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Snake oil. Someone must have figured it works in differentials, lets put a magnet on the oil pan or filter. Differentials don't have filters, engines do.

You are doing it wrong. You don't bend anything and you don't need a press.. Kind of hard to explain without pictures. Put the u-joint so it sits on top of both vise jaws, and smack the base of the axle shaft ears with a hammer. The only thing that should be moving is the shaft, the u-joint...

I just realized what was wrong! Whoever did the 12 volt conversion didn't bypass the resistor bank! I was getting the normal voltage drop+the resistor necking down the voltage, No wonder I only had 4-5 volts. D'oh!

Its a 12 volt system. Relay is fine, its brand new. The glow plugs were bad, I think I tested them wrong the first time. Put new ones in and the voltage will slowly climb towards 12 volts with the relay engaged.

I disconnected all the glow plugs, and what do you know...12 volts on the bottom post. This is really weird, I tested all the plugs and they checked out. Maybe I didn't test the plugs right.

Checked that already. Still don't see where the problem is.

Before anyone jumps down my throat to search, I have. Thats how I got this far. I used the attached picture as my guide. The relay functions as it should. It clicks on and off when I press my glow plug button. I have 12 volts at the top, and 12 volts to the two smaller posts with the key in the...

Yeah, I would get it flushed first. Diesel radiators are more expensive than gas radiators, I wouldn't want to buy a new one.

My CUCV has two different keys, since the doors and ignition aren't original. Any lock from the same year of vehicle will fit, having mismatched locks is kind of a pain though. I always forget which key is for what.

I was thinking about going with their electric door lock kit. LMC Truck Parts - Page 17 Not sure if it includes keys or anything.

I would first look at the shift linkage on the left side of the transmission, sounds to me like its a little out of whack.

Didn't need any, its really easy. 1. Find the light blue wire coming out of the glow plug card, it is in between the purple wire, and dark blue wire. You can't miss it. 2. Get a wire splice connector and splice a wire into the light blue wire. 3. Run the wire you connected to the light blue...

Thanks, I was able to pull it out. It just about sent me flying out of the truck, it was in there pretty good.

I installed a manual switch and figured I would pull the card and sell it to someone who would use it. From reading the TM it looks like it should just pull right out, I removed the end cap and reefed on it pretty hard and it wouldn't budge. Am I missing something painfully obvious here? I'd...

Its just diesel. Fuels certified for being used in road vehicles are taxed. Heating oil, red diesel, etc...is all diesel but certified and taxed differently. I wouldn't go anywhere near red diesel in a vehicle that sees any on road use, it will linger...and I'm sure you know Murphy. He always...

Um... Ok, done spreading the BS around? A stud would be just as much work as a bolt broken off flush. I don't know if you've ever looked at a stud, its basically a bolt with threads on both ends, in opposite directions. You put a nut and lockwasher on the end you can see, when you want to take...

I would imagine continuous use of a corrosive fuel will destroy the seals in the IP. It wasn't made with that kind of use in mind.

Good point. Wasn't thinking about brakes at first, was thinking differential or axle shaft problem. Make sure you didn't pinch any brake lines and the e-brake cable.

What else did you do? Swapping springs wouldn't lock a wheel up.

Not quite 'factory'.