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Depends on what gears and tires you have, My truck has 3.0 gears on stock tires and running a 42 tooth gear puts the speedometer dead on. List the gearing on your differentials and what tires you are running and I am sure someone will chime in. Good luck

What your looking for is a Cannon Sure Seal Series connector Male P/N 120-8552-00 Female P/N 120-8551-00 and the pins are 3308672000 crimp pin and 0318703000 crimp socket. I have purchased them at several places like epay and www.newark.com happy hunting Randy Not that I am promoting any...

The nice thing about the switch is that anytime you need full power, like passing a car ( LOL) . it will kick the fan out and make the freed up HP available to the wheels.

If memory serves the switch is normally open so unplugging should work, I haven't tried it BUT look at it first. It's just a small micro switch on the side of your injector pump with a lever that pushes the switch when the throttle is pushed wide open. push the lever with your finger make sure...

Don't forget about the micro switch on the throttle lever, it's sole purpose is to kick the fan off when fording. if the switch sticks it will prevent the TDM from allowing the fan to come on.

Nice work, great attention to detail. I like it

Yep; We here in California have different problems -- Like -- never put ATF in your diesel fuel (like we use to do). Now we have what is called clear diesel and Red diesel the only difference is red diesel has red die in it and indicates for agricultural use only indicating that there was no...

Thanks for correcting me Coug, I was on a roll when I through out E85 and that was wrong. Our fuel stations out here have green stickers on the telling you the percentage of ethanol in the fuel, They usually say: suitable for all diesel engines or not to exceed 15% or not to exceed 20%. Also...

I have been in the tractor industry my whole life, all diesel all the time. Back when they went to low sulfur we saw most all of the rotary (round) injection pumps fail due to loss of lubrication. As time went on and we saw ultra low sulfur fuel that pretty much took out the rest. once the pumps...

I have found several references like the one listed below, the problem is all the references stop at M=2005. So if M=2005 and so on as listed below then S would = 2011 providing GEP did not skip (0) as they did (I). Not that it matters, Iam just curious. We should also bear in mind that...

I have researched this until I am droning in info and need someone to through me a line. I have a 6.5TD late model, 506, double diamond, 1/2" oil ports to the cooler, still has the drainage pipe for the valley, and a date code on the block of 06-08-S Is this June 8th 2011? in my research they...

To be honest, I haven't pushed mine hard enough in the desert yet that shocks have been a problem. The stock shocks have worked well for tooling around town and off road. I have not driven off road fast enough yet and worked the suspension hard enough to have any issues. Now if I put a ton or...

My M1123 is an extended capacity unit, swapped in a set of rear variable rate springs 12342616, 5360-01-357-2413. bolted right in with vary little to no change in ride height. I left the front springs alone. rides much better now. I run around unloaded most of the time and with no weight in the...

update What your looking for is a Cannon Sure Seal Series connector Male P/N 120-8552-00 Female P/N 120-8551-00 and the pins are 3308672000 crimp pin and 0318703000 crimp socket. I have purchased them at several places like epay and www.newark.com happy hunting Randy Not that I am promoting...

I can help with #2, When I had mine aligned I had the tech enter a 94 Hummer H1. they still used shims newer than that they went to cams. Randy

If the hiss goes away when the fan kicks in, Which is normal then it's the Cadillac valve (excuse the spelling) mounted right next to the windshield washer tank. You can make that go away by loosening the hose clamp around the body of the valve and slip a piece of rubber under it and tighten the...

I am sorry, I meant automotive jumper cables used for jumping cars with dead batteries. 2 cables with quick clamps on both ends. I always have a set with me on the trail and have come in handy in many situations. In this case to jump around a section of cable that may have a bad connection in it.

The way I check this type of problem on the trail, may be applicable here is. take your jumper cables hook the red clamp to the positive post on your front battery - take the other end and hook it to the positive post on the starter and try it (your simply bypassing that section of wiring). if...

OK found the cast pan in stock at https://yourcovers.com/transpan_9437.php for $260 or search (PML 9437 pan) for more options. This pan does not hang down far enough to be a problem and fit my M1123 like a glove. good luck with your leak.

I went with this pan, cast aluminum deep sump with drain plug, fit great - slight mod to linkage on left side to accommodate the thicker flange on the cast pan. CT powertrain Products 34-4L8-840A-Deep cost was $250.00 ctpowertrain.com 1-888-828-7697 I ordered mine on-line but it shows...