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Call Memphis equipment and ask to speak with John at the parts counter. He likely will not have the tranny you are looking for but you need to get to know him and get into the computer there. Go ahead and order at least six pinion seals for your input and output drive shaft connections to the...
On my truck the right side boot zipper is toward the rear and the left side boot zipper is toward the front. I don't get any interference with the steering stop bolt.
Bottleworks, looking at your avatar it looks like that truck may have been at Ft Gillem? Those are good trucks and the GL site managers are good guys there two. Glad to here you had a good experience at Ft Gillem. Way better than mine but I still wound up with a good truck. If it's not...
I don't know if what I am thinking of doing is good or bad. Also not sure if I am just masking a bigger problem. Here's the deal. My draft tube emits a little smoke (Exhaust) when I first crank it up. More specifically it always emits SOME exhaust but more when I first crank it up. Nothing...
I Changed the output shaft seal on the front rear axle and the input shaft seal on the last rear axle yesterday. The second or last axle went pretty smooth. I thought it would be the more difficult of the two. Negative.... The front rear was a challenge. The nut on the pinion shaft that...
Devilman, I had the same deal at Memphis on the fax and e-mail request for parts. If you don't call em you don't hear from them. Oh well, John on the parts counter has been pretty cool and helpful. He will sell you anything you ask for but is also pretty good with advice. Like if you...
This is a good thread for me too. I recently replaced the seals in the passenger front side axle. Crane truck has all the good info and was nice enough to share an article he did on the procedure. I put about three tubes in the knuckle or axle end housing before I replaced the spindle. I...
Correction, The Lucas I am using is not synthetic. It is petroleum based and is recommended for MV's. It is the Lucus oil stabilizer. I am running it 50/50 with 80W-90 gear oil. So it should be fine.
I have used Lucus Heavy Duty synthetic in my diffs and am planning on using in my T-Case. Based on what I am seeing above maybe this is not a good idea. Anyone have any feedback on Lucas products?
here's the trick. Just loosen the brake handle spinny adjuster thing on top so that the nut on the side of the handle bar is about 3/4 of the way or just a bit more toward the bottom. Then release the handle. (put it in the down position). Then climb up under the truck. There should be two...
She said I could bid on it. I bid on it and won. Then she got mad. Then I had trouble getting it home. Then we were both mad. Then it started running good and being in the Christmas parade and pulling trees out of the front yard and hauling in free flag stone and she was ok with it. Then...
You know now that you mention it you could do these seals without pulling the housing. Also, I really like the idea of putting in two seals. There actually is enough of a lip left to get another one in behind the first one. It would then be a "Super Seal". I am going to try this as I still...
I've been changing seals like crazy lately. I changed the same seal this weekend, only it was the input shaft for the first rear axle. The one behind the T-case. It's a snap and will be even easier for you because you don't have to take off a drive shaft. Just slip out the cotter pin...
If you look at Cranetrucks handbrake.jpg picture where it says Step 1 adj outer shoe. On mine there is a small hole through the arm about where the line bisects in the picture. Through that hole is a cotter pin. The loop on the end of the cotter pin is on the outside (toward the frame rail)...
The spring is not that big of a deal. I replaced the rear output seal on my T-case today so I have fresh info on the emergency break. There are two springs. The return spring and a stablizer spring that pulls the other direction. The return spring is not a super strong spring but it is "Semi...
I have a new CD with A LOT of TM's on it. It's not from RDM though (not sure what that is). Anyway, I'll be happy to share/add to the site. Would this help? I could spend some time on it this weekend.
On the air cylinder. I am looking at the TM 9-2520-246-34-1 on Page 2-143 and 2-174. This look like a pretty simple deal. There are only about 5 major components. It looks like its probably the air tube or the piston in the air tube. The TM says that you should check for pitting, rusting...