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I'm going with an inverter plus a home stereo.

The #2 may be making up for the difference by showing high, since it's grounding to the #1. When my buddy had a similar issue, the solution was another rebuild of the alternator. Personally I'd be tempted to toss a regular, non-isolated ground alternator on in the #1 spot. For some reason...

More details about your gauge setup would be useful. Do you have two gauges that show 12v (or thereabouts) each, or one that shows 12v for #1 and the other that shows 24v for #2? In other words, does the second gauge ground to the #1 or to chassis ground? I ask this because if there are two...

13 is fine. I think the Stant cap I got for my truck is 16. Doesn't really matter, I just grabbed what was on the shelf.

That's way more than I figured it would be, but I was planning to get one of the DIY kits anyway, since they're between $100 and $150.

Using the calculator above: Stock tires- 55mph RPM- 1836 65mph RPM- 2169 75mph RPM- 2503 Top speed: 101mph With 35s- 55mph RPM: 1626 65mph RPM: 1921 75mph RPM: 2117 Top speed: 114 Top speed figures are theoretical, I have no idea whether drag would come into play sooner than engine...

As a data point, my buddy was having a similar problem, but it wasn't the GEN lights coming on, it was the voltmeter showing low at idle. Alternators checked out OK on the test bench, for whatever reason, required disassembly to find the problem, and I don't remember what that was. I will say...

I ripped out the floormats. The last thing I need is for dirt to get under there and hold water to rust out the floor. Sooner or later I'll Rhino line it, maybe. Other than that, some touchup spray paint where/when necessary will do the trick. If replacement floor mats are desired, any junkyard...

Have fun: - Dirt Road Magazine - Gear Ratio Calculator - (dirtroad.com) No reason you can't cruise 65 with the stock tires.

Just replace it. Batteries go bad. If the other one checks out good, no reason to replace it. $120 or so buys a good 1000-1200CCA commercial battery, which is what I have. Since they're in series, the amperages will average in the circuit.

That would be my guess, if a regular auto parts store didn't have it, an auto glass specialty place would almost certainly have it.

NOS is going to be particularly tough. Most of the CUCVs that get parts taken off are dismantled for sake of keeping other ones running, because the military doesn't want to buy new parts, and the stocks are getting depleted, and for parts like wiring harnesses that can be easily fabricated, I...

Why is it that you feel the need to follow me around and crap on my posts? Just trying to prove yours is bigger? Try reading the first damn post I put in this thread, #3, where I suggested the MODIFICATION OF A STOCK HARNESS to the military spec. Or, yes, even the creation of a whole harness...

95% of the parts are available at your local auto parts store, just ask for Chevy K30 parts. OD Iron is commonly recommended for military-specific stuff, but I've never bought from them, so I don't know.

Don't get me wrong- it would NOT be an enjoyable process. :wink: However, if one is looking to learn/practice reading wiring diagrams and doing automotive wiring, these trucks are an ideal place to start/learn/practice. Anyhoo, I would help if I was in the area.

Mine sometimes does the same thing, but I know I have some slop in the linkage. When the truck was picked up, the 2/4 shifter was busted off, most likely from some genius yanking on it when the gears weren't lined up right to pull into 4 wheel. Replacement lever got it working again, but I've...

I would have refused to take delivery, since the item was not as advertised. But, since that didn't happen, you can try to hunt up an old harness, or find a base model Chevy K30 harness in a junkyard from about the same year with the same engine and modify it as necessary for the military...

Not really. The recommended order has more to do with containing arcs that may be generated when you are hooking them up. So long as the jumpers are insulated so they are only connected to one battery, and the "system" remains 12v, all is good, it's just a problem if you allow the 24v of the...

If the batteries are tied together, and one of the 12v vehicles (or battery chargers) connected to the 12-24v battery grounds to chassis by accident, bad things could result. by disconnecting the batteries, you remove that chance of something going wrong.

Taillight wiring isn't exactly complicated*. If the 20+ year old wires are having problems due to age, why would a junkyard replacement be much better? They're just wires. If you have replacement wires, you can "build" your own "harness" pretty quickly and easily. That's how they do it at the...