What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[TNDRIVER]

After cleaning the check valve and replacing the rubber hoses I’m getting a good amount of fuel at the filter inlet. I have the 2 rear injectors cracked open and I haven’t got fuel to come out yet. I do have fuel coming from the return on the IP cover. I noticed that I had a big fuel leak exactly where my new fuel pump is. I got underneath and it was coming from above the fuel pump. I got on top of it and I noticed that the return line that goes from the 1st injector on passenger side to the return line was leaking really bad and it was falling off. I’m trying to find replacement line that’s not a 25’ roll. I never had fuel to that injector before or it would have leaked. I don’t know if that means my IP is good or not but something is getting fuel to it. I will charge batteries and keep trying to work thru it. Non runner is difficult because you don’t know why and you have to work through the system.

If I remember correctly one of the big vendors sells a "kit" of these return lines, rated for diesel fuel.

 

[Milcommoguy]

If I remember correctly one of the big vendors sells a "kit" of these return lines, rated for diesel fuel.

Return lines headaches.

Here's the POOP from my experience on the fancy, green or black, no clips, slip on, with a woven outer jacket, general web sites kits or bulk lengths. At first this magic hose seemed to work (but I had my doubts) Give it a year or two and the leaks will show up. The ends fray, hose splits at the injector barbs, and the cabin fills with diesel fumes while it drips on the exhaust. This played out this morning on a return trip camping. It is not the first time seeing this on rigs the guys and I run.

I carefully cut the braid back to get a good look. It does fray and detaches near the cut ends. I never had an issues with the OEM and clips... even on 30 years old engines. YMMV... but I'am done with easy magic hose. And note just try and work a clip/clamp between it and the injector.


Close up of the ends


It is NOW banned for any use on my rigs. AC Delco GM 14066305 hose and clips 1238007 for factory.
Camo at Camoteksystems.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Return lines headaches.

Here's the POOP from my experience on the fancy, green or black, no clips, slip on, with a woven outer jacket, general web sites kits or bulk lengths. At first this magic hose seemed to work (but I had my doubts) Give it a year or two and the leaks will show up. The ends fray, hose splits at the injector barbs, and the cabin fills with diesel fumes while it drips on the exhaust. This played out this morning on a return trip camping. It is not the first time seeing this on rigs the guys and I run.

I carefully cut the braid back to get a good look. It does fray and detaches near the cut ends. I never had an issues with the OEM and clips... even on 30 years old engines. YMMV... but I'am done with easy magic hose. And note just try and work a clip/clamp between it and the injector.
View attachment 867761

Close up of the ends
View attachment 867763

It is NOW banned for any use on my rigs. AC Delco GM 14066305 hose and clips 1238007 for factory.
Camo at Camoteksystems.

Let me clarify, I'm pretty sure it was HPG where I saw the kit. Factory stuff.

 

[Mogman]

I think this thread is getting a little off track..

 

[Mogman]

I converted the stock waste gate controller to make it adjustable, was really easy, just grind off the crimp in the middle of the "can" until it gives up the "cover", then carefully grind the end of the rod (spring end) until the spring cap is free.
Then thread the rod with a 10-24 die and drill the spring cap to slide over the rod and presto manually adjustable boost control.
I did anneal the end of the rod to make it easier to thread.

I went from 5 PSI boost to 10 PSI, the EGTs came down about 75 degrees and the GEP turbo just seems to be much happier all around!

 

[blutow]

I finished replacing my coolant hoses (and coolant), thermostat, fuel pump, and more fuel hoses. I also adjusted my carrier bearing, which was poorly aligned. As with most things, doing the cooling system took longer than expected. A few of those hose clamps (ie top of water pump) are in pretty awkward locations. I was able to drain about 5 gallons by pulling hoses, the driver's side block drain plug, and vacuuming out the heater core. That left about 1.5 gallons undrained, so I did 2 flushes by filling with distilled water and then draining 2 more times before adding the new coolant. I feel like the truck is pretty well sorted out at this point, I just have a few remaining fuel hoses to replace and I also still need to re-install all the DWF stuff (which is really for cosmetics more than function).

Out with the old (hoses were actually in pretty good shape, but still 13 years old) -


in with the new -

 

[TOBASH]

I converted the stock waste gate controller to make it adjustable, was really easy, just grind off the crimp in the middle of the "can" until it gives up the "cover", then carefully grind the end of the rod (spring end) until the spring cap is free.
Then thread the rod with a 10-24 die and drill the spring cap to slide over the rod and presto manually adjustable boost control.
I did anneal the end of the rod to make it easier to thread.
View attachment 867964
I went from 5 PSI boost to 10 PSI, the EGTs came down about 75 degrees and the GEP turbo just seems to be much happier all around!

