M818 Won't crank

[cleb]

DARN THAT BITES OUCH

Eh, whatever, its what I get for buying a 818 from GL instead of you

 

[cleb]

I started her up in 1st gear, clutch in, service and parking brakes on, she crawled forward and tried to stall. Did it a bunch, tried 3rd gear. In 2nd gear, clutch in, full brakes, she would slow way down, and keep rolling. Obviously the clutch is slipping a bit in this condition. Next, I started her in 2nd, clutch out, full brakes, and she stalled. So the clutch is BARELY disengaging with the pedal to the floor. Me thinks its sticky, and needs adjusted. Going to pull the inspection cover, and follow the TM as far as adjustment. Any tips?

Oh, and I *LOVE* power steering. I knew there was a reason to buy a 5ton . Did a few laps in the field, easy as pie to drive and steer compared to a deuce!

 

[WillWagner]

Is there alot of freeplay in the pedal?

 

[cleb]

Is there alot of freeplay in the pedal?

There was absolutely none....I adjusted the linkage to the freeplay spec'd in the TM, no go. Not sure what to think now...

 

[docfarmall]

It has to be ajusted like a semi through the bottom of the bell houseing 9/16's wrench and a prybar good luck glad shes up and runnin . Glad you didnt buy this one she's getting converted to a shop truck this week it will be a 8185 shop van that 250 and powered steering is awesome.

 

[cleb]

I had a friend push the clutch in while I looked up in the inspection hole. I could only see 2 of the 3 fingers on the plate. One of them looked to be touching the TO bearing when the clutch pedal was out. The other looked to be about a 1/2" gap or more from the TO bearing. When the clutch was pushed in, the first moved with the TO, and the second was barely touched by the TO with the clutch pushed in all the way. Any ideas? Tomorrow I'm going to roll it over with the starter so I can inspect the condition of all 3 fingers.

Thanks!

 

[doghead]

Sounds like you need to drop the tramsmission and get in there.

 

[papabear]

Dont sound good for the home team. Might try a little more "break free" stuff ya have been trying...but I'm afraid DH may be right. (GOSH!!! DID I JUST TYPE THAT??)

 

[Victor]

Just in October I had my clutch shaft stock. Needed to drop trany. And then in December my engine pooped the bad, so needed to drop trany again.
First time I did not have all tools ready. took me about 3 days of work + waiting time for right tools to come. Total 2 weeks.
Second time I had all tools and equipment. Out-and-in took about 6 hours.
IF you choose to drop trany, do your self favor: spend some time for preparation.
1. Get alignment shaft. OTC is good brand and they have all the shafts sizes. The big problem they are costly. About $120-150. You can borrow from local truck shop or buy second hand for fraction. For example I got on ebay for $15.
2. Get heavy duty transmission jack. Stable one. If your trany will slip when you under truck ... do not try half S solution.
3. Make sure you know where to go for parts, and services (turn flywheel).
4. Position your truck on flat spot. If it has slop - very hard to move 6, 7, 800lb or more trany on not flat place.
5. Put full sheet on plywood under truck. Will be much easier to roll.
6. Get caliper, hand tools, air tools, compressor, spray cleaners, heavy duty paper towel, RTV and camera ready.
7. Don't forget the handle/changing shaft/stick is still in the cab.

Since digital camera is exist, I am always take pictures just in case I forgot how it was before. Since when - no spare parts left.

 

[cleb]

Well, 2 of the 3 fingers seem to move where they should. The 3rd can be seen in this picture P4120015 its the one on the left. A gap can be seen between it and the Throwout bearing, compared to the one on the right that is almost touching the TO.

 

[cleb]

Sorry its taken so long for an update. I ended up dropping the tranny. One of the 3 fingers (the same one I mentioned earlier) was broken. This was preventing the clutch from disengaging when the pedal was pushed down. Also, one of the bolts on the TO assembly had come out, and ground between the flywheel and bell housing. The flywheel had very noticable heat marks, and pretty severe cracking. Thanks to Wreckerman I got an almost new flywheel and pressure plate. I didn't even need to get them machined, most of the original machining marks could still be seen. That was a heavy bugger to get up in there, at 114 LBS! I put in a new TO bearing , clutch disc, and I was on the road. Then the IP started leaking, so that's next on the rebuild list. GL....never again :/

 

[Floridianson]

Know I'm a little late on this thread but we had one that was ring sized to. We put it in a forward gear but pulled it backwards and eased out the clutch, fuel and master off. Worked

 

[OPCOM]

Another thing one can do to a motor that has sat for awhile is have soldier B spray some fogging oil into the intake so the first breth she takes is a lubed one. Tec tip of the day.

fogging oil?

 

[dragonman]

I have a van truck with the cummins, it wont turn over. I hear a clicking from the control box when I turn the switch but the starter does not engage.
Help please

 

[doghead]

Do you have tech manuals? There is a step by step proceedure of testing for that, if I remember correctly.

Try looking at TM 9-2320-260-20

 

[73m819]

Do you have tech manuals? There is a step by step proceedure of testing for that, if I remember correctly.

Thats the problem, your so old, its tough

 

[doghead]

I'm not old, I'm just so full of information, it gets confusing!

I couldn't remember off the top of my head which TM#. I looked and added to the post above.

Hmm, pot calling the kettle Black (can you still say that nowadays?)

 

[dragonman]

i have been looking on line for it have not found it yet.

 

[nk14zp]

JATONKA's M809 series TM download page

 

[doghead]

You can't find the TM or the section for troubleshooting starting?

Just Google search TM 9-2320-260-20

here's a link, http://www.jatonkam35s.com/M809series/TM%209-2320-260-34-1.pdf