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Tag & Title on Buck Jones Rd EDITED: I always pay the $100 for the instant title option so I walk out same day w/ title in hand.

I went ahead and ordered a set of pump wrenches. Thanks for the insight, guys.

This might be a big ask, but would someone be willing to post a picture of the setup they use to get at the lower injection pump mounting bolt on a turbo engine? I've been trying for hours with every combination of swivel/u-joint socket and extension that I've got, but can't quite get the socket...

I'm far from an expert, but I've bought and sold a few HMMWVs and $10k sounds like a suspiciously good deal. I'm not familiar with the Idaho market, but that truck (based on your description) would sell for close to double that around where I'm at, and most other places I've seen. Smoking...

Check that your throttle lock lever isn't engaged.

I agree. It's a lot closer to "driving through the brakes", than "dragging the brake" - at least on the few humvees I've owned. But done right, they'll crawl through more places than you'd expect them too.

The normal hockey stick, center and lower windshield retainers work fine. You just need to drill holes and install rivnuts, using the retainers as templates. Normal mirror brackets also work fine, I just had to drill and rivnut those too.

Yep. Be prepared to install a ton of rivnuts...

Before and after

Operation: Co-Pilot Traction Enhancement... Made a template. Transferred it to a horse stall mat. Cut it out w/ a jigsaw. Beveled the edges w/ a router round-over bit. Installed. Fit like a glove. Co-pilot approved.

84" even on my m1165 to tip of exhaust. Unsure of cargo bows.

Likewise on my 2004 M1123

I thought I'd post my experience in case it helps anyone else... M1114 with 6.5 turbo would run start and run just fine, but if I'd rev it up and quickly get out of the throttle, it'd die instantly. Never had any trouble or even hesitation restarting. If I'd rev it up but slowly get out of...

You definitely need to address the shorting problem, that's your root cause. Additionally, $400 is less than half of what I'd expect to pay for a replacement regulator, so if you're truly only paying that much for them, I suspect it's potentially an aftermarket part that might not have as...

More info in this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tachometer-inaccurate.205431/

I was over thinking it. I measured everything with the 400a still mounted in the truck and the 200a not installed. They do not align perfectly and I was worried about the rear bracket not sitting flush and side loading the alternator tab. I talked to Steve at RWH and he assured me it all...

The spacer fits perfectly. The problem is that the rear support bracket (pn 12460273 - #4 in the parts diagram) aligns perfectly with the rear alternator mounting tab. I'm seeing exactly what this sketch shows. Dumb question... but is the rear support bracket actually needed when installing a...

Well... I got my 3/4" spacer, 200a rear support bracket (pn 12460273), and the 7/16" bolt, so I thought I was good to go. I pulled the 400a out of my m1165 and tried to install the 200a. I found that even with the 200a rear support bracket installed, that rear support bracket still lines up...

Between fighting the flu, Thanksgiving holidays and the rest of normal life, it took me a while to get back to this one, but I did want to close the loop on my issue... I found my AC VR had failed, and in doing so, blew the fuse mod fuse - thus the reason for step "j" of the AC VR test failing...

This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! I somehow misunderstood the need for the 200a bracket, so now things make a lot more sense. Regarding the cables, that was my understanding as well - basically both cables that connect to the rear of the 400a are not needed and get completely...