Recent content by Ray70

Next thing I would do is pull the other metering pump and try the same test to see if the rack is hanging up due to an issue with the other metering pump. It is advised to reinstall the first pump before you remove the 2nd, just so the rack stays in position, but honestly I have always taken all...

I would double check your charging system. If the machine will not stay running on its own you must not be getting enough amperage out of the charging system to keep the fuel pumps, solenoid, etc. running. Also sounds like possibly 1 bad battery, but I think you also have a charging issue. Maybe...

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I would definitely say the module as well. The issue is not that you only have 23.xV , the pump will definitely still run on 23V but if you put a load on that 23v line you will find it drops to probably around 6V, which will not run the pump. It's the module causing you to not have voltage once...

I think maybe some additional cold weather testing might fit the bill here... The thermostat should do a decent job of maintaining engine coolant temp, within reason, but maybe the wind and air drawn in by the fan is contributing to cooling down the water separator and other fuel system...

If you want to verify the fuel solenoid you can untie the safety wire ( assuming it's there ) that holds the lever on the side of the IP in the counter clockwise position. Shut the machine off and throw the lever to the right to manually shut off the IP. If that kills the machine immediately...

Definitely test your sending unit. A dead spot in the sender will also peg the gage all the way up. The dead spots can also be intermittent, so check closely. Make sure you disconnect the sense wire from that gage before testing it otherwise you will get an incorrect reading. I would just...

Makes sense. At the temps you are talking about it looks like most of the common anti-gel additives ( including howes ) are questionable at best, despite their advertisements of -65F With Diesel 911 being a NO-GO at as little as -20F, which is right where you are at. I'm no diesel expert but...

Although it's a little late now , but did you ever get to try bleeding the injectors by cracking the injector lines and cranking the engine? This would have also answered Guy's question above as well. Still no harm if you already pulled and sent the injectors since 9/10 times they at least need...

Sure, not problem. Send me a PM and I will give you my address to ship them to. I will check them out.

Something still doesn't seem right. I can't believe the engine isn't producing enough BTU's to maintain combustion?? There's gotta be something else wrong. Once running the coolant temp shouldn't drop too much if the thermostat is working, and the machine should not smoke and shut down just...

Holy Guacamole! $6ea. I would never have guessed... 5 years ago we closed up one of the manufacturing plants where I work and they let employees take ANYTHING that wasn't considered part of the building! I got an unbelieveable amount of stuff, everything from machine shop equipment, inspection /...

To get the crimp ends off just slit it down the side with a Dremel and cut-off wheel. Replace the line with 1/4" fuel / transmission cooler line and either use squeeze type clamps or regular hose clamps.

Ah, you guys were typing faster than me! You got 2 replies in before I could type 1. Sounds like your check balls are not working correctly as well as clogged strainer. Clean everything up and reassemble and test, you should be fine. I have never seen a video, but they are so simple to take...

I wouldn't worry about buying parts for the original pump. If you disassemble it and clean everything including the 2 check balls, plunger and strainer, etc. and it still doesn't work there is nothing else you can "replace". At that point your best bet is just purchase either an Airtex 24V pump...