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Nice thing about this hobby is, you can keep it as stock as you like, jazz it up to your heart and wallet’s (and spouse’s content, as the case may be) or turn it back to as close to stock as suits your fancy. Welcome to the madness. Enjoy. Norm

Goes on top of the injector pump. Solenoid. Make sure your IP has one.

Not even sure you'd need to get them "red hot." I once owned a 1975 Norton 850 Commando. Brits used a solid copper head gasket. Local shop annealed this when replacing a worn out valve lifter. A year later I put in a set of Silicon-bronze valve guides, lapped the valves, and annealed the...

air conditioning.

Congratulations. Welcome to the madness. Enjoy.

Another tip from an old roadie/ham radio guy: many times you can improvise a solution from what you have on hand. I HAD bought a grommet for the battery box hole for the 200A alternator cable, couldn't find it. Had some 1/4" ID fuel line handy (with internal braiding), so I cut a length of it...

Sorry if that was confusing. I'd buy again, but I'd go over the truck with a fine-toothed comb. One of those "wish I knew then what I knew now" things. The one I bought had a cracked 218 transfer case and two bent wheels (just enough to make some road noise). Xfer case likely due to forklift...

Welcome to the madness. Keep us posted (pictures when you got 'em). Norm

If you have a fakebook account, there are MANY HMMWVs available on the various FMV groups like "Hmmwv swap meet" HMMWV and a few others I'm not connected to. I've seen some smoking deals come and go. Your price isn't unreasonable, and from what I've seen, about a year or two after people have...

Yep, that's a 3-speed. DoD wound up just swapping out 6.5 engines for 6.2s as time went by. Detroit Diesels then GEP motors (more desirable) and yeah, "detonate" is a general term for total internal destruction, or otherwise broken beyond repair. That #8 cylinder thing I read about, not very...

Hoo-boy. ALL other things being equal, probably the 6.5 IF there's a 4-speed with it. This topic's been beaten to death and the only thing I can find - consistently - favoring the 6.5L optimizer NA motor is the extra power. I've read a number of reports about NEW 6.5L NA motors detonating...

Thought that MIGHT be the case. I've seen a 400A alternator before with the eyebolt. NFW do I think anyone but The Hulk could install that solo. So I'll just leave this plugged for now. I did manage to install my 200A by myself, no issue with the left spash shield removed and some blankets...

200 Amp Niehoff generator question With the N1225-1 generator mounted, there's a threaded (about 3/8x16) hole more or less on top center. It's not chamfered/countersunk. Inside appears to be a solitary wire crossing the hole. Anyone know what this is for? Okay to plug up with something...

wire cable ferrule. poking around I found this: https://smile.amazon.com/SwageRight-Stainless-Steel-Sleeves-Ferrules/dp/B074B52VNC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stainless%2B3%2F16%2Bferrules&qid=1557444825&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1 But I found packs of 50 on the evil auction site once, from China, and used...

Might be brushes, or the regulator on the generator, OR bad connections. Oh, and a shot of belt dressing spray and/or check belt tension. Anyone else?

An ebay deal from about ten years back. Think it was about $220 delivered. I disassembed it, sand blasted and parkerized it, then gave it a coating of I don't recall which rattle can paint. Came with the lead jaw pads - and I bought a couple sets of other ones in rubber, aluminum and plastic...

Getting it back together isn't too hard. As far as sealing against air loss goes, there's not much of a seal on the end that goes to the driver toe heater tube. I have a tube of paintable caulk and I plan to run a bead along the FRONT edge where the cross-piece meets the frame and dog house...

As with most things mechanical, there's often a "special tool". About two years back I bought a box of "special tools" someone was selling here (and on the evil auction site) and this was one of them: Power steering pump pulley installer. It's in the manual. What it doesn't say is exactly...

Got into replacing broken down heater ducts. NOWHERE in the manual does it say the idiots at the American General factory used some kind of glue to hold the bottom of the diverter and the dashboard and cross-piece in place. Took HOURS poking and pounding with old wood chisels and paint...

MAN, what a chore. Took me a while to figure out the BOTTOM was glued in place. I have a collection of pain scrapers from decades past, and a cheap set of wood chisels I use for such jobs (I have a good set for woodwork). Inch by inch I pounded a 1 inch chisel, then a 3 inch paint scraper...