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The owner sent another glass to me for replacement. It is a pretty decent clear / mild tint glass.
I don't like to pick things apart but I noticed immediately that the sash was barely attached and not put on straight.
. A quick firm tug on the sash and BAM it was detached from the glass.
That would have been great if it happened when you were putting it up and down.
I was not surprised to find shards of broken glass from the window that had previously occupied the sash.
I amused to seeing work like this.
I used a flat screw driver and I did manage to stab my hand with it. Joy. One thing to remember when working with adhesives. the surfaces must be clean, dry and rust free as much as possible. it looks to me like they used masking tape and red Permatex to attempt to adhere the glass into the sash. FAIL.
I kept digging the rubber tape and adhesive from the track until it was all out.
You can see the adhesive had not adhered to the metal it had cured in the rust and dirt. No adhesion at all.
Looking down over the length of the sash the channel was bent and uneven.
The sash side guides were rusty and abrasive.
I smoothed the sash guides with the 2" rolock polishing disc. it chewed it up quickly but left the surface smooth and un abrasive. 
I used a wire wheel on a drill and cleaned out the channel thoroughly. I wanted to clean the sash flange also so I put in a medium coarse 2" disc.
and I don't have any unexpired adhesive I went and opened the rear glass I have. It is a 1990 K5 Blazer Dot Matrix tinted glass.

It is not a perfect rear window but it has the factory tint and is in great condition considering it is 30 years old. Next I will post pictures of over hauling the rear gate crank and guides without breaking the bank. If this nice clean roller guide is how you think they are supposed to look. That is part of the rear window problem. 
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4 years ago I had all my toys lined up for pictures. All gone from my toy box now but the memories will last forever.
I placed the sash on the edge of the glass and aligned the ends. using bar clamps I locked then into position.
I was able to tap and get the sash perfectly on the glass. I used finger clamps and squeezed them onto the ends so that I could get a good adhesion with sash to glass. With that set up and secured I called it a night. I want to work on the rear gate tomorrow night. I have an appointment at the transmission shop to get the transmission and rear differential over hauled. I have been waiting 2 months for an open spot. Of course it is raining here again. I can hear the grass growing. Take Care and Be Safe.
This is the lower adjustment slot. The adjustment nut press's the bracket onto the hex head of the stud. I use a flat washer behind this bracket at that location.
That upper mount has been broken a long time. The broken surfaces have been rubbed smooth and almost polished.
I will report back later when I have the time to do these repairs. I think it is possible. These brackets don't exist new that they are available. They used to be a $15. item. I threw many away just because of the hex head press in the adjustment slot. I never knew. Take Care.
Before.
After.
Before.

I will send a few M10 Nylock nuts along to use in the upper pivot point. Also a grade 8 3/8" flat would help a lot on the slide adjustment stud. Keeps the nut from compressing into the hex head and chewing the bracket. The little gusset will not interfere as far as I can see. it adds a lot of strength to that hard radius that is always cracked out. Lets call that the CUCVRUS power steering gusset upgrade. Or NOT. I fixed many of these brackets. It is cleaned, fitted and mig welded. Cleaned and fitted is the most important part. Take care. I will throw a few M10 1.5 bolts and nuts along with some other stuff you may need. If not keep them for when you do. I have the 4WD filter also. I am 99.9% sure it will hold. The other .01% is if the other brackets on the lower side of the pump are tight and in the proper place. Many I see are missing the lower brackets. Wouldn't it be much easier with electric steering?
Clean it all out and rotary wire brush the entire brackets. I use the vise because I value my flesh. Wear eye protection also because sight is valuable.
The second one. There is a right and left.
With the repair and upgrade I do it does not matter if the track is rusted thru.
It does require that the attachment brackets are secure enough to reattach to the inside of the gate again. I wire brushed the entire track inside and out. i am out of the Black urethane adhesive. I used the whole tube to attach sash on the bottom of a Dot Matrix rear window and a clear rear window. I will acquire more adhesive and complete my rear track repair. It is inexpensive and holds up to more use and abuse then the cheap knock off replacement ones you can buy. The GM ones were great and held up. I will continue my repair tomorrow or the next day. When I get around to it. Take Care and Be Safe. 
I put urethane adhesive in the channels. I press some TrimLok material into the tracks. It is 1/4".
It fits in perfect. I clamped it a while and sent it to final paint.
After an hour or so I set them back on my gate for pictures.
The true test is "will they fit the gate glass?". BAM. Like new for a fraction of the cost.

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