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No. Either new rear leaf springs or a shackle flip. If you're that worried about the axle wrap nothing will get rid of it short of some sort of a link system or traction bar.

Eh, every leaf spring does it...just depends on the springs, their condition, the vehicle, the suspension setup, how much power the engine makes and how much of that gets to the wheels, the tires, the terrain, etc etc etc. With the CUCV pickups it's mainly a factor of low rpm torquey engine...

If you used a newer GM truck bench seat the belt would be integrated into the seat. Would want to considerably beef up the floor mounts though.

Because it's their truck and they can do what they want with it? Seriously, who cares. It won't drive any worse than any high GVWR Chevy K30 of the era.

Sounds like axle wrap. Feel like the back end is almost torquing and then slamming back into the right position? That's because it is. Leaf springs do this when they're giving before the tires can transfer the traction to the ground.

Been done lots of time. Just a lot of us prefer regular bench seats in the back for max capacity. We were just talking about seating over on CK5.

Big Ugly has a stick on push LED light setup like others have mentioned. Works great except for when your truck is sitting outside in 100 degree weather and the glue holding the velcro on gives up the fight. Need to fix that but I'll be doing the same thing. If I were doing it in a M1009...

Why? Really heavy and need REALLY heavy, large wheels? My 11.00R16's are around 130lbs apiece on the wheels.

Ironic. "No front axle but we have a Ma Deuce!"

Yet it's 2wd...wtf?

I'll just eliminate them altogether. I don't want the switch back or need the function. Ditched my BO lights and IR light years ago. Going to use the space for some offroad light switches actually.

Yeah, that's the hiccup. I think what I'm going to see if he'll do is spray the backsides of the rockers and that most vulnerable part under the foot wells and rear seat foot well at the step. The rest I'm not terribly worried about for now.

I'm more worried about underneath. Winter's much less severe here so I'm not so worried about the rust in the easily accessible places...and we all know how these things rust out from the bottom up.

Just to be sure, those are the wires for the switches, correct?

When my buddy built his Scout he took it entirely apart and lined the frame and undersides and interior. I've got crazy thoughts about something similar...

Whatever you say chief.

The CUCV wheel is the rally wheel.

WRONG. Some dealers can get them if they check the dealer system and look outside their area if no one locally has them. A few guys got them that way as little as a year ago. I bought one of those NAPA parts a few years ago and it was far smaller and the inlet/outlet tubes were the wrong...

You want a 15x8 steel rally wheel. Only difference between the civilian version and the CUCV version was CARC paint and no fancy Chrome trim ring or center cap. Don't let someone tell you they're worth money either, I sold four for $25 last fall after months of trying to sell them.

Nothing, but it's a completely different animal when compared to the commercially applied spray on liners like Rhino Liner, Line-X, Speed Liner, Al's Liner, etc. I've had several Rhino Liners and done Herculiner on a vehicle I owned. Both have their places and both have their uses but they are...