Recent content by Ray70

Take the fuse out of the holder and test it. it is a slow blow fuse, but there is no such thing as a time delay reset fuse. Remove it and retest it.

$48!? Does that particular TM weigh 40 lbs. or something? it should qualify for USPS media mail for like $5, sounds like someone is trying to rip you off.....

Ah, I see... I read where you said Hz at 60 and everything else was working and I assumed that meant the outlet was also working. Looking above it looks like voltage there is a gen head issue, or regulator problem. When you said Quad fuse was good, I assume you tested with a meter?

Make sure you get every last speck of sand out of the thermostat housing and the water passages. Also might want to change the gasket #12 between the Water pump and the intermediate plate while it's apart.

Didn't you already say the HZ meter and outlet were working? if so you are making power. I've just skimmed over this whole thread briefly, but if sounds like you simply aren't getting K1 to close, correct? If you have Hz reading, have a voltage reading and the outlet works then the only thing...

YUP, just be careful, the center of the filter is usually the downstream / output side, so anything you pour in will go unfiltered into the pump. Not a big deal in my opinion as long as no dirt gets in there. Another option would be to dump the fuel out of both filters, pour seafoam into the...

Before pulling the injector, take 2 minutes and load it until it bogs, the push up on the linkage and see if engine revs up or not. That info is very important. Once that is done you can mess with the injector. If afterward you want to swap the injector, there is nothing you can really do to...

Fuel leaking from around the throttle shaft assembly will not cause your issue. It sounds ( as dog Breath mentioned ) like a lack of fuel , possibly due to a bad injector, or maybe a bent governor arm. One way to help figure it out is to manually push up on the throttle linkage while it is...

Regarding you oil/water mixture, oil floats on top of antifreeze so you should use a syringe, siphon or other device to see how much oil is in there. Either way it's not a good sign, but it could be a small amount just floated to the top in the filler neck... cross fingers.... Also Opti lube...

It probably belongs on the page with the picture of the CVT winding, but can we add a note to that page, figure 6 7.1 that says an "002 CVT assembly has 8 wires total through each hole" and a "003 CVT assembly has 4 wires total through each hole"? If we're going to modify the TM anyway?

Correct, most likely its the VR. Typically 1 of the 3 transistors on the VR goes bad. There is a testing section in the TM, but you have to build a test unit. @kloppk can better explain the testing and he also offers an upgraded replacement VR if yours is in fact bad.

Definitely would normally suspect dirty switches, but for some reason he isn't getting a fault light. Normally it should throw the short circuit or overcurrent light. Could be a combination of issues... dirty switches causing a false overload AND another issue with the short circuit / overload...

I assume the fault light is working? I would not suspect K1 to be the problem, but you can test it by applying 24V to X and y with the machine running ( disconnect X and Y's wires before testing ) run under the same load and see if it disconnects. That will tell you if K1 is the problem or if...

Me too! I've seen or read it before, but no luck looking anywhere. Luckily I had one of my machines to use as a reference AND knew an 003 needed 1/2 as many turns as the 002 box I was using for the donor parts, so 4 wires per hole... The SS member buying the box also had a damaged one on hand...

002 TM shows the same image. Guess it's not intended to be accurate. I must be missing where ever it says how many windings it should have.