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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

SublimeMudTime

SublimeMudTime

Member
171
5
18
Location
Chaska, MN
If you want it to keep water out of the air cleaner make sure you get the elbow... The airbox where the intake is attached to the duckbill is not sealed. There is a small hole right above the cabin air intake louvers. Details are in the install instructions for the fording kit.
 
A

ari

New member
234
3
0
Location
dacula Ga
SublimeMudTime said:
If you want it to keep water out of the air cleaner make sure you get the elbow... The airbox where the intake is attached to the duckbill is not sealed. There is a small hole right above the cabin air intake louvers. Details are in the install instructions for the fording kit.
Click to expand...
I mainly installed it cause it looks cool I dont intend to deep ford the truck. At the very least it will help keep water out of the intake if I make a big splash in shallow water.
 
BLK HMMWV

BLK HMMWV

Well-known member
1,515
403
83
Location
Pasadena California
ari said:
I mainly installed it cause it looks cool I dont intend to deep ford the truck. At the very least it will help keep water out of the intake if I make a big splash in shallow water.
Click to expand...
Just curious how you plan on supporting it and why you didn't just use a factory intake pipe?
 
Wire Fox

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Oh man, what a busy weekend! Bluehummer really hooked me up with a factory new A2 rear propeller shaft for $160 and beltfed34 got an A2 front shaft to me (which ended up being trash, but I'm hoping he will work that out with me tomorrow). The good part about that front shaft was its length, which matched one I already had around but thought was too long... All in, I replaced a worn u-joint on the front, replaced the yoke on the new rear with a 27 spline for my T/C. Got all that bolted up yesterday. I also got busy with grinding a 1" offset box wrench down to a 0.28" thickness in order to fit to the injection pump's side servo plunger bolt.

Today, I started by finishing scraping the rest of the baked-in gasket from the block. With the clean, I disassembled the servo advance assembly and fought the plunger seal for a few hours. With no immediate replacement available, I just set the side plunger bolt on the drill press, installed a modified 1/2" bit, and carefully chewed into the stuck seal cup piece. After a few presses, the seal gave way and came up with the bit. After a little bit of clean up, the 20 ton press set the new seal in place, making for the easiest step of the whole day!

Back out at the HMMWV, I crawled under with a torque wrench and grease gun to ensure the drive shafts and u-joints were all proper. Then back up top, I set down some new gaskets and put the intake assembly back into place. Just for safety sake, I pulled the glow plugs and cranked the engine to ensure there was no water in the cylinders-there wasn't! At this point, everything is back together, batteries are topped up, fluids are in check, and I'm ready to crank. Unfortunately, it's not happy with me, so it took three long attempts to get the engine started. I'm sure between working on fuel systems, the small amount of water that had intruded earlier, and the gasket material dust that I couldn't keep out, it all worked together to make the start up a difficult endeavor for the engine. Once running, it idled fine and revved fine. It also stopped and restarted with no issues or complaints.

At idle with some heat building up, I got the transmission filled the rest of the way-my harbor freight pail pump also gave out on me mid job, so it switched to a messy job of pouring into a smaller container with a funnel... With it up to proper fluid pressure, I tried to put it into drive, but no dice. Don't feel any engagement at all. (Note: This is a 4L80E...I have no electronics hooked up, as I was attempting a baseline mechanical function check.). Oddly enough, reverse engages strongly. I was able to coast in neutral down my driveway, then power back up in reverse. It was actually difficult to keep it from taking off on me... I'll be hitting the books to see if I should or should not have a proper limp mode be active even without any electronic function. My hope is that the TCM being wired up will make all right with the world, but I also would like to figure out if my transmission already needs to drop for a rebuild...

EDIT: This is an important thing to really put out there as it just set in for me. Even though it's still broken and there's more work to be done, I drove my HMMWV today! That's the first time ever for me and my HMMWV. This has really come a long way.
 

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Bravojmc

Bravojmc

New member
512
5
0
Location
Palisade, Colorado
Wire Fox said:
Oh man, what a busy weekend! Bluehummer really hooked me up with a factory new A2 rear propeller shaft for $160 and beltfed34 got an A2 front shaft to me (which ended up being trash, but I'm hoping he will work that out with me tomorrow). The good part about that front shaft was its length, which matched one I already had around but thought was too long... All in, I replaced a worn u-joint on the front, replaced the yoke on the new rear with a 27 spline for my T/C. Got all that bolted up yesterday. I also got busy with grinding a 1" offset box wrench down to a 0.28" thickness in order to fit to the injection pump's side servo plunger bolt.

Today, I started by finishing scraping the rest of the baked-in gasket from the block. With the clean, I disassembled the servo advance assembly and fought the plunger seal for a few hours. With no immediate replacement available, I just set the side plunger bolt on the drill press, installed a modified 1/2" bit, and carefully chewed into the stuck seal cup piece. After a few presses, the seal gave way and came up with the bit. After a little bit of clean up, the 20 ton press set the new seal in place, making for the easiest step of the whole day!

Back out at the HMMWV, I crawled under with a torque wrench and grease gun to ensure the drive shafts and u-joints were all proper. Then back up top, I set down some new gaskets and put the intake assembly back into place. Just for safety sake, I pulled the glow plugs and cranked the engine to ensure there was no water in the cylinders-there wasn't! At this point, everything is back together, batteries are topped up, fluids are in check, and I'm ready to crank. Unfortunately, it's not happy with me, so it took three long attempts to get the engine started. I'm sure between working on fuel systems, the small amount of water that had intruded earlier, and the gasket material dust that I couldn't keep out, it all worked together to make the start up a difficult endeavor for the engine. Once running, it idled fine and revved fine. It also stopped and restarted with no issues or complaints.

At idle with some heat building up, I got the transmission filled the rest of the way-my harbor freight pail pump also gave out on me mid job, so it switched to a messy job of pouring into a smaller container with a funnel... With it up to proper fluid pressure, I tried to put it into drive, but no dice. Don't feel any engagement at all. (Note: This is a 4L80E...I have no electronics hooked up, as I was attempting a baseline mechanical function check.). Oddly enough, reverse engages strongly. I was able to coast in neutral down my driveway, then power back up in reverse. It was actually difficult to keep it from taking off on me... I'll be hitting the books to see if I should or should not have a proper limp mode be active even without any electronic function. My hope is that the TCM being wired up will make all right with the world, but I also would like to figure out if my transmission already needs to drop for a rebuild...

EDIT: This is an important thing to really put out there as it just set in for me. Even though it's still broken and there's more work to be done, I drove my HMMWV today! That's the first time ever for me and my HMMWV. This has really come a long way.
Click to expand...
GREAT TO HEAR! I'm happy for you! Keep the good work up!
 
shawnshumvee

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
erasedhammer said:
It looks like you didn't use the stock bracket that attaches the tube to the windshield. Looks like you just used a non load bearing piece of metal? Does the tube hold itself up pretty well?
Click to expand...
NOPE! No stock bracket. I made my own bracket out of a piece of aluminum extrusion. Super strong. And there is no load to bear, the pipe is Rock solid.
 
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