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Which torque multiplier ?

sac

New member
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Location
iowa
Hello all,

Had the fun task of taking off a couple of wheels on my Deuce last night, and decided I need something a little easier than cheater bar and bouncing up and down on it. So I was woundering what was recomended.

Thanks Scott
 

MtnSnow

New member
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Location
NSL, UT
Ken Tool makes them and there is several other makers that sell them on Amazon
 
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kearns

Member
39
2
8
Location
Redmond, WA
I bought this one, and am happy with it. So far I have only used it to remove/reinstall the front tires and it worked fantastic. It is heavy and feels well built and even comes with sockets and a case for a good price.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H99Y556?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

2 negatives:

1 - the plastic case will likely crack in shipping due to the weight of the tool. still works better than no case.
2 - the extension bar is some sort of soft lightweight material (aluminum maybe) it is only meant to quickly spin on/off the nuts after they're loose, but will bend/twist under a relatively light load. would be nice if it were heavier duty like the rest of the com
 

TsgtB

New member
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Location
Granbury, Tx
I used the 1:78 multiplier, and it worked great,
but with my MRAP wheels, its too big to fit between the lugs (but it was great for putting on the MRAP adapters).
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I have used the one Odcoyote posted a picture of. That is the Kentool version, they are indestructible when used right. (I know one guy that broke one, but he didn't know about the left hand, right hand lug nut thing.)
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,388
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
My Cheater-Wrench works great! Avoid the no-name brand ones. Many reviews say the just snap in half.

http://www.cheaterwrench.com/


I bought a "cheaterwrench" years ago. It is made in China like all the rest. It will work OK as long as you treat it right and don't put to much pressure on it ( no impact tools !) . Also the sockets are not the best quality so I use name brand ones with mine. I also have the military "Ken Tool" wrench. It also works great as long as you use a jack stand to brace the tool against.
 

OD_Coyote

Active member
887
58
28
Location
North Bend, WA
I bought a "cheaterwrench" years ago. It is made in China like all the rest. It will work OK as long as you treat it right and don't put to much pressure on it ( no impact tools !) . Also the sockets are not the best quality so I use name brand ones with mine. I also have the military "Ken Tool" wrench. It also works great as long as you use a jack stand to brace the tool against.
I have not had to use a jack stand when using the multiplier feature. The 2nd bar supports the tool just fine, I usually put a piece of wood under the bar the contacts the ground.
 

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SignalNco

Member
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16
Location
Winchester, VA
Not a TM but a PM as in PM magazine, March 91. Look in the restoration section, I believe there is a link to a web site called radionerds. You can also do an internet search for PM magazine and find pdf copies of back issues. If you have a problem PM me, I think I have a pdf of that issue.
 

sac

New member
66
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Location
iowa
Not a TM but a PM as in PM magazine, March 91. Look in the restoration section, I believe there is a link to a web site called radionerds. You can also do an internet search for PM magazine and find pdf copies of back issues. If you have a problem PM me, I think I have a pdf of that issue.
Got it thanks
 

OD_Coyote

Active member
887
58
28
Location
North Bend, WA
Do you have to use the bar that goe to the ground?
I don't think you need (2) bars, but then you may need to support the end of the tool like was previously mentioned.
My tool came with (2) bars, which works great for the lug nuts, but it might not be standard issue.
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
187
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
I have a couple torque multipliers which work well.

The first is a Powerdyne unit that was used for M-60s. This goes up 700 ft #s and has a gauge. It cranks up with a 3/8 ratchet.

The other is from the Robotool kit that was used on Bradleys. This one has a torque limiter that causes it to slip if you get the torque too high. If anyone knows what that spec is supposed to be, I'd be interested.

Both units originally come with a part (pictured) that works an torque anchor instead of a bar, although bars could be used on both and one comes with the Powerdyne.
 

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