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It was doing this before and I rebuilt it and it's been fine for months, but it's doing it again now. It's the short style.

Took it to get building supplies and found out the ****ing air pack is making the brakes drag AGAIN. aua

Had this problem with BOTH of my trucks. I rebuilt the airpack on one and had to replace it on the other. After that there were no more problems.

I removed the clamp to further inspect it since it did appear to be coming from inside the exhaust rather than something leaking on it. There was also a spot like this on the exhaust manifold joint so it appears to be exhaust related. During the drive it did start getting hot. It's never gotten...

Took the deuce camping in the desert last weekend. Found this white buildup on the outside of the turbo. Anyone know what it could be? Never seen anything like this before.

I got tired of the stock crap so I gutted it and installed a Blue Sea Systems marine grade panel. I'll add another when I do the 24v wiring.

Here's a visual.

Anyone tried the stock location with MRAP wheels? How about on the back of 109s?

A hydraulic bead breaker is one of the best tools ever made! I use one at work for all the big tires. A tire boomer for seating the beats is also another great tool. They take a lot of the fight out of changing a tire.

I would flush the whole system and rebuild the master cylinder in your case. There is no room for error in a single circuit system on trucks this heavy.

That happened to both my trucks recently. Turned out to be like doghead mentioned. The differential ports were plugged and not letting fluid back in and the brakes started dragging.

I put green silicone boots on my M35A2C in Dec. 2011. They got a small tear on the bottom of each one within a few months. They didn't come into contact with anything since I didn't offoad with it. They're still there and there's no dry rot. In 2013 I put on the same kind of green silicone boots...

I remember doing that floor job on mine in the blistering heat of July after I had pulled all the inner walls and insulation out. Of everything I've done on my 109, that job sucked the most! But it had to be done and I'm glad it's done. I used POR15 all around the bottom of the box and 1"...

I'm running the aluminum MRAP wheels dish out. Have the same problem as dezert ratt with the valve stems. First I'm going to try and find an valve stem extension that will fit. If that doesn't work I'll drill and tap a new one.

They get fairly warm but no problems yet. I suspect the seal creates some heat since the fronts barely get warm at all with everything torqued the same. Yes, it seals against the bearing race and that's what keeps the gear oil out and the grease in.

The problem I found with adjusting the rears for a slight clearance like the front or any other tapered bearing is the seal. If it's adjusted so there is any movement then the seal is loose and you will be pulling them all apart again. I learned that the hard way. I follow the way the TM says of...

My 109 would wander really bad when I first put on the T831s so I shimmed it and that took care of it. Now I put those T831s on my M35A2C and it wanders some over 55 but it's manageable. Not as bad as the 109 was. Going to shim it some. Like others mentioned, it just depends on the truck.

Both my trucks with the front locked will pull the wheel side to side while turning. I just figured that's how they were with the manual steering.

It's a cargo truck and the stuff in back is for display purposes.

Did you ever get the new style front axle seals for it? I'm a couple years in and still no leaks :D