Sticky!!??!!?? Great info!!!

 

[HoveringHMMWV]

This is not the typical "What have you done" thread.....
I spent the last few days working on odds and ends of the "new" M1151A1. Fluids, filters, clamps, joints, being changed, tightened, inspected, greased, etc.... I finally was to the point this afternoon that I wanted to do a test drive up a county road to see what would leak, ratttle, rub, or smoke. Murphy's threatening presence and my senses being hyper for any sign of an impending failure led to quite a funny moment. About 1.5 miles into my "test flight", and just about the time when the temps were rising and the fan was beginning to cycle, a pair of F-16's on a low level came screaming by. I looked just in time to see my wife almost leap thru the open turret hole. My surprise was that her reflexes were faster than mine! These vehicles make enough noises on their own without the sound of freedom overhead! BTW.... no leaks, drips, or smoke by the time we returned home.

 

[blutow]

This wasn't today, but I recently got my battery compartment sorted out. I spent the $'s for a couple of the Hawker military AGM batteries and also hardwired a victron 24 volt smart charger. I'm a fan of the victron electrical equipment. I have a pretty serious off-grid system in my camper van that is mostly victron stuf and I've been really happy with it. The charger allows me to set up a custom charge profile for the AGM's based on Hawker recommendations. I can also log into the charger via blue tooth to view voltage and current and see what is going on with charging.

 

[Mogman]

This wasn't today, but I recently got my battery compartment sorted out. I spent the $'s for a couple of the Hawker military AGM batteries and also hardwired a victron 24 volt smart charger. I'm a fan of the victron electrical equipment. I have a pretty serious off-grid system in my camper van that is mostly victron stuf and I've been really happy with it. The charger allows me to set up a custom charge profile for the AGM's based on Hawker recommendations. I can also log into the charger via blue tooth to view voltage and current and see what is going on with charging.

View attachment 868024

You should tie down/insulate the charger leads where it leaves the battery box AND fuse it where it connects to the battery, a little rub/rub there or a failed charger and you can end up with a fire

 

[MarkM]

Completely agree. You should drill a hole into the battery compartment and using a rubber gromet run the line in. I also don't see a fuse on that line for the charger where one is needed. Preferably very near the terminals. You also need protective covers on the battery terminals. Huge amount of catastrophic potential with those batteries. Easy to avoid issues. Love the Hawkers.

Mark

 

[Sigi]

My (new) truck is running fine but I went ahead with a fuel filter change. What a PIA. Surprisingly difficult to get at for a frequent maintenance item. Finally got it out of there. The filter element and screen looked new but there was some gunk in the water separator. Upon reassembly one of the top bolts stripped its aluminum threads. Sigh. No leaks but I will need to put a thread insert in next time I change the filter. I understand some of you have replaced the filter assembly with a more modern spin-on water/fuel separator in a more accessible location. That might be the way to go.

 

[Mogman]

My (new) truck is running fine but I went ahead with a fuel filter change. What a PIA. Surprisingly difficult to get at for a frequent maintenance item. Finally got it out of there. The filter element and screen looked new but there was some gunk in the water separator. Upon reassembly one of the top bolts stripped its aluminum threads. Sigh. No leaks but I will need to put a thread insert in next time I change the filter. I understand some of you have replaced the filter assembly with a more modern spin-on water/fuel separator in a more accessible location. That might be the way to go.

 

[Sigi]

View attachment 868052

Very nice!

 

[blutow]

ou should tie down/insulate the charger leads where it leaves the battery box AND fuse it where it connects to the battery, a little rub/rub there or a failed charger and you can end up with a fire

Completely agree. You should drill a hole into the battery compartment and using a rubber gromet run the line in. I also don't see a fuse on that line for the charger where one is needed. Preferably very near the terminals. You also need protective covers on the battery terminals. Huge amount of catastrophic potential with those batteries. Easy to avoid issues. Love the Hawkers.

Thanks. Yes, completely agree. It's a bit of a temp install since I'm still considering using the slave port for the charger instead of a fixed hard wired install. I just wish those slave connectors were less expensive. The positive has a fuse, but I didn't want to cut the lead to get the fuse close to the terminal since I may want longer leads with the the slave port approach. I do need to get some terminal covers. I've seen some different styles and I'm assuming these are the correct ones (below)?

