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Yeah, that would be ideal if possible. Unfortunately, it requires two other vehicles, and two sets of jumper cables, which may or may not be available when necessary. Yes, the alternator has to work harder than usual. It's usually not going to kill it too quick, though, unless it was already...

Buy two spools of wire for $5 each and replace/bypass as necessary. Realistically only one color is necessary, but it's nice to keep hot and ground different colors.

I've started my truck in warmish weather using one battery when my starter relay died. I would have used two, but I didn't have enough cable to manually jump both batteries to the starter. I've also jump started my truck when it was cold (single digits) with a 12v car. Connected to one battery...

Sigh. Yes, the military stuck stiffer springs on (I think) to squeeze out an extra 1/4 ton on the ratings. I don't know why. They did the same with the Blazers. But, the 1008s and their derivatives are K30, "1-ton" models. The whole "half ton," "3/4 ton" and "1-ton" nomenclature really doesn't...

I'll gladly take you up on that bet. The CUCVs predated the 1500/2500/3500 nomenclature. The 1008s are K30s. The 1009s are half ton, fullsize Blazers. The CUCVIIs were in the range for the later nomenclature, but as far as I know, they were still 1-ton trucks. One day I will figure out why all...

Personally I think your words are empty. You say on the one hand that it's his vehicle and he can do what he wants, but then on the other hand you disparage those who cut up the trucks. And do you honestly believe that a CUCV is analogous to a CCKW, in any manner at all? I mean, besides the fact...

1. If somebody wants to cut up a CUCV, a Deuce, a Ferrari Enzo, a Model T Ford, Stingray Corvette, or a limited edition whatever you want, I support them. Their money, their vehicle, and everybody else can stuff it. If somebody wants to preserve one, or several, they can put up their own money...

Guys, he said he doesn't want to chop it up. I think what he's trying to say is that he just doesn't really care about condition or whatever so long as the driveline is present and functioning. Yeesh. Otherwise it'd likely be easier for him to just yank the parts from any K30 or other truck in...

No, none of this really helps. A photo would be helpful. Whatever it is, it's not "normal." Try to trace it back and see where it leads to- one battery, both batteries, or whatever.

If he bought and paid for it, it's his business. If they didn't want it chopped up, they could have bought it themselves. Since they choose not to put up, they can shut up.

I borrowed one when I did my glow plugs, but didn't need it. The guy I bought it from had used it successfully.

FYI, I'd bet that the "pink" was really "red." Traditionally, in automotive wiring, red is hot, black is ground, and other colors are for other things, as is the case of this switch.

Says it has a 6.0L V8. So yes. Presumably an LS block.

Yeah, you can replace that one with any large-frame GM alternator. Just make sure you get one that's 100A or better (I think there's a 108, 100, and a lower one) because when wired in series, the amperages will average in the circuit, you'll want to keep them about the same.

Why not ask in the Deuce section? To the OP, the civilian truck calls for dual 550CCA batteries in parallel, and since a series setup would provide the same ultimate wattage to crank the truck- dual 550s should be fine. For better cranking, more reserve, etc., bigger batteries are better, of...

The glowplug light is a function of the glow plug card. Since you have a manual setup, ignore it. Or do what I did, pull out the card and the light never comes on. As for the WIF light, I get that sometimes. I'm pretty sure it's just the sensor. As far as I know it works by measuring the...

Helps a lot off-road for people like me who have left feet accustomed to only mindlessly stomping a clutch on and off, and have difficulty modulating the pressure on the brake pedal with our left feet. That said, it's as simple as re-routing the cable to the location of your choosing and...

Poke at the pedal with a broomstick. Don't laugh, it took a cut-off broomstick for Yeager to break the sound barrier.

Those are the actual amounts that the government paid when new. Inflation-adjusted values are a little less than double the original (posted) values.

The sticker on the hood of mine said the acquisition price was around $15,000- that's a basic M1008, nothing added. Some variants were more, some may have been less. Translating that to today's dollars, it would be around $28,500ish today, brand new. Edit- CUCVFAN types faster than I do. But...