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Like the other guy said, the resistor is cooked. As far as it not heating very efficiently, remove the glove compartment box and look at the cables that control the vent. They might need adjusting, the vent may not be opening all the way. Mine would get stuck between defrost and the regular setting.

I have axle wrap. And if you don't plan on wheeling, don't waste money on the high steer arm. Just go regular crossover.

Run a shackle flip and 52" spring swap with zero rates up front. Its cheaper, its strong, and does the same thing. 52" Front Spring Swap Shackle Flip 'N' Switch EZ Inch I'm running a very similar setup, just with taller stuff.

I guess I should stay home 24/7 :roll:

The transmission will work, but the torque converter wont. Use the NP205, no point in not using it. Drive shaft will still work.

You can't always stay off the road, those suggestions won't get you any where (Literally.) Coming from someone who drives in these conditions every day the biggest mistakes I see people make are: 1. Giving it gas around corners. Take your foot OFF the gas when entering ANY grade of turn, don't...

I have a cell phone in my pocket and wear a good coat. Too cold to mess with stuff this time of year on the side of the road. No sense in freezing to death if it can be towed to a buddies garage and fixed where its warm. Different story during the summer when it gets used off the beaten path...

Hard to tell from the pictures, you can't diagnose an oil leak from the bottom... you start from the top and see where it starts. Could be anything. Looks like the pans used in winterization kits, its a cover that is welded on. The holes vent exhaust from the oil pan heater. If it was an actual...

Something definitely isn't right... I slow down on hills, but nowhere near that slow. I'm running a heavy rig too. I usually click it down into 2nd if it doesn't do it itself, sometimes my passing gear will kick it in. I have had a similar problem with a gas vehicle due to partially clogged...

Do you always try to pass on worthless thoughts? Im sure his tires were made after 1946, and are rated to well past 80. He should be worried about over revving the engine, not his tires blowing up.

I think you would be happier just saving up to get it fixed, then decide if you want to sell it or not. You aren't going to get what you want for it when it needs a vital fuel system component replaced, lets be realistic here.

Or you can run the cables through the grille to the front battery.

For a stock height vehicle, the NAPA shocks are pretty good.

An engine swap is a completely different story now isn't it? We were talking about a clutch fan delete, not a 6.2 delete.

You have it backwards, clutch fan+water=plan for failure. Electric fans are used when crossing deep water. Electric fans can be shut off. Clutch fan cant be shut off, they seize up the engine when submerged. Going to electric fans is stupid if done for any other reason than water crossing. The...

Don't know what you mean by lines running across the radiator, sounds unsafe. But anyways... a Ford Windstar fan is an almost perfect fit, and is already a dual setup. Doghead, its for deleting the clutch fan.

This is why we carry 55 gallon drums, leave them at camp...go out for the day, and come home to the 'gas station'. And to the other guy...you are stuck on this whole 'weekend' thing...people go out for longer than two days you know.

The hubs aren't CUCV specific, you can get them just about anywhere. Hubs aren't cheap, warn premium hubs are 220$ a set. Might as well do it right, replace both sides so you don't have some cobbled together axle.

The only hard part about installing a windshield is removing it, sounds like you can skip that step. Installing a windshield isn't as hard as it sounds. All you need is butyl tape and window caulk. Obviously doing it yourself won't be as pretty as a professionally installed window, but it can be...

How cold is it? Just because you have volts doesn't mean you have cold cranking amps.