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I only clean housings like that when I'm rebuilding them. The rest of the time I just wipe the crud out of the bottom with my hand or a rag. Just seems like a waste of money to me.

If you use the factory tool or a good copy of it I don't think that any torque correction will be necessary because the drive and socket have zero offset. If you make one you will need to use the formula In the first pic. Also if the torque adapter is at 90° angle to the torque wrench no...

lol I never noticed the crack in that pic before.

Got any close up pictures of the broken housing? I would love to see how it failed. Hope your build up goes smooth.

^^^x2 That's good stuff.

lol thanks funny guy. You must have that rare selective vision problem. I said it was a diode. And how is it wrong to insulate it so it doesn't short?

The bevel on the end of the gear helps it mesh when the bendix part of the starter is pushed out engage the ring on the flex plate. Check the alignment and shim as necessary to acquire the proper clearances. Get the TM and read up if you don't understand what i mean.

That looks more like diode that is stuck in their. I don't know about you but that would bug the heck out of me having that flopping around in the breeze without any insulation on it. Time to break out the big shrink sleeve? I'm sure if you pull up the schematic it will show what the...

Wow. LMFAO!! Been their done that. Glad you got it out.:mrgreen:

That's true. The only reason I said that is because the last time i looked at my truck the front part of the spring is fairly close to level. Then again I didn't put the inclinometer on it and its sitting on uneven ground. Next time I won't over simplify things so much.

Don't forget to drain it first. You wont get anywhere if it has coolant in it. The tank is a giant heat sink by itself let alone when its filled water/ coolant.

Even if you rearch the springs, or put spacers between the frame and shackle brackets etc. your still going to have geometry issues. It's not like you can order up a offset steering arm to correct the angles. A spacer between the top of the knuckle and the arm would work but I don't know if...

:nothingfunny: Your going to make your local heavy truck mechanic rich....[thumbzup] Neglect.... Letting it sit for a month......:cookoo:

I think the engineers @ Paccar would argue with you on that one. I'm not a fan of blocks either but their is a time and a place for everything. It all depends on the design.

The white metal you see is lead solder. I would recommend taking it to a radiator shop if you have never repaired one before. It's easy to do more harm than good to a radiator if your not experienced with a torch. If you do try You will need acid core solder from you local welding shop and a...

Don't forget bump steer due to the drag link not being parallel to the ground because of the added height of the block. The more extreme the angle of the drag link the more the truck will want to rip the steering wheel out of your hands when you hit a bump or dart one direction.

Try some Permatex #2 on the pump cover.

an after thought............... A trick that a old timer taught me to seat brushes on generators and starters.. After installing the new brushes in the brush holder use double sided tape to stick a strip of sand paper to the slip rings. Then install the rotor into just the back housing and...

Wow that is weird, but I'm glad to hear that they are working. Was their grease on the slip rings where the brushes ride? I'm curious about how much your fuel economy will change since you backed the timing down. I have a feeling it will go down slightly.

Did you get alternator sorted out?