the top of the pump where the hose attached.
I‘m now in the process of transferring over pneumatic parts from the old cab, they worked good, dont know condition of new cab air valves and such. Next will be wiring, seats, and interior panels.
lots of work. Did nearly all of it with basic hand tools!
Pics of disassembled cab and cab removal, installation of new cab. Wife’s bedless truck, and a beauty shot of yesterday evening’s rainbow with my horse Gus.

 

[wandering neurons]

Just have one major problem to solve: where the hooks on the back of the cab should ride on the pins on the big hoop, one fits right, the other hook won’t fit. Will get pics another day and post as a new thread.

 

[Ronmar]

Just have one major problem to solve: where the hooks on the back of the cab should ride on the pins on the big hoop, one fits right, the other hook won’t fit. Will get pics another day and post as a new thread.

Is your cab on square? The hooks are bolted on under the cab. Mine are symetrical on my arch guide pins, but my cab is rotated ~1/2” toward the left at the rear, so I need to make a little adjustment…

 

[wandering neurons]

Well, I’ll be dipped in shellack. I didn’t realize they were bolted on. I may have to elongate the bolt slots and a little relief grinding To get the hook placed right.
I think that the cab is square, it may be something else that‘s a little tweaked on the chassis following the roll. But I’ll make it work.
Thanks for pointing out the bolts!

Is your cab on square? The hooks are bolted on under the cab. Mine are symetrical on my arch guide pins, but my cab is rotated ~1/2” toward the left at the rear, so I need to make a little adjustment…