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^^^ Yep.

Try 6-10 again, and floor your accelerator.

I'll come out and say the original idea is stupid. Your VM and the clicks will tell all you you need to know. Why complicate a stupid system?

I guess it is pink. Mine has just faded to a dirty orange.

The IP wire is orange on my CUCV. I'd first start with changing the fuel filter and go from there.

It's on the list someday, but for under a buck for a fix, the old filter setup really seems to be working just fine.

I just could not get the freeze plug to work. Couldn't really get it pressed in enough. I went ahead and removed the base and tapped the hole. Seems to be working fine, but what a PITB to get to that point fiddling with that plug. It seems to fit, but the one I got just would not go deep...

I am doing this today. I put the freeze plug in, primed, and it's leaking at the plug. Any suggestions? Also, what orientation do you put the plug in? Maybe I'm doing it backwards?

I do not think it is wise to build a winch mount off of the brush guard. No matter how much you gusset it to the very same brush guard.

The solargizer was one of the best additions to my1028.

If it will slave start, I'm guessing your batteries, while statically testing fine, are really not up to the task.

Anecdotal, yes, but this recent account from a good friend of mine would lead me to the obvious suggestion: http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/292403-PSA-Treadwright-Retread-Tires-Dangerous!?p=4505552#post4505552

Yes, the poster is aware of that because Warthog posted the page, and highlighted the circuit, and the page number is very obvious from the most excellent post which will help many people down the road, as his posts have in the past numerous times. But thanks for adding another little gem to...

As I have posted many times, an automatic charging relay is a much better solution. Take a peek at them.

Simple fix that really stopped a nagging issue that I did years ago. I hate it when people see a big truck and think they have to slam the door. On the pickups, you can reach around and hold the retainer so it doesn't drop. Mark the circle with a sharpie and keep it a little loose and you...

I ended up putting the old one in got it installed. All is good. Thanks for the reply and offer. Edit to add: Be aware of this part from Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale. It was brand new and showed no indication of tampering or failure. Add a bit of PIT* to your life. But thankfully...

Everything tested OK with the DMM. Now my question is, do I replace the capacitor with the old one, or just omit it? It is my understanding that it's sole purpose is to reduce radio noise.

Was it a bad part or an install issue?

This connection is broken. Any idea what function it serves? It comes from the Barrel type Capacitor. Any clues as to why it would blow?

There was some rubberized goopy stuff when I took it apart originally. I must have forgot a couple pieces. I removed them and don't see any signs of shorts in that area, although the wire does look a little bulged. Here's a close up of that wire.