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The biggest problem is the severe backspacing of the HMMWV wheels, and of course the diameter of the tire in the square Chevy wheel wells.

Yeah, it's the same thing as the intermittent "water in fuel" lights that some people get. After a while you get junk on the probe (story of my life) and it gives intermittent errors.

Red Tops aren't deep cycle batteries, Yellow Tops are. Blue Tops are a hybrid. AGM batteries don't take kindly to improper charging, unfortunately. Also, many retailers keep the things on the shelf way too long, so the battery you're getting winds up being a year or two old (older in some cases)...

There's supposed to be one there, it must have gotten cannibalized. No biggie, though, it's a regular, off the shelf part that should be in any junkyard for not much money.

You guys do realize that there are different models of "red tops," right? I'm pretty sure he's asking for specific model numbers to look for. All one really needs to do, though, is go to a retailer that sells Optimas and ask for batteries for a K30, and I'm sure most if not all auto parts stores...

That would be insurance fraud. So the card is worthless. In many ways, worse than worthless.

Since the vacuum lines don't have anything to do with the engine intake system, unlike a gasoline motor, they would only affect the transmission, not the engine. There are a number of things that could cause hard starting, of course low compression is one of them. Just pick up a cheap tester...

I've seen lower-mileage examples of early cars selling in the $15-20,000 range, and by "lower mileage" I mean "basically never driven." Pointless in my opinion, I'd rather just drive the car. My current car I bought from the original owner about a year ago. It's got 165,000 miles on the car...

British Racing Green was only an option in 1991 and 2001 in the states. My current Miata is Blue, I had a red one for 3 years, but sold it after getting the current blue one.

I can't see any time in which a coolant filter would be of benefit. So long as the system is regularly flushed (I do all my vehicles annually, although that's overkill) and all the parts are in good working order, there should be nothing to filter out. If the coolant gets dirty, it's time to a)...

True, it's not like you'd need a shock on a 1-ton that's independently adjustable for bound and rebound...

Still- I'm used to a $30 shock being a 50,000 mile take-off, not anything new, a $50 shock being a no-name China junker, and a decent shock being a minimum of $80-$120 per corner, up to ~$500 per corner if really serious.

$50 shocks are overpriced? Sounds cheap to me, but I'm not all that familiar with the pricing of such things. I'm used to quotes upward of $150 per corner for good shocks.

Pretty much every auto trans vehicle I've ever dealt with has had a trans cooler built into the radiator. People here are discussing auxiliary fluid/air trans coolers. If you get one, better to get one that's thermostatically (or manually) controlled so you're not overcooling the trans all the...

Turbo, 3.08 gears, large load in truck with sizable trailer sounds like a recipe for a gov-bomb explosion.

Sigh. :D

Using a chain is poor form in any situation.

Yeah, I've read a lot of stuff like that, but when you're actually in the field, there are more than enough variables at work that nobody is going to sit there and try to figure out what's what. The important thing is that whatever the shackles and pintle hitch are "rated for," in practice...

Possible, but I've never really worried about it, as tow straps are usually the weak link in the recovery "system." Additionally, it's REALLY difficult to figure out exactly how much force is being applied to something in a situation like that- most of the truck's weight is supported by the...

Promise?