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MEP-803A —— Did I Score? Maybe So.......

Tinstar

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Installed the battery hold downs today.
Went ahead and used that one plastic shield on the starter side since it wouldn’t be in the way of anything.
Don’t think I have it installed correctly anyway.
The terminal flap covers will be installed later when I can find them.

Edit: After looking at the plastic shield picture, I’m going to remove it. Don’t like the way it looks, correctly installed or not.

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Removed fuel gauge sensor.
Was a bit of a challenge.
Not as crusty as I thought it would be.

Used an DMM and tested it. The Ohms were from 25-250 range. Haven’t looked in the manual to see what it’s supposed to be.
New replacement is due in Thursday.

Also installed new coolant bottle cap.


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Tinstar

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You can also connect an ohm meter to the fuel sender. move the float slowly up and down and look for dead spots where your meter shows an open circuit.
Sometimes you can clean the coil with acetone or brake cleaner, if the dead spot is caused by a thin bit of varnish.
I did that.
Yes. There were several dead spots in the range of travel.
 

CallMeColt

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The replacement arrived today.
Seems extremely well built and sturdy.
The KUSS units are the best in the way they are built. I stopped putting them in for one reason.... they are not that accurate for the application in the generator.

Doesn't show full unless it's about to spill out the filler neck. Shows empty when it's really closer to 1/4ish. As long as you are alright with that, it's fine. It's just the way that sender is designed to work.

When you setup the OEM sender, it gets rotated on the top part so the float goes down into the sump of the tank. This is why it's a PITA to get out & you do a kind of swirly-gig to get it out. There is no way at all the KUSS can do that. KUSS will never wear out again though. But, I doubt a generator that is cared for with good fuel in it will have a regular OEM sender go bad either.

One without a dead spot it certainly better than one with one. I have had a few rotted so bad, only the wire was left keeping it connected & the rest of it was swinging around in there! :ROFLMAO:
 

Tinstar

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Found two NOS OEM senders, but the sellers thought they were Gold.
Oh well.

You do not need to remove tank to install the new KUS sensor.
Will be using SS bolts instead of the Phillips screws.

Drained fuel and looked inside tank and surprisingly, it was almost spotless.
The source of the old fuel smell was the cap and strainer itself.
Strainer is not rusted and intact.
Removed those and tank smelled like normal diesel tank.
Will be soaking those to remove some light rust and hopefully the smell
Fuel in it is not old. Fairly fresh off-road diesel.

Still deciding on load bank options.
That time is approaching quickly.
 

CallMeColt

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The OEM part number is an AutoMeter pre-adjusted & setup so it can just be installed.

Soak the entire strainer in ATF & then the next day, spray with brake cleaner. It usually cleans the strainer up really good. Have had one or two that were so gummed up you couldn't even filled the tank with them in & got them cleaned this way.

I get a few of the AutoMeter ones in at at time & make all the adjustments & have them ready to go. They get gobbled up quick. Even put the arrows on them so you know the right away to point it when it's being put in place as you can't see in the tank. Takes a while to do it. You almost need to take it completely apart as it is shipped. One setup for an MEP 803A can quickly be adjusted for an MEP 802A.

Anyone who reads this thread, there are a lot of "fake" AutoMeter listings on eBay & Amazon. Make sure you get a genuine one. The fake ones will fail VERY fast. They are very, very low quality.
 
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Tinstar

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You can install the KUS with the tank still installed.
Just did it.
Didn't take much effort but the sensor plopped right in.
Forgot gasket, took it back out, and reinstalled it, with gasket this time.

Now for the wiring and bolts.

I still need to install the well nut modification kit.
 

CallMeColt

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You can install the KUS with the tank still installed.
Just did it.
Didn't take much effort but the sensor plopped right in.
Forgot gasket, took it back out, and reinstalled it, with gasket this time.

Now for the wiring and bolts.

I still need to install the well nut modification kit.
Well, I will go change that as to not confuse people reading down the road. I swore when I tried, I couldn't get it but that was a while ago. May be getting mixed up with other stuff......
 

Ray70

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One of my go-to cheap load banks has always been a used electric oven.
Often found on the side of the road and/or cheap on Facebook.
I use if for load testing, powder coating and lots of other "shop" activities.
Probably could load test and bake a pizza at the same time, but powder coat and pepperoni don't play well together.....
 

Tinstar

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One of my go-to cheap load banks has always been a used electric oven.
Often found on the side of the road and/or cheap on Facebook.
I use if for load testing, powder coating and lots of other "shop" activities.
Probably could load test and bake a pizza at the same time, but powder coat and pepperoni don't play well together.....
This is the way I’m leaning.

Load bank generator set and cook a pot of beans and bake some cornbread

Sold
 

Tinstar

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Installed and working.
I decided not to cut any wires and just bolted leads together.
That way, if I ever need to, I can use the original style sensor without any problems.

I plan on getting the original style sensor as a backup.

I still need to clean up outside of tank and install well nut upgrade.

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