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They are half ton axles. The truck is rated for 3/4 ton, just like the 1008s are rated for 5/4 ton, because the military rates them based on actual capacity rather than calling them "half ton" just because that's how we know them. Anyway, for off road use, I think you could do WAY better than...

I was referring more to the "in between" situations- not the street, not mud, somewhere in between when you're in 4WD but you don't necessarily want a locker (or any limited slip) in the front.

Having a front limited slip won't be good for steering, nor will it be great for tire wear. Air or electric lockers would be better solutions. Well, really, anything is better than a gov-bomb.

My buddy just got a 14bff for $350 from a junkyard. Granted, it's an open rear rather than the Detroit Locker in the M1008s, but it was cheap and has 3.21 gears- and for the street, the open rear is better than a locker. Taking both is a good idea, for the reasons you mention. I want to say...

Yeah, pretty much everything prewar (and for a bit of time post war) was 6v. Then the industry standard went to 12v, and the military, for a variety of reasons, went to 24v.

Well, yeah, some people aren't qualified to check their own oil levels, and should never, ever touch anything on any vehicle. But as far as mechanical work goes, setting the toe/steering wheel center on a CUCV is right there with changing oil or accessory drive belts.

Mine is currently off since I changed the drag link and didn't have time to adjust it, and I haven't found the time in the last week or so. It's easy to adjust. I don't know why the hell anybody would pay actual money for an alignment in these (or any other solid-axle applications) trucks. The...

Toyota (particularly in the case of the Tacoma) has taken a LOT of time to develop a good off-road truck. The entire 4WD driveline is overbuilt. There's a reason that the Taliban (among other, less well-known governments) uses Toyota trucks. There are plenty of places where axles can fail...

I'm planning to do something similar, but I'm keeping the 208 case and getting an SM465 trans. Even at $1300, which is really, really cheap for a 4500, it's $1000 more than I can get a 465 for locally. And the 465 bolts right in (as long as it's a 32 spline to match the 208 case). Overdrive...

Ah, didn't realize that's what you were looking for. One of them may be for brakes, isn't there a diagram in one of the manuals?

They do. In fact, those are the wires I used to tap into. Just have somebody step on the brakes (or jam the pedal with a stick) and poke around with a tester.

I just got a generic connector from an auto parts store and wired it in. I'm about cheap/easy solutions that work, I don't care much about anything else.

That has more to do with brakes and wheelbase than anything else. That and it has to fit into the Army's trailer fleet. So if the actual "maximum towed load" was, say, 1800, and there was no trailer to suit that, it would have to fall to whatever the heaviest trailer below the actual limit is...

Put a lunette ring on the trailer you'll be pulling.

Since it's 99% the same as a civilian truck, your local auto parts store is usually your best bet. For military-specific parts, any of the forum vendors are always a good bet. Or LMC Truck. Or any of the other GM parts sellers on the internet.

I just walked into an auto parts store, asked for the part for an '86 K30 with the J-code diesel, and the part that was produced was identical to the part that came off the truck. Actual construction wouldn't matter that much (holes vs. no holes) as long as it's basically the same. It's just how...

My truck is getting a 6500 Optimizer, most likely the naturally aspirated version, as soon as I have the funds to do so. For the interim, we picked up a $300 HMMWV takeout 6.2 as a spare to keep a truck going in a pinch. $4500 buys a NEW 2000-2008 model 6500 N/A, not much of a power boost...

Same basic idea, although white smoke on startup/cranking comes from unburned fuel in a diesel. And old diesels often blow clouds of black smoke, (well, sometimes grey or whatever) when pushed, and it's not a problem. Cool! If there's a question here I missed it. As for the muds being "like...

Before worrying about a rebuild kit, I'd worry about whether the block is rebuildable in the first place. I would also drop in a 6.5L long, long before I started putzing around with the 6.2, or just drop in a junkyard/surplus 6.2 replacement if money was tight.

My buddy's truck has a problem with occasionally vibrating apart the connections behind the switch, resulting in no lights. Luckily, the CUCV wiring is pretty simple, and the switch is in a pretty accessible place, so all you have to do is follow the wires. Best case scenario is that one just...