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A few pictures of my simple winter front. Did a great job warming the engine and me this winter. Not to Restricted, still could do any highway speeds.

Check your fuel tank vent hose, did mine yesterday. Located under the spare, you can get to it from the bed of the truck. Mine was plugged tight. Remove the hose from the top tank fitting try to blow thru it.. M1078

Cool thanks a lot!

Looking for a diagram on the hi idle switch or idle up switch. Mine stopped working. I have 4.8 volts on one side of the switch?? Switch is good. Thank you!

A lot of very helpful and knowledgeable people on here! Enjoy your 1078. Love mine!

The short of it is these hubs replace the outer reduction 2:1 with 1:1 direct drive. Reducing engine rpm by 50%. Increasing fuel mileage. Reduces noise in cab dramatically! Making you new to you M1078 much more drivable and fun!

Got the hubs back from heat treat today, look great! Bead blasted and off to EDM tomorrow morning!

Getting closer, hubs due back from heat treat today. Dropped off 48 drive plates at the cnc shop today for drill and tap. More updates soon!

Worked in the home shop last evening. Machining the OD of adapter plates, and welding inner and outer plates together . Finished 48 pieces…. Dropped the plates to CNC, this morning for drill tap.. The heat treat on the hubs are due back today, (over a week at heat treat). They get washed and...

Good to know, I can’t imagine how much it would pull in low range!

Did some more experimenting today, tapped in to the crank sensor wiring . Did get a frequency reading, however the tach didn’t like it. Went back to the ac on the alternator. Works as long as the dash light are on. Will check out the ecu pins when I get more time. Might be the best way.

Did some more testing today. I don’t know if everyone but me knows how to enter low range in mode. On my truck you push mode, then use the down arrows to select 1st. At that point you feel a shift. Much lower than the default starting gear in mode. The speeds I got were: 6mph at 1350...

The tach settings were set at 15. The jury is still out though, I drove the truck today and the tach was fluctuating some Almost like a bad ground? Funny thing when I turned on the dash lights it’s works good. Will keep you informed.

Yes checked the truck today seems I only have the polarity protection device. Yes inboard of the spare.

I haven’t had mine reprogrammed as of yet, I would like to. That would fix the speedometer reading half of what it should. I would like to bring the shifts down 200 or 300 rpm. That would be nice. Short answer no not required.

I will look to see if I have that?? I did see the polarity protection device. Got to check the lugs on that today make sure they are tight And clean. This truck doesn’t have master shutoff switches or any kind of outside start switch. Will post the tach settings I used.

LBCD, low battery cut off?? I have an open ac terminal on the regulator? Ok so todays monkey work. I took the ac terminal as a tach signal . Used a 1 amp glass fuse in-line and wired it to the tach. Used my scanner hooked to the diagnostics plug and monitored rpm. I entered off set...

Yes trying to add tach, should have purchased the j1939. I don’t have any connections to the ac post on the alternator?

Ok I’ve spent hours looking for a specific diagram for tach hook up. I don’t really want to tap the alternator. Where can I get the signal from to crank sensor ? Inside the cab??? This is an 2001 A1. The A0 seems pretty straightforward. Thanks. Mike

The outside caps are aluminium, they have apx. 3/8” step that goes into the drive hub. Pretty durable design. The Allen bolts only Hold the two pieces from separating, the step takes any side load or impact. The drive hubs are 4140 heat treated steel..