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If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Gov-bomb differential doesn't use clutch packs like a regular limited slip, no additive required. Its supposed to be filled up to the fill hole. Axles have breathers, you can't hurt it by 'overfilling' it.

These are 15/15/42 swampers...pretty close to the deuce tire size. 7" lift with trimmed fenders. Don't mind the paint, previous owners design. I'm going to paint it back to desert tan someday. In Alaska the maximum frame height is 28 inches. I'm at 27 1/2 with fully aired 42's. Might be...

If I could find a decent set of deuce tires that aren't bald and beat to ****, I'd run them for street tires. I'd ditch the deuce rims.

I like that. Its cheap, easy, and probably just as good.

When people get in they are surprised that I have a decent sound system. Door speakers, amp and small sub hidden behind seat. CB radio is mounted on the dash. Oh, and my sweet saddle blanket style seat covers.

It weighs more than you think it does, especially with a t-case still attached. We pulled one the other day and got it off a tall tranny jack designed for lift bays with 3 people. You can probably get it off a short tranny jack by yourself if you're careful.

Looks pretty clean. Only negative thing i've heard about manual transmissions and the 6.2 is that its hard to get used to where to shift with the 6.2's small RPM range.

Yep, it sure is chopped up. Thats why it works so well. All the cutting, breaking off useless stuff, no mechanical knowledge whatsoever all makes a good trail rig ;) Another pavement princess lost to the ignorant.

My drive shaft hits the crossmember and makes a popping sound when I go over bumps, I thought it was a bad shock at first. I need to clearance the crossmember. You might have a similar issue since you are close to the same height.

They don't have to be 'new' springs, a 52" spring is stock in the rear of a lot of Chevy trucks. You can get them from a junk yard for a few bucks. Swap the front springs, get a couple u-bolts and a heavy duty spring plate, and some extended brake line from your local shop. You don't have to...

If you can see splines, its too short.

I say this a lot...lift 'kits' are a waste of money. Half the cost is brand name. I'd rather do a shackle flip and spring swap/lift springs.

Depending on the manufacturer of your hubs, 'rebuild' kits are available. They include all new snap rings, o-rings, and screws. My mile marker instructions recommended loctite on the screws.

Getting the transmission out is the easy part. We always seem to forget the t-case shifter. You'll be wondering why the **** it isn't tilting down and notice the shifter all jammed up lol. Don't forget to put the torque converter bolts back in, or you won't go anywhere and you'll think you...

Heres my steering...decided it was time to upgrade after breaking steering bolts on the street. 7" lift, no those aren't blocks in the front. Zero rates. Notice the missing crossmember. 3/8 plate welded to the inside of the frame with a steel pipe in between them. The frame needs to be braced...

You can't completely drain the fluid without dropping the transmission. The torque converter needs to maintain its fluid or you will destroy it, and theres no way of knowing how much you drained without being able to see it.

The detroit locker exacerbates the issue since its designed to have a little play in the rear drive shaft. Before the filter change, if I gave the truck some heavy throttle it would **** near bounce my head off the rear glass when it shifted.

Thats a normal quirk, I believe its covered in the TM. The solution described is exactly what you did, give it a little gas to see if it shuts off. If it does, you're good to go.

That doesn't seem right...you should be able to replace the gasket. They go bad, it happens...doesn't mean the engine needs to be rebuilt.