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M1009 Help

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Vancouver, Washington
Annoying news... I get to wait another day until I get to work on the truck! Turns out that my Mom and I have to go do something in Portland after school today. Guess that gives me another day to get information together and stuff. Considering that, what transmission and transfer case does a M1009 use (nothing definitive from google) and also, does a M1009 have a rear locker of any sort (or front either, once again, google didn't help). I have heard both ways so I just want to get something definitive.
 

alburms311

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That sucks. TH400 3 speed automatic , The M1009 has Corporate 10 bolt axles front and rear with 3.08 gear ratio and a Gov-Lok in the rear. The front axle is open. That info came straight from the Wiki at the top of the CUCV page. Not being a turd, but I have yet to see anyone point you to the WIKI, STICKYS, or the TMs. There is a wealth of knowledge in all those places. If someone hadn't pointed them out to me when I first started, I imagine I would still be scratching my head. Good luck, you'll have the ole girl up and running in no time.
 

ODFever

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For the time being, just dump hose water in the radiator. That way you'll easily be able to spot any leaks in the coolant system without watching valuable dollar$ in antifreeze drip out of the truck. You can drain the radiator out later and add antifreeze.
 
161
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Vancouver, Washington
Thank you guys for all the wonderful information! I don't know how I overlooked so much of this information as I have viewed several of the resources mentioned though it is probably because I was too focused on finding other information. In response to alburns, yes, no one had yet pointed out those resources but I have at least looked at a fair number of the Stickies and when it came to the TMs, I just became lost whenever I tried finding something. I did know about the wiki but I hadn't used it because last time I had tried some of the various vehicle wikis on this website, they had always given me an error that the page did not exist, it is my fault though that I did not go back later and check. Thank you that tip though alburns because I would not of known about the wiki working for me again (and thank you for the encouragement too!).

What is the general opinion on the "gov-lok" rear? In a minute of googling, it sounds like the things explode if put to the test but work fine in general. I myself would see no reason to switch it out though as if I get this thing running, it wouldn't be doing crazy stuff off road. Also, on a temporary solution for the empty radiator, I'm hearing 1 vote hose water, 1 vote distilled & antifreeze. Like I said, this would be temporary and also just to flush the radiaor out. I would lean towards the hose option because it's a bit dirty and I'm on a bad budget, though my Grandpa might have a hose filter from his rv that I'm assuming takes out minerals and stuff to protect the rv's piping.

Now this is mostly out of curiosity right now because I don't have the money to act on it but how much do you guys think I could get the transmission, the transfer case, and both (or three including the trans. to the transfer case?) drive shafts for at best? I have seen that driveshafts will generally run $150-200 each, a transmission easily $300, and I couldn't find a price for a transfer case. Though that might just be I'm not looking in the right places (though I did try searching the parts classifieds here).

Wow. Sure took a long time to get that all down. Hope I'm not missing anything!

Edit: By the way, if this project actually gets anywhere, should I turn this into a build thread or start a new thread for that purpose? Also, should I make a temporary poll for the radiator question?
 
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Warthog

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Just use the hose for water. When you get the engine going you will be flushing the system anyway. How cold does it get in you area? Winter is coming and you do not want to leave the water in long term.

After you grandpa agrees to let you keep the truck, there are options for the drive train. Plan on at least $500.

How was school today? Where you able to pay attention????? ;-)
 

antennaclimber

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Murdock, you should be commended for your fantastic ability to write with great clarity and proper English.
It sure does make it easier for the others to answer your questions.

I know people 2 and 3 times your age that wouldn't be able to communicate as well as you do.

Keep up the good work, you came to the right place to get the answers you are seeking.

Karl
 
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161
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Vancouver, Washington
Thank you Warthog on the tip for the radiator! I live in the northwest (just google my location for better information) so it usually does not get too cold (we usually have 1 season, rain :p:roll:, but the occasional freezing night) though according to the Farmer's Almanac, we are slated for a proper winter! Either way, I will probably be emptying the radiator back out once I'm done until I have some proper stuff in it and after it has been flushed (another reason to empty it out). It is also relieving to hear that getting missing parts isn't going to kill me (at least not as bad as I thought!). And yes, I was able to focus in school, it's not hard when I just get my work done then have some time to dream away :).

Thank you for the compliment antenna! It is something that I do not see reason to skimp on but you sure won't see me writing books! Thanks for the added encouragement as well!
 

alburms311

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Murdock, you should be commended for your fantastic ability to write with great clarity and proper English.
It sure does make it easier for the others to answer your questions.

I know a people 2 and 3 times your age that wouldn't be able to communicate as well as you do.

Keep up the good work, you came to the right place to get the answers you are seeking.

Karl
I couldn't agree more. It's refreshing to see the native language not being butchered in a thread:)
 

swiss

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Wow interesting thread, lets see what I can learn and maybe fill in on some questions as the team is not always on line :)

p.s: I wish my 15 year old had some interest in learning about troubleshooting and solving a problem on these old trucks. It is a dying skill to be able to work on mechanical equipment.
 
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Location
Vancouver, Washington
Thank you stampy! I was questioning myself on it but I was too convinced that it was him.

Do you guys know what pressure rating of fuel line I'll need for rigging up a fuel can and replacing the line all the way up to the IP (from the fuel pump to the IP for clarification)? I know I need the r9 (the diesel rated stuff) but can I get some 60 or 70 psi rated stuff or do I need the 210 psi stuff. I ask this because I can get the lower rated tube for a fair bit cheaper (and tons cheaper compared to the stuff I found at Napa!) and I couldn't find an answer anywhere here or on google.

Well, unless something else happens or I think of something else, I should finally get a chance to work on the truck again tomorrow :)! Thank you for your offer of help swiss and it is sad that fewer and fewer people know how to or even want to work on these old things (including steam locomotives since I'm also a train nut :p!).
 
161
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Location
Vancouver, Washington
I sure hope so as well! I would have already posted ads at this point but I still don't have any say from my Grandpa who is the actual owner and I don't have any money right now so... yeah. If I get the chance to expand my budget though, I certainly will! Maybe this thing will become my first vehicle! Anyone have any ideas on the fuel pressure?
 

Warthog

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The fuel system runs in the 5-10 psi up to the injector pump. Then the steel lines run in the thousands.

No need for the high pressure stuff.

before you start spending any money lets see if the engine will crank and start.

Glad to hear you where able to get your school work done. ;-)
 
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