willys help

[Speedy]

tackling the rad and grille.

well that was eventful
thinking I would just walk out with my socket set and some wrenches and spin everything loose... boy was I wrong!
everything was nicely coated in rust, spray on some liquid wrench and do something else for a hour and a half.
went back this time with a torch, heated the nuts up and out they came! heat is now my friend. (dont ask the jeep, I accidentally put fire to some canvas material

didnt think any coolent would be in the rad, but I was wrong! it sure had allot in it. its a good sign tho.

then tryed spinning the engine over again with the breaker bar, no go! needs more soaking.

thats the story for now, back to studying.

 

[Speedy]

video

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH6olu41krg[/media]

 

[Stan Leschert]

Up here, if a vehicle has not been registered or insured for 12 years, as long as you have a bill of sale, you can apply for a lost title. The cost is minimal, it just takes a few months to run through the Bereau crabs.


Save that thing!

 

[48cj2a]

First - welcome to the world of the flat fender and I would like to invite you over to TheCJ2Apage.com everything about the Willys CJ2A Jeep there is a wealth of knowledge and information on our forum and like here experts with the CJ2A vehicles.

You have a typical condition vehicle for its year, but what you don't know is you have one of the highly collectable models known as a CJ2A lefty. They are a little more rare than the typical CJ2A in that for a 10K run of vehicles the bow top brackets were placed on the passenger side and the spare was placed on the driver side.

I just did a quick search on our forum and see you have already joined us but will leave the above info for the others that have been conversing with you to know as well. You are in good hands over there.

 

[linx310]

You have a typical condition vehicle for its year, but what you don't know is you have one of the highly collectable models known as a CJ2A lefty.

Maybe you should try to restore Speedy...

 

[Speedy]

does it make that much of a difference if I dont have any data tags. does that get rid of most of the leftys value?
the guy I got this off of doesnt have any of that stuff.

 

[jimmcld]

You can get replacement data plates. The cj's didn't have as many as the military ones. There should also be a plate located on the front, drivers side, frame rail, close to the bumper, visable from the outside. If it's there, it will give you a number that you can trace back to see when it was built. There is also one on the firewall, inside the engine compartment, near the top of the firewall, above the passenter side frame rail.

It looks better than mine did when I got it. All those rusted out panels are replaceable and for sale. You will probably need to invest in a tack weld cutter and a mig welder, but it's not rocket science. There are "hat channels" under the floor panels. These channels were filled with wood to make them more rigid. Everything that the wood was touching will most likely be rusted out, but all is replaceable, including the hat channels.

Hope you restore it. They are a part of history.

 

[Speedy]

my uncles is sharing the same interest for this jeep so I will most likely get it going again.
I have a mig welder and getting a stick soon.

unfortunately I dont plan on doing a 100% resto but rather to get all the rust out and get it back onto the road.
biggest issue right now is still the engine.

anyone know the guage thickness of metal used on this jeep? and what I should be looking to purchase to patch rust areas.

 

[tkjeeper]

Hey Speedy, fellow Ontarian here. Great job there! I just picked up my first big project, my M38A1 CDN, I hope the engine is as easy to work on as yours as I'm NOT a mechanic but I am a fast learner. What I found out at my local MTO was that if you don't have an ownership, like me, you can still license it, it's just listed as a home made vehicle, not sure if thats a problem or not, but I plan on restoring mine. I hope that helps you. Take care bro.

 

[Speedy]

question for the gang.
I would like to start body work on my jeep since I have been slacking.
any words of wisdom? I have a mig welder and sheilding gas what other tools do I need?
and what is the procedure to get a patch panel in once I cut out the bad areas?

will I expect to bondo? or will the patch be perfect and flat?
(not talking about quarter panels etc, but rather the random rust holes that appear)

Hey Speedy, fellow Ontarian here. Great job there! I just picked up my first big project, my M38A1 CDN, I hope the engine is as easy to work on as yours as I'm NOT a mechanic but I am a fast learner. What I found out at my local MTO was that if you don't have an ownership, like me, you can still license it, it's just listed as a home made vehicle, not sure if thats a problem or not, but I plan on restoring mine. I hope that helps you. Take care bro.

sorry for the late reply.
thats awsome where in Ontario?

I am in Toronto.
I have located allot of collectors in my area, its very surprising how many people you can find if you look closely.

I am always on the hunt for MV's that are affordable to me. and I love talking about them too so hit me up with a email whenever bro.

my next purchase seems to be a canadian Iltis but things can change.

 

[Speedy]

here is an attempt at body work. just practicing.

so here is attempt #2.
attempt #1 resulted in a epic fail. but I learned and todays attempt went much smoother.

woke up early stopped off at mr.metal. no small 18guage offcuts to give me so they handed me a large piece for free (enough to start patching the jeep after my practice) :thup:

with a nice flat sheet I took out the sawzall (wish I had something better) and cut out a test piece, got out the welder and found its sweet spot.

I know everyone is saying low wire speed and low voltage, but I went with what my welding book suggested (3-4 volts) as bench mark and worked from that.

here are some pictures.

shielding gas was used, compressor to cool down the welds with a blast of air, grinder with grinder wheel, 40 and 80 grit flappers to work it smooth.

 

[jimmcld]

One thing that you might not have heard of: when you can get to it from the back side, if you can back it up with a copper bar, it will allow you to run hotter and get a lot more penetration. It also acts as a heat sink to remove heat from the metal.

 

[Speedy]

I did hear of it but I didnt want to try it as I might rely on it at all times.
will do another practice. I think I can turn up the power some more, I had really no warpage on that piece.

 

[wbrianiii]

Looks and sounds like you're coming right along. Don't let people steer you wrong with inaccurate advice. The reason most of the engine parts are so readily available, is the long production run. This is the Willys "Go - Devil" 4 cyl engine that went into production around 1937 in the Willys vehicles, and stayed in production into the late 50s. The "Hurricane" 4 cyl., also known as the 'f head,' is an improvement on the Go-Devil, is the same displacement, and uses many of the same parts, and was produced from '52 through '71. Willys Overland Motors did not use Continental engines. Something to think about, the exhaust valves are not hardened, and will burn using modern fuels. Replace them with exhaust valves for an f head engine, including the valve spring retainers, as hardened valves are available for the f head. The difference in stem length can be accommodated by adjusting the lifters. Good luck!

 

[chucksA1]

One trick you can do to get a patch panel "close" to the shape of the hole is to hold a piece of posterboard behind the hole and use some spray paint to "paint" the outline of the patch panel. Cut along the paint line. You now have a template - specific for that hole. I suggest you try to keep a little bigger space between butt-joints for your welds.

49T&C