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your example says the ins. co. changed the numbers FROM what was on the title...that is completely different than what I suggested.
The data plate does not have a VIN on it...it has a reg # and a serial number...so it is irrelevant to the VIN on the title...but if the VIN is both the reg#+Ser...
It's no different than building a car/trailer from scratch...it never had a VIN so you apply for a VIN then stamp it into the vehicle to match the title...THEN it becomes VIN tampering once it is on the title/vehicle. These trucks came without a VIN and one was created...you COULD stamp the GL...
No where was it said to add anything to the data plate. We are talking about creating a VIN for a vehicle that never had one before. The VIN will never be on the dataplate but both halves of it will. A trooper/judge will understand that the military vehicle did not come with a VIN from the GOV...
When you check the frame for the ser#...be sure and check high up on the frame rail almost on the top side... It's easier to hammer in a number on a flat surface than a vertical one...Mine is almost on top of the rail in 3/4 inch tall numbers... on the outside of the front left frame rail right...
I'm thinking they are VERY speed limited and useful to one of us only in some special task...here's the tire info from the brochure CWC listed in post #11 above...
Operating (detecting) tire pressure: 60 kPa (8.7 psi)
Off-road (sand) tire pressure: 100 kPa (14.5 psi)
On-road (asphalt) tire...
several of the other members had mentioned trans stuck in both hi/lo, and your problems started when you put the truck in gear...got me wondering if it was the trans having an issue...with the lock up conv it would hold the engine tight...maybe rock the longbar back and forth and have someone...
Welcome to SS!
Several of those sellers are members here on SS.
Yes they work great.
Yes they are the better way to go.
Most of us here have done this already.
Check the SS classifieds.
Karl,
Just saw this thread so I feel like I'm late in answering, but CBRMETALWORKS has a M920 w/ 16s that he drives to meets and tractor pulls...He might be able to give you some pointers...at least for next time...
MississippiRifle is looking to make his truck a dump in another thread. He might be interested in a dump with a blown engine...One door closes/another opens!
A dump WITH a winch is a M930. As far as I've sen in the T.O.s and on my M930 the answer is YES, the dump and winch are ran off the same pump. In the cab the PTO is actuated for the dump and winch by the same lever then there are separate levers for each function. I've never tried to do both at...
Gearing wise it would add top end speed, BUT... the tires themselves are speed limited to 55mph...probably due to the soft sidewalls offroad tires have. There's been some debate on here that the factory speed limit of the tires to 55 was set based on the tire being fully loaded which is near...
The TM does say that 15w40 is rated for 10-110f and you said it was -20 when you had the failure...the -20 was probably the biggest reason for the fail...-20 will honey up most anything ...that's where synthetics really shine and DON'T thicken up anywhere near as much as dino...
Remember to take 2 sets of jumper cables so if you need a jump,
the 1st set you connect your spare batteries together for 24v,
the 2nd set is to connect them to your truck for the jump.
I'm in Burlington NC I85/exit 245 if you need any help in that area. Sure hope not because you'll almost be home at that point! Break a leg!
Whistle-whistle-whistle...here boy...here Murp-y...leave the guy alone!
Take a pair of extra batteries with you...you can jump start yourself or...
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