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I did the same on my M35; ended up replacing all the brake lines in the front using the off the shelf lengths from NAPA. I found out the hard way that you need to file the end down 1/8" after using the tube cutter, because the tube becomes "work hardened" at the cut and will not flare correctly.
Great Thread! - Thanks for BEHR numbers. I am going to match the Krylon Camo Rattle can. That way I will make for easy touch down the road (not sure how the Kyrlon over latex will work). I will post picts when done with the M105. Attached is the HD BEHR match to the Krylon Camo
Very Nice work! - Thanks for BEHR numbers. I am going to try using a match to the Krylon Camo Rattle can. That way I will be able to touch up easily. I will post picts when done with the M105. Attached is the match to the Krylon Camo, if interested.
:ditto:
I installed my remote reservoir after the front right brake line let go and I discovered it while going down a very steep hill in town, which I had to ride out into a local farmers field (he was very good about it). That was a adrenaline laced ride and I was very fortunate that it did...
Take a look at this thread, I made up a connecector to go to the existing trailer connection. (unless the connector is beyond repair!)
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/55613-m101a2-trailer-wiring-connector.html
I had the same problem when going too quickly from reverse to first; the shift tower somehow jumped out of its proper location. I jacked the rear end up to take the pressure off of the transmission. The forks had positioned the gears in both reverse and 3rd (If I remember correctly). If I had...
I used two farm jacks on one side, cribbed it and then moved to the the other side to lift the bed off of my M105 trailers to work on them -This should work for the M101 as it is lighter2cents
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