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The exciter armature and the diodes generate the current for the main generator's rotating field. Those parts make up the rotating assembly. The exciter field is stationary, and the regulator controls the current to it. The exciter's output from its rotating armature and diodes are connected...

Just for reference, what are the part numbers of the diodes?

40 foot long school busses and motor homes often have the exhaust going all the way to the rear. If you choose a pipe diameter like 2" or 2-1/2", I don't think you'd have a problem. As the gasses cool, they take up less volume anyway. But going out the roof and aiming the pipe the way you...

Did you have a chance to test them?

I didn't mean at the posts, I meant on the actual posts themselves. If the battery voltage, measured on the posts, dropped that low, I expect the batteries themselves have a problem, in addition to other possible problems with the system. If the batteries are in good condition and fully...

If this is really true I think you'd have some other symptoms, like smoking battery cables. Did you measure this at the actual battery posts? How about now that you're cleaned the battery connections?

After a couple hours it will probably come up to 26+ volts, but you should verify that if you want to be sure the charging system is working.

What's the DC voltage at the output of the regulator with the engine running? Keep in mind that the regulator output is only about 7 amps, so it can take quite a bit of time to bring the battery up to 26+ volts. It's possible that a dirty fuse holder or other problem caused the fuse to get...

Did you touch the meter leads together and read the ohms, then subtract that from the value you got for the transformer windings? Reading very low resistances like you're doing is a little tricky.

If it were mine, I think I'd pull off each plug and spray it and its receptacle with DeoxIT D5 and reconnect.

Something inside the genset. That wire does not carry generator output current to the output lugs.

That's not what I meant at all. I was guessing that the relay unit has an internal problem that shorted AC to ground (as an example), causing that wire to overheat. Wires don't go bad and burn, so that replacing them fixes the problem.

Something that made it carry a lot more current than it was supposed to. No, but fixing the thing that made it carry too much current probably will. That terminal on the relay is marked "AC", which implies that generator output is connected to it so it can sense when the voltage is too high...

If the capacitor on the barrier strip is shorted it would be shorting the 24v battery to ground, which wouldn't continue for long! It's just for radio noise suppression though, so you can take if out if noise isn't a concern. The fact that your fuse blew most likely means that the regulator...

These systems power the glow plugs during cranking, so you're pretty much always using them.

Definitely "turning over" (cranking), and definitely not starting.

Check each 12v light to see what voltage it actually has on it with the resistor you choose.

Depending on what arrangement of lights we're talking about, it's possible to run half on them from one battery and the other half on the second battery, and still keep the load balanced. This would work as long as the two banks of lights don't have to have a common ground.

There are many windings... you need to disconnect wires from only the terminals of the specific winding you're measuring.

Sorry, I read some stuff that made the Redline SI-1 appear to also work for diesels. I still wouldn't put anything with alcohol in it in my fuel system. It looks like Techron D is an additive made for diesels and contains PEA. There are several with PEA in this article...