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The idea of this thread was for people to post succinct complete answers to questions like this... typically after they did a search for the info or posted their question and got a bunch of answers.
That said: Do a search... you'll find a ton of info the different glow plugs. The AC60G's are...
Thanks for the kind words.... but there wouldn't been any thread like this if I didn't have a good friend like Shade_Tree who pitches in and gets it done. He just helped me bypass a mech pump on a civie truck today!
Shade_tree doesn't talk much... and posts even less. :wink:
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looks like you got the '84 six lug that I've only read about... Why not just buy the 4 lug hub nut system and retrofit it... you could buy the warn like I did, and there are others out there...
I swapped in LEDs to the 4x4 and oil lights, along with the water in fuel and wait light... but the rest are on dimmers and LED's don't like dimmers... or like other posters have stated the GEN lights must remain incadecent inorder for the alternator to come on line....
I might try the clean...
if u did the 12v conversion, then you don't need the starter relay... you can jump the wire that runs to the starter solenoid of your new 12v starter directly to the ignition switch... just like a civitruck is.
you can add a doghead relay if you'd like but it un-necessarily complicates the...
I have bent one tab of the fuse up, and the other down on a couple fuses to get them to make contact...m I've also taken a small knife and rubbed some of the oxidization off to bare metal on them too... but now it still sometimes kills the lights and just a light pressure on a random spot on...
I'm having a similiar problem in my M1009... did you dissassemble your fuse panel?
I won't have any lights, but if I push just a bit in the right spot on the panel (the right spot always seems to move) I'll get them back... sometimes my lights work just fine, but the blinkers wont.. but same...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/48444-electric-fuel-pump-install-2.html
I'd suggest you read the entire thread above... lots of info on this modification there.
I used an Airtex - Diesel Electric Fuel Pump Kit, Part Number: E8153 $60 on two 6.2's... got it at Advanced auto... most of the...
didn't try the dealler... good suggestion.
When my TH-400 goes I hope to pull of a 700r4 swap... but until then I'm going to keep fixing the small things and keep it rolling!
Thanks for the replies... but like I said, once the vacuum leak was tracked down and taken care of the tranny shifts fine now... just like my civi 87 suburban with a 6.2 and a TH400...
The thing I'm looking for is the square-ish rubber conector that keeps you from crossing the lines.
Not a...
FWI... my trans was doing the exact same thing as the original post... I found a vacuum line disconnected and coiled up (it was how I got it from GL) once I connected it it shifted great...
Now is just started acting up again. tracked it down to the squarish rubber thing (#9 in TM image...
You probably already know this.... but I'm going to post it anyways... Remember you only need to do the doghead on a truck with the standard 24v starter.... if yours has been converted to 12v, you don't need a new relay... you can just bypass it as it is how the stock 12v ignition switch...
Sorry but I think You are a bit confused and misleading... you'd need two different 12v sources to jump both batteries simultaneously.
You didn't need to move any batteries....
The way to 'jump' a cucv with two dead batteries and only one 12v car would be to put 12 volts to one dead battery...
I have the ryobi set with the lithium batteries... it did just fine on small remote jobs... if I needed more I hauled a genny and ran the bigger tools off it.
I have a finish nailer and a framing nailer that run on butane cells that work wonderfully when working away from AC power or a gas air compressor.... an aircompressor would be a huge draw... once you illminate that, most power tools could be rechargeables that could be charged elsewhere or...