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Good mod, I like the louder click to let me know the starter is getting power. I know people had trouble with finding the part at napa. The part number is more specifically SME7018601, and comes in a plastic bag. Took a minute for the employee to find it, he was looking for a box with the part...

Haha, I figured it out. Dogheads mod was not at fault, it was the battery connection to the junction block. It must have loosened when I disconnected my batteries. Oops.

The stock relay stopped working this morning, thats why I decided to do the relay mod. I didn't know the relay wasn't necessary, now I'm not sure what to do. I didn't do the conversion. I am fairly certain it is the roscommon conversion.

I didn't realize I didn't need the relay since I have a 12 volt truck. I was wondering why it wasn't working... since I've already come this far, can I still wire it to work? Or have I really messed up...

Gotta be a sign. Probably have some wires backwards.

Call ORD, they do real lifts and know what they are talking about. Ditch the swaybar, you don't need it.

:ditto: Don't understand all the fear of exactly how much to put in. The enemy of these systems is HEAT, caused by friction. You won't hurt anything being a little over full. I'd rather be a little full, than a little empty. A few QUARTS too full, yeah you over did it and need to get some back...

Overhauled the entire steering system. Crossover steering, new steering box, new 1.5" HD tie rod, new stabilizer, new kingpin springs and bushings. No steering play, no wandering...just solid dependable steering.

Who cares how much it actually holds. X amount of quarts is a guide, you always fill something till it shows right on whatever you measure it with, be it a finger or dipstick...nothing else to it. I fill my differentials and T-case till it starts coming back out the hole, then I plug it back...

I have a glow plug card on Ebay right now :beer:

They have their advantages and disadvantages. Neither are weak, but if you put a full locker up front, expect to snap stub shafts a lot more often. I like my limited slip.

M1028 is very capable stock, detroit locker and limited slip differential in 1 ton axles. M1009, not so much with open differentials and 1/2 ton axles...but still better than an H3. No IFS systems to break. Those numbers don't mean jack, never heard of a vehicle being judged by angles.

That isn't the original relay, its been upgraded to a regular relay so not every one will look the same. Your starting issue doesn't sound like its the relay, more like bad glow plugs or controller if it gradually got worse. But anyways, a good replacement is napa part number ST85 for your...

Check all your connections to the batteries and to the starter, clean them with a file or sand paper. If its getting good power and still not cranking, might want to get the starter tested or just replace it. Good time to get the 28MT gear reduction starter, don't forget the proper bracket (GM...

Lift 'kits' are over priced... half of it is paying for the sticker that says 'procomp' like its some sort of compensation badge. You can do it for less money and just as good, if not stronger. Would be happy to discuss other potential options if you send me a PM.

I just threw away a whole winterization kit. Dunno why people get so excited about them. Might still have a few bits and pieces left... if anyone wants them they can pay shipping.

I wonder if I can just get them to give me the lines... I don't trust mechanics I don't know working on a not quite stock vehicle.

Never seen an oil filter crushed like that... Must have been on there really good. I like Fram filters, nothing wrong with them. Its not the filters fault an idiot put it on at one point. I like the grip Fram puts on the bottom for getting it hand tight easier.

It won't last very long. These engines weren't designed for that kind of abuse. Get something that can handle the power.

Don't have pictures of the process. Its only two wires... From the blue to the switch, from the switch to ground.