Search results

Two rear interior repairs underway after rust proofing. I will add either self tapping screws or rivets before I seam seal , fill and paint. Used some stock steel from Lowes. Right one was tricky little booger.

82ABNMP I know I'm reviving but thoughts since I'm just getting around to it. Removing the rust from my 1009 I found not the entire rocker was rusted out. I removed the sections of rust until I found good hard steel. Treated with preservative, painted with primer. I've got the rockers and the...

Rust on the rockers were not near as bad as I thought. I got a 12inch sheet metal strip from Lowes I will use to patch those two spots in the rear. Gonna cut shimmey in from the bottom then Use glue, screws and seam seal it. I will then clean, and spray some undercoat underneath.

So my son and I have been sanding the big guy down but today I started cutting out the rusted areas. Plan is to not take out the rockers completely but to use the remaining good steel in the rockers and glue the new rockers over top of the old using the bonding glue, sheet metal screws and seam...

Trying to revive after a long wait. We've been busy and now my son is at the University of Kentucky as a freshman. Ordered rocker panels, seam sealer, rear light covers, new side markers, metal bonding glue, and RAPCO paint.

ironplanet.com has 1008 and 1009 for sale right now. Also look at Govdelas.com

I'm watching and like you, I'm not knocking out the dings/dangs from my (My Son's) M1009 aka Nebulous. It looks like a spotted ape right now as we are hitting the spots. Following your advice and taking our time as it looks like July/August will be our paint time.

Roger that, I'm pointing out the areas of special emphasis I want my son to sand (as he will do most of the work). I have a friend who is trying to get me near some CUCVs at an "un-disclosed" location so I can replace some parts before full paint. I have a cracked hood, gotta replace both rusty...

I do not believe that! :sad:

We try! Next project is to start sanding for paint.

Last year I replaced mine with one from National Parts Depot for less than LMC. Here is the link to my thread, had to use the clips from the original and slight mod but it's full rubber. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?144318-Nebulous-M1009/page9 held up very well..

Replaced rear drive shaft u-joint to stop the squealing and angry birds. Drives like a champ again...but my son has it driving to HS everyday. Amazing to hear people talk about that thing as we go into a store or restaurant. ****, one guy pulled along side us on the highway just to say thanks...

I see where one of you said 18 cans for a deuce and 10 cans for a M1008; I'm guessing about 12 for a M1009? Thoughts?

Where did you order it from? I got an M1009 and getting ready to repaint it green after the Son and I sand the **** out of it.

Yeah in this case I knew what it was but 30 years of crud and being stuck with rust made it difficult. I think we were fortunate it took only 4 hours.

Had to go buy a small torch and they came a oozing out. Took a drill and removed the remains in the hole. While it was hot I put some PB Blaster on it and then hit the tar out of it using a socket and a hammer. With the parts run it took me and my son about 4 hours. First photo is the old u...

There is no C clip on the other side; I've wrestled with this thing for an hour. Somewhere on the net they talk about a nylon pin we have to heat out?

We are going to get to it next weekend. Tomorrow and Tuesday we have commitments for college as my son received a ROTC and an academic scholarship to the University of Kentucky. He wants to take the CUCV with him so we have some work to do. I will let you know how it goes.

Nasty out there today so we will check it out tomorrow, and look for play at the rear diff.

Seemed okay when I shook it side to side. Was going to drop the rear shaft then place it in 4wd to see if it was maybe the transfer etc. I'm pretty sure the noise is at the rear shaft.