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Any chance of finding one of these sheets for the old 816 crane pump...????? looked in some of the TMs but sorry, I fell asleep and reverse osmosis didn't happen through the drool on the keyboard.....
The 138 is finicky sometimes, but overall it seems to be the stronger of the two, I agree I dislike the Sprague myself.... However, I am at a loss as to how your destroying them frequently. Unless severe gear jamming is occurring. IE: rocking fwd and rev in a mudhole... where the Sprague cant...
The winches will likely rip out what ever they are hooked to... a BFT is going to become an uprooted Tree shortly,,,,,,,,, I have nightmares about this day......
I cant vouch for the newer 5 tons with the electronics but my older 809 series is very easy. what worked for me when my mil batterys went south was to take the mil slave jump cable and remove the mil ends and add clamps like any other jumper cable. I found the battery on my Dually-Cummins...
PTO,
The 816 rear winch is shaft driven from the Power divider which switches power delivery from the crane to the rear winch. The oil box on the left is the worm gear of the winch, the sprocket on the right is where the drive shaft from the Pwr divider terminates and a reduction is made from...
Got the shaft back in last nite, and this afternoon should be close to 50*F so the irritable beast may fire so I can test and re-cradle the boom after 3 months.
I ended up torching more out of the crossmember to get the angle and clearance correct, until something goes bump....
Ended up...
correct, I barely fit in the space above the diff to install that pig, and as much as I ponder it, I cannot figure a good way to drop the oil pan and rig a flange up there right now during the winter. Since this shaft runs at (now 25*) angle, and that crane bed crossmember is not alterable...
Got the shaft back from my machinist, the shaft fought him and he ended up breaking a few end mills from it hopping out of the cradle, then while cutting the splines his mill got out of sequence, thus--- start over. Prices thus far, machining-$580. Drive line shop flanges/yokes/joint. $150...
ended up with a Schwitzer 4LHR ???? I think,,,, cant remember, I listed it in the Jake thread.
5 ton hotrodding, M816 Jakes and a Turbo, thread by me-wcuhillbilly.
cant remember how to do a link right now. I had a locked up NTC 350 855 Cummins which is the bigger hP version of our 250s...
Blaylock Turbo, Kansas, 620-856-5227. Helped me out tremendously when adding a turbo to an old tired NHC 250... had a locked up AR1200?? that they took the time to school me on, and came up with a suitable alternative to the Ht3b with a Schwitzer, for my 816 36,000lbs road hog.....
Trip to PO is 3 miles, Trip to hardware store is 75 round trip,,,, plus multiple trips back to hardware store for the "oops, wrong part" factor, or the "we don't have that but we can get it in next Tuesday" factor. I request PO money orders or actual bank cashiers checks from a verifiable...
Plates would be nice,, mine are completely bleached and I have to go by memory as to what does what. Im ok with it but when the wife is operating and Im rigging, things get a little hinky... (helmet is usually required PPE)
No offense taken SD, I completely understand, I run a small business outside of my day job and seem to be the primary construction contractor for my wifes Bed and Breakfast remodel, along with selling off some of my unused/not needed 5.9 Cummins parts. Not using paypal has hampered me some by...
1987 sounded fishy to me, likely that was an overhaul, as by the early 80s the 816 had been replaced with the 936s. as In they weren't buying 816s only servicing them. mine is a 1970 formerly of Marble Co, and came from Salt lake. I registered it with the state and the insurance...
my flashlight is working ok for now, Still want a kit if there was another option besides Paypal,, I gave up on those bastards along time ago when my account/bank account info was leaked, and a lot of smut went out with my name on it.... they and ebay wouldn't make it right so I walked away...