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i got my last gl m1008 at camp beauregard in la. it had been under water in new orleans before i got it. the young sgt got stuck trying to get my truck out with the big fork lift they use. while he was gone to get his boss, i took my then straight drive shaft out of the truck before he got back...
before you pull the pump altogether pull the fuel shutoff, search the other posts addressing this, i think it can be replaced from the top. might save you some work.
in 84 i think the only metric on the top was the 15mm bolt on the alt ? good thing 14mm can sub for 9/16, and 13mm for 1/2. back then i had no metric stuff at all.
just fyi
the lift pump has a check valve thats supposed to keep fuel from running back down to the tank,
i had the same problem on a civilian 6.2, pulled my hair out till i found that the rubber line from the tank on the bottom of the lift pump was rubbing the cross member of the frame , making...
sorry we couldnt help you find the problem, you will need a 9/16 box wrench that has a crook in it for the bottom ip bolt, maybe FMJ has it. if you have a way to heat up a standard wrench you can make one. also when the pump comes out make sure you watch the cup seals and their position. good...
gm trucks had vin's that identified them as a military truck. example from my truck at left . 1gchd34jxefxxxxxx. the 5th character, d ,identifies it as military. the same civilian truck would be a k for 4x4 in the 5th position.
also just fyi the h in the 4th position indicates the brake system...
the transfer case sounds like the problem. the np 208's have an aluminum case , are light and easy to remove. if you have the ability you can split them apart and fix them, usually the shifting fork wears and wont keep them locked in the right range. common problem. good luck
after update...
pull the 6 8mm bolts that hold the regulator on top of the alternator, pull it straight up, see what position the lug is in. lo-med-hi. move it around and see if anything changes with out put. if you can determine that the regulator itself is bad it can be replaced. thanks
ive never seen an ip fuel solinoid go bad. its at the top of the pump with 4 screws where the power goes in. i have a core i can take apart and see how they work if someone else doesnt chime in and give you a hand. thanks. mark
somebody did away with the original system that truck had. originally the top alternator charged the front battery and the bottom alt charged the back. the front ran the truck, the back just the starter the way i understand it. i think they must be using one 24v alternator to charge the two...
you have 1028 with 24 v ambulance charging system with duvac. search the word and you will get lots of hits.
i have a ambulance with the same charging system. this is what i would do first. measure voltage at each battery when running. front battery usually has the problem. should be 13.8 to...
i agree, its the thermostat. do you have heat in the cab? put your hand on the heater hoses after running for a while . correct temp and you wont be able to hold them for more than 5 seconds.
radiator cap is usually good if it pulls coolant back in from overflow bottle when cooling.
if you just drove 2200 miles i cant believe the pump just up and quit. you have 12v power with the key at the top of pump? right. take a 10 mm deep socket, pull a couple glow plugs out and heat them up . put 12v on the blade and ground the body, you will see right away if they are good. if good...