 

[MarkM]

Juse remember the fuse stops power going further but not before the fuse. If the fuse is at the charger and it shorts before that an old term comes to mind. Release the kraken! Lol

Mark

 

[juanprado]

typically the covers I have seen are black rubber covers that slip over. The bottom can be cut to make it easy to slide on after everything is on.
This vendor on ebay has it and is reasonable plus not stupid crazy shipping. Used him many times

NOS LOT OF 4 M151 HMMWV EARLY STYLE BATTERY TERMINAL COVER 10942521 M939 M818 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NOS LOT OF 4 M151 HMMWV EARLY STYLE BATTERY TERMINAL COVER 10942521 M939 M818 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Maxjeep1]

Yesterday I finally had my appointment at DMV and everything was going good. I had to have it inspected by a certified shop and I did it a few weeks ago. The inspection form that DMV gave me is hand filled out like for vin and model and stuff. DMV put a 0 instead of a 1 and lady said she can’t change it and it can only be changed by the DMV across town… I couldn’t believe it and I would probably have to drive it over there taking backroads and then get it inspected again. I spent 6.00 on some white out and made a color copy and fix it myself and went back this morning and I have plates now! I’m excited about being able to drive it everywhere now and not be looking over my shoulder. I purchased my M1123 on May 19th 2021 and this is how long it took to finish the process.

 

[blutow]

I purchased my M1123 on May 19th 2021 and this is how long it took to finish the process

Congrats. So, not even 1 year....

I've got my Montana title in hand and I have my title/registration appointment on Friday. Fingers crossed. I only ordered an SF97, but GP screwed up and did the title as well. That caused a little extra delay, but hopefully will make the titling process simpler. MIne was a september auction truck, so it will be a little over 8 months.

Once titled in TX, I'm planning to register my truck as a former military vehicle rather than normal registration. I have the option to go without any plates (as long as the original military numbers are showing) or I can get a single rear military vehicle plate. I like the idea of not having to mess with a plate (and I prefer the original look), but I'm wondering which approach would be more likely to get me pulled over by a confused or inquisitive cop. Without a plate, I could see cops pulling me over because they are just confused and may not be aware that plates aren't required under this type of registration. However, maybe a cop would leave me alone with no plates since the truck could pass for an active military vehicle. The plate would make it clear that it has a restricted registration, so maybe that would increases the chance of a cop questioning whether I'm using the truck within those restrictions.

Once I have the truck titled, I can change registration types if I want and add a plate later as well. I'm leaning toward just going with the military number markings to start and see if I have any issues. I've put about 500 miles on the truck in the last month (unregistered with no plates) and zero issues with cops (except a couple thumbs up).

 

[Mogman]

Congrats. So, not even 1 year....

I've got my Montana title in hand and I have my title/registration appointment on Friday. Fingers crossed. I only ordered an SF97, but GP screwed up and did the title as well. That caused a little extra delay, but hopefully will make the titling process simpler. MIne was a september auction truck, so it will be a little over 8 months.

Once titled in TX, I'm planning to register my truck as a former military vehicle rather than normal registration. I have the option to go without any plates (as long as the original military numbers are showing) or I can get a single rear military vehicle plate. I like the idea of not having to mess with a plate (and I prefer the original look), but I'm wondering which approach would be more likely to get me pulled over by a confused or inquisitive cop. Without a plate, I could see cops pulling me over because they are just confused and may not be aware that plates aren't required under this type of registration. However, maybe a cop would leave me alone with no plates since the truck could pass for an active military vehicle. The plate would make it clear that it has a restricted registration, so maybe that would increases the chance of a cop questioning whether I'm using the truck within those restrictions.

Once I have the truck titled, I can change registration types if I want and add a plate later as well. I'm leaning toward just going with the military number markings to start and see if I have any issues. I've put about 500 miles on the truck in the last month (unregistered with no plates) and zero issues with cops (except a couple thumbs up).

I think you would have a high chance of being pulled over without plates for a several reasons, First he may think he just scored a bust for a stolen military vehicle, (felony stop!!) second cops REALLY like running that dohicky that give them info on all vehicles around them by reading the chips in the plates.
Third nobody knows all the laws, there are just too many and cops are not immune from ignorance.
Forth I have had them pull me over for not having a front plate, he was sitting in a cross over in a state highway, this means you would have been stopped just for that reason, I think the lees interaction I have with the law the better.
Give me a while and I will think of more...