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Hint: OP is extremely close to a southern border.

I find that 5w40 Rotella helps a lot in the winter as well.

I'd replace the blades before bending the armature.

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I laughed.

Please don't use starting fluid.

If you have ever run out of fuel, then you realize how difficult it is to steer and stop a CUCV, especially going down a hill.

If you fuel hasn't completely gelled, which I doubt it would do at just those temps, get some heat on that block, charge up your batteries, and I bet she fires up after groaning at you. You might give this a try too: http://www.powerservice.com/d911/

Can I maybe suggest, once you've figured out your electrical, that you close the floor vent? Jeebus, it's got to be 2' above the ground. Why so much water, and if so, maybe isolate it in a sealed box?

I do that dance everytime I fix anything on my MutherCucker. And, then, pessimistically, it's something else... Doh! Which, on the up-side, is an excuse for another beer and dance when I fix that. And the cycle starts again. We should hook up, I'm just 2.5 hours west of you guys. I've...

Your symptoms are all linked to one or two fuses from the fuse panel by your left foot (for starters). Get in the cab, start there, before you concur the engine bay. Yours is definitely originating from a poorly grounded fuse box. No need right now to tear anything apart. What you want to do...

Just spent some time with the DMM. Bottom line is that the appropriate wires to the headlamp socket at the lamp are getting 12v when they are supposed to. This leads me to only one conclusion that the low beam bulbs/filaments blew out. That seems strange to me that they would both go out at...

That would be my guess as well, but I wonder why it would kill the engine?

I'm going to bump this thread because it covers my problem. Things done in the last few thousand miles: 1) replaced dimmer switch on the column; 2) Sylvania superstars installed; and 3) HD Relay from LMC installed. Symptoms: 1) Marker lights/turn signals work; 2) Low beams do not work - both...

Nope, just click .... click .... click. Used to be the same, followed with, wait .... trying to squirt, little squirt, squirt barely. And that's after removing the resistor on the pump and swapping the passenger and driver's side lines. Another be done with it CUCV mod.

Napa Part No. 665-1616 $20. White wire is positive, pink is negative.

I don't see one in the TM's though. 10-11 of the unit maint. manual doesn't show it. The parking function makes sense. So, I'm guessing pull the one plug, strip, rewire to the new pump and keep the other one hooked in without removal? Wish I could actually find out what is what with that upper...

I'm going to do this tomorrow. Does anyone know why are there 2 harnesses to the pump when only 2 wires, pink and white, are necessary?

What are folks using for a replacement pump? Mine is just unbearable and downright unsafe. I've tried everything and am just going with a replacement.

"While Off-Road Maximum Traction tires are branded with the M+S symbol and able to churn through deep snow, their typical oversize applications and the absence of snow-biting sipes in their large smooth lugs can challenge their on-road wintertime traction on packed snow and icy surfaces."...