Recent content by Ray70

Take a look at the 804 TM , it uses a similar Dual float / Float Control module arrangement as the 802 / 803 does. The issue is most likely either with the lower float ( possibly stuck ) on item 62 or an issue with the float module, item 71 But check the TM, I'm familiar with that issue on the...

Also, up in my area folks tell me Facebook Marketplace is the place to be....

If you have good batteries but a bad alternator, run it with chargers on the batteries to get yourself a little more run time.... or just fix the alternator! :unsure:

On that machine to replace the cube pump your best bet is an Airtex E8135, not the E1074. The E8135 will reuse the existing fittings off the cube pump and drop right in place, just have to splice the wires. The E1074 has an odd right angle outlet with a different 1/8" pipe thread size than your...

What are the hours on your machine? Price depends a lot on hours and condition of the whole package.... gen, hours, ASK ( rust or rot ? ) , trailer ( rust, brakes operational ?) , tires ( any dry rot or cracks ?) .... hard to tell from pictures, but typically I've gotten in the $5500 - $6000 for...

See that! LITD and I were thinking the same thing and typing at the exact same time... 2 minds say fuel pump!

First thing I see is that crappy old Square body fuel pump. If it isn't dead already I would definitely replace it! Just because it is making noise doesn't mean its pumping fuel and building pressure. Bet you $1 that's your problem.... ;)

Is the alternator working properly on this machine? You still need 24V after starting to run the fuel pump, fuel solenoid etc. So it will only work if the charging system is working and just the batteries are no good or removed.

Excellent work guys ( Pete! ;) ) Glad she's reliable again, can't wait to see the remote start completed.... gonna be an awesome setup!

Correct, towards the control cube. Only down side is that you may have to either remove some sheet metal or remove the IP to get the fitting in. The vertical end is usually touching the underside of the sheet metal when installed. Is the end of your return hose a Female JIC? I can't recall...

You're correct, that fitting on top of the IP is supposed to be a Tee with the return line pointing forward. It's a flare fitting, 1/4" tube I believe. You can probably find it at a good auto parts store, if not I have them.

If your overflow bottle repair doesn't hold, a cheap solution is to buy the bottle for a Suzuki Samauri on ebay. Just have to alter the bottle overflow hose routing a little. You can cut yourself a new gasket ( if desired ) from flat sheet Red SBR rubber or silicone sheet. For the exhaust...

I think a slight tweak to the governor sensitivity will get you right where you want to be, but a 3hz droop at 110% doesn't sound that bad to me, but you may be able to get it a little better. Follow the TM Kurt referenced and go as far as you can without causing the generator speed to hunt up...

Have you performed the governor droop adjustment procedure in the TM? and also do you set your initial no load Hz at 61 - 61.5 per the Operation manual? if so you should have no problem keeping the Hz within spec. With both AC units running, what is your % Load? if you are around 75% there is...

What are you trying to accomplish with this project? Are you looking for something that would maintain Hz more accurately than the mechanical governor, to keep the Hz precisely stable with no droop at all? Only asking because a well adjusted governor should keep you rock solid up to around 50%...