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Well... my old voltmeter is now fixed... thanks to all for the information... i had to go to radioshack, and get the 150ohm resistors.. tied 2 together and tested... it works as it should, got it reinstalled.. only to find yet another problem.. front right blinker no longer works.. after...
Unaffiliated...
a 203/205 doubler.. is the high/low gear side of a NP203 transfercase mounted in front of a NP205 transfercase. basicly, what it does, is when the 205 is in low range, you can then switch the 203 to low, which will double your low gear ratio, in essense doubling your low...
jawalter,
thanks your your input.. my truck isnt in a postion to start and run at the moment, but i was curious, as this is what i have done yesterday... pulled old voltmeter from dash. confirmed voltage on a test battery ( 13.1) Used jumper wires and connected old voltmeter.. it went straight...
i simply did the following... with tire laying on ground... place pvc insert on tire standing up on edge.. ( like a display in tire stroe..) take foot and place it in center and stomp insert in...:jumpin: once its inside tire.... turn insert and it should pop in with ease..:driver:
Question, I had picked up a MV volt meter, but it seems to be for a Deuce or another type MV that has anclosed guage panel, as the back of gauge is clear for illumation ( no provision for dash light in CUCV ) Do you also have to install the 300ohm resistor to used this in a CUCV?
The onboard air i went with is on order now. $550.00 went with VIAIR’s X’treme Duty Onboard Air System the specs are listed below
PN 10009 It is a pre-packaged compressed air solution that provides two 350C, 100% duty cycle compressors, a 2.0 gallon air tank, ( adding an extra 8 gallon )...
okay... here is some trail pictures, over the past summer, looking to complete a few more add on's in time for when its nice to go riding again... onboard air, rework rear bumber, sliders, and redesign/fab transfercase cross member for 203/205 doubler. ( currently too much flex - keeps...
to give you and idea on looks...
I'm running recentered 12b H1's with BFG Baja Ta's, Pvc inserts, and rock rings on my M1009. but i also have a ORD 4" lift with 52" Springs and Axles from a M1008 with an E locker in front.
it probably wouldnt hurt to loosen trans/TC mount, but i would feel safer if you leave the bolt loose during that process, while your lifting motor. as you dont want anything to shift/roll or fall while your underneath. that would make for a bad day.
yes... loosen both sides... and than using a floor jack/bottlejack and a block of wood, jack up on side to relieve tension, remove bolt... jack further up and remove/replace mount. lower motor down and reinstall bolt.. ( leave loose...) repeat other side... once complete reomve jack and...
Also note the PVC inserts, the edges were smoothed to a crown, and notched for the valve stem, and a hole drilled.. I assuming to equalize air, or used in the manufacturing process... Well worth the money...
Yes.. the PVC inserts i picked up from trail Fab Worthy. it was just easier and they are lighter than the rubber run flats. I didn’t not want to contend with cutting the ribs of the MV rubber runflats.
When off on a trail, I will air down the tires. 15Psi in front and 10 Psi in rear for...
Ive broken 3 Steering gearbox houses so far, ( keep breaking mounting tabs completely off, with only the gearbox being supported by input shaft and power steering lines...) And thats with the ORD steering brace already installed. Going back with the ORD frame repair/upgrade kit ( Plate Steel...
I got the wheels and tires from a member at Tennessee offroad forum, then went and got recenters, rings, PVC inserts, O rings, and valve extensions from Trail Fabworthy. Spent a better part of a Saturday, cutting and fabbing these HEAVY things up..